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Upgrading to 60 amp alternator- risk frying anything?

Started by YGBSM, March 31, 2010, 11:00:09 AM

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YGBSM

Hi guys- I have read some of Nacho's threads but I'm still thoroughly confused.  Electrical systems are a black art to me.
I have a '68 R/T with A/C, cheap low power stereo.  I will be adding an electric fuel pump because I'm relocating the A/C compressor with Bouchillion's kit.

The car has pretty much stock wiring, with ammeter and stock charging system.  It is fairly reliable but seems taxed, especially at idle.

In the interests of reliability (and down the road I would like to put in a Ipod-compatible stereo head unit), I was thinking about upgrading to a 50/60 amp alternator, internally regulated.  I figure getting rid of the external regulator would improve reliability right?

IF I do this, what other changes to the electrical system would be required so I don't fry anything? 

If this topic has been discussed before, I apologize- just point me to some links and I'll read up. 
'68 Charger R/T, numbers matching 440/727
Now with Hensley 496 stroker and Keisler 4-speed auto

Nacho-RT74

hi! IMHO, depending if you want to keep stock alt or not what is totally posible to keep working with the alt upgrade.

BTW I would add more alts amp... on 80 amps rate and you'll notice the difference BIG IMPROVEMENT!... nothing wrong with 60 amps though what In fact I'm using with halogens and AC, but still searching a little bit more specially because as a driver and being on a tropical contry, the AC is allmost a demand. Blower is what sucks more power on the car

More amps coming from alt, more safe the ammeter will be since system won't suck power from batt, so never will be running through the ammeter... as far you hook everything on alt side of course.

By default, the ammeter works like a Valve... NOTE: is not a valve, but the resistance what provides to the system by default, makes it work like a valve. So for a while more power is on alt side and KEEPS on that side, Ammeter won't ever register any load on it, coming from batt so will keep cool and safe. Unless Alternator is not able to feed the complete system. Is not a problem the ammeter registering some light discharge, is pretty much normal, just that keep away from that as far as posible is what will keep safer everything.

Lot of good readings here ( I guess you read just the last one what it was floated out recently )

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,62772.0.html

that thread is like a compilation about everything discused.

Internal or external regulator... well is not really the regulator location, is more about the quality of alternator although is true an internal regulated alt will mean some imporvement a little bit the alt response, due less wires involved on. However you can make work the stock system like a champ.

So try to make a detailed reading, watching at the diagrams and will understand all the "black art" on this LOL.

Remarking everything... keeping ammeter and being all the stock wiring and terminals in good conditions, will require parallel wires without need to remove what the car has still working. You can keep your stock parts and add the extra to not modify anything.

If the system was already damaged, wires and terminals, you can replace the stock wires coming from alt and batt with thicker wires in the place of the stock one, replace with better quality terminas at bulkhead, or running wires through bulkhead, and remake the main splice with this thicker wire susbtitution...

Lot of options. everything depending on your car actual conditions.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html