1973 Dodge Charger buying help!

[Axels73Charger]

What a pain in the ass! Well I started to think. I can probably get a rallye dash, then if I really want I can get the power boldge hood and all the other stuff it had... So heres a new question! As stated before the 3rd generation Charger like the 73 I want isnt a preformance car so (if you havent guessed im still a noobie with everything BUT the engine) How can I make a 73 into a preformance type of car?

[Nacho-RT74]

performance car ?

just getting some VITAMINS to the engine and suspension and done! 73 and later cars already have good brakes for a stock car being front disc from factory in all models, but you can get them better too.

Then some extras will be SG, 3.55 gear ratio as minimun

everything depends on the car you initally gets

Rallye dash? bulged hood ?. That doesn't make performance, just a performance LOOKS

[Axels73Charger]

Oh well that helps alot! I have no idea why they had a damn power buldge hood! And the Rallye dash is for the extra 30mph on the speedometer. 150mph vs the standards 120mph. I was just wondering all this cause I fell in love with the General Lee which is a 69 Charger but there so damn expensive not to mention hard to find! And then Burn Notice came along and (this is what I think I) it looks like a 69 Charger. Then I found out they are cheaper so thats why I picked it! I later found out it isnt a performance car like the 69 Chargers so I kinda was wondering.

[bordin34]

Burn Notice is a 73/74 Charger.

[Axels73Charger]

OK heres a quick question whats the difference between a 73 and a 74? People keep doing the 73/74 thing and im getting confused! But what Im getting from it is that there the same just different years?

[alcusswhen]

I am looking for Both a driveable car and a restore. I figure get a restore (engine wise i dont care about). Body Is the one thing I would like to by pass because Thats a lot for me to do, plus i havent taken a metals class yet... Engines are the things i really care about in the care! If I need to take the thing apart and fix it then I'm all for it! I really like engine work. I just want a general price range that gives me an idea for what im looking at. So if 1500 is going to be alot of work then im ok with that. Seeing 2500 is the most i can get in a summer minus small jobs. Now the big thing about getting a Restore project car is that I will be spending a good amout of time on the car and less time doing stupid things that might get me into trouble. If the price range I said is more for restores then thats a lot of help to me! Thanks for the info and hopefully i've made my self a little more clear on what I was saying.

My 73 SE is a one owner garage kept zero rust car. I do all of my own work from making seat covers to building power trains. Over 3 years it cost me over $12,000 in parts and supplies to restore it. One thing to keep in mind you can bore a 318 to a 340 bore or 30 over a 340 bore, thye blocks used the same molds when cast.

[Axels73Charger]

My new thought was to get a 340 crankshaft and just use that to make it a 340. Well if I can find one I mean...

[Axels73Charger]

So heres a small update. Ive been reading alot and I now know how to do more on a project car. Ive also read up on the 1973 and 1974 and how there almost the same... ALMOST. I am going to work at my fathers office and might be able to get about $500 to $600 by june. I figure this is a good start. If i get more hours I'll get more cash but right now that doesnt look like itll happen.
So what do you guys think? Does it matter if I get a 1973 Charger or a 1974 Charger?

[71383bee]

My new thought was to get a 340 crankshaft and just use that to make it a 340. Well if I can find one I mean...

The 340 crank will not make your 318 a 340.  The stroke is the same on all of the LA small blocks so swapping cranks won't gain you anything.  The bore is what is different between the 340 and 318 blocks. 

You can stroke the 318, but the killer is the heads.  IF you stroke it you can get a better set of heads from a 340 or 360 or better yet use aftermarket.  Building the small blocks is a plus because everything in the engine bay will still connect right up...no worries about pulleys, accessories, exhaust, cooling, wiring, etc. 

[Axels73Charger]

Well dont i sound stupid huh? It was something my engines teacher said but maybe i just didnt remeber it right. So boring it would be something to think about but thats expensive... New headers are too but they might be cheaper then buying to get it bored over size.