Trying to replace my rear main seal, proceedure questions...

[russg]

After getting billed $700 to have my local shop swap out my torque converter (unfortunately my new torque con did not mate up with the flex plate on the car so they had to pull the tranny twice  ) I'm now way low on car funds so I'm going to try and replace the rear main seal myself.  I have a 3rd gen with 383.  Looks like to drop the pan I need to take out the steering bar running underneath it, I assume just rent a pickle fork and bang that long bar out of there?  It's attached with four bolts unfortunately.  Next, with all pan bolts removed, will it just slide out from b/t the engine and K member or am I looking at having to move the engine to do this?

[Challenger340]

Hi Russ
You are probably also, going to have to undo the Motor Mounts, and anything else in the way of the Engine "lifting", ie; Fan Shroud, etc., then Jack the Engine up to gain Clearance.

Once the Engine is "up" I usually insert a 2X4 on each side, between the Mount and K Member saddle, for the Engine to "sit on" when lowered for safety, in the raised position.

Careful doing the Seal, as if you didn't know that already !

I've had good luck, and an easier time of it, usually by un cracking or "loosening" the other Main Caps, as well as the #5 to change the Seal. Seems to just make getting the upper half out easier.
It's a NO FUN kinda job, but nice when done with no more "puddles" underneath when parked.
Good Luck with it.

ps; NEVER use a rope seal, ALWAYS use the 2 piece pre-formed Neoprene

[russg]

Thanks Challenger.. what is the best spot to jack the motor from the bottom?  Just to be sure, there are only two mounts up front correct?

[TylerCharger69]

I recommend lifting it from the top.  And I posted this in another post  (timeframe for torque converter and rear main seal) People sometimes forget that when changing the rear main seal....there are two square "sticks" that slide on each side of the main cap assembly itself....Sometimes that is where a leak is and should be changed out too.  Dont forget..not only are you trying to gain clearance from the center link...but also from the oil pickup tube assembly...If you have a windage tray, that will make things a bit tighter too.  And...as Challenger340 said...use the two piece neoprene...rope seals suck.  Yes the torque converter you ordered requires the smaller flex plate.  I have an extra one here if you are interested.

[TylerCharger69]

okay...here are some pics  (a little blurry) but you get the idea....The first pic is the seal cap as you would look at it installed on the engine found just behind number 5 main cap and is a lightweight cast piece...this is where the oil pan gasket mates to it...after the gasket material is removed...there are two 12 point bolts that are recessed, and have a 3/8 head.  Those are what allows you to remove that seal cap.  The second pic shows the side of that cap....these are where those two "sticks" go.  Those must be replaced or it WILL leak!!  A little silicone on both sides helps seal the deal.  Make sure you clean the main seal groove really good!!  It's a task getting up inside the top portion, but take your time.  A bit of silicone on the outsides of the seal itself wouldn't hurt.   Hope this helps.

[russg]

Thanks Tyler, The torque converter is already done.. had to run to NAPA in a pinch as the car was on the lift at the shop running up time

[TylerCharger69]

They had it in stock???  Wow....you lucked out!!!  What was the cost of it?   

[russg]

Flex Plate ran about $13 or so.  I live near one of Napa's regional warehouses with a store up front so they pretty much have everything I've ever needed in the back.

[NMike]

alittle tip, make the parting surfaces higher/lower than the seal housing parting lines. don't have them all line up, guarantee that it will leak.

[russg]

Well, just finished most of the job.  The seal is on, pan is back on and engine is back down on its mounts.  Couple concerns but we'll drop oil in it tomorrow and see what happens, I think I'll leave the steering linkage off till I see how it goes.  the old seal was split quite a bit and the side seals were hard as a rock. 
My concerns are that I tried to leave the seal just a bit offset so the 2 matting ends were not quite dead even with the cap mating surface as some suggested but when your putting the cap on with the seal in it, you just don't know if it found its right place in the slot where the top half of the crank is, the bolts went right in so I'm hoping all is well.  Also when your pushing the seal cap up into place, the side seals don't want to move with the cap very well, I got them in as close as possible after a few tries but they are not quite dead even with the bottom of the cap, I mean only a fraction off, I did put some extra sealer up top and some around the bottom seal where it sits in the cap.  I hope it works.. I really don't want to have to redo anything!  I'm also worried about the old pan sealing up

[1969chargerrtse]

Well, just finished most of the job. The seal is on, pan is back on and engine is back down on its mounts. Couple concerns but we'll drop oil in it tomorrow and see what happens, I think I'll leave the steering linkage off till I see how it goes. the old seal was split quite a bit and the side seals were hard as a rock.  
My concerns are that I tried to leave the seal just a bit offset so the 2 matting ends were not quite dead even with the cap mating surface as some suggested but when your putting the cap on with the seal in it, you just don't know if it found its right place in the slot where the top half of the crank is, the bolts went right in so I'm hoping all is well. Also when your pushing the seal cap up into place, the side seals don't want to move with the cap very well, I got them in as close as possible after a few tries but they are not quite dead even with the bottom of the cap, I mean only a fraction off, I did put some extra sealer up top and some around the bottom seal where it sits in the cap.  I hope it works.. I really don't want to have to redo anything! I'm also worried about the old pan sealing up

Wow, those are all my worries.  I was wondering about the offset seals and how will I know if the cap accepts the seal hanging down a bit, as I put the cap up on crank side, will it just slip in the cap? Get back soon, I'm doing mine this week also. What did you use for sealer goop?  
I also am going to leave the car on jacks and the steering link off until I'm sure I'm drip free.  What seals did you use?  I bought the neoprene from Mancini.

[russg]

Oil in, started up and so far drip free!!  Hooked up the steering linkage and drove around the block, then a 10 mile drive and so far it's no longer leaving it's mark.  For sealer, I just used some black RTV gasket sealer I had, don't know if there would be something more fitting for this application.  I also used the 2 piece seal kit from Mancini.  I only offset the seal about a 1/4 inch so if it had trouble finding the slot than hopefully the 2 pieces would push each other to the middle without causing any damage (hope your understanding what I mean)  I also put RTV on the ends of the seal where the two would meet each other.  The more I think about it if I did it again I would probably just line em up dead even and take my chances as I think it would be near impossible not being able to see the final result that the protruding seal would actually find the slot it was supposed to go into and risk damaging the seal and having to do the darn thing all over again.   I had success raising the engine from the bottom by placing a board on top of my jack, no pan damage.  I took my time (as this was all new to me) putting the car up Friday night, working a little here and there and finishing today.  I could do this so much quicker next time but it was my first time unbolting the engine and everything else.  Rear main seal cap is torqued to 30 ft lbs, the rear crankshaft cap is 85 ft lbs.. don't forget to tighten the crank cap back up before you put the seal cap on

[1969chargerrtse]

Oil in, started up and so far drip free!! Hooked up the steering linkage and drove around the block, then a 10 mile drive and so far it's no longer leaving it's mark. For sealer, I just used some black RTV gasket sealer I had, don't know if there would be something more fitting for this application.  I also used the 2 piece seal kit from Mancini.  I only offset the seal about a 1/4 inch so if it had trouble finding the slot than hopefully the 2 pieces would push each other to the middle without causing any damage (hope your understanding what I mean)  I also put RTV on the ends of the seal where the two would meet each other. The more I think about it if I did it again I would probably just line em up dead even and take my chances as I think it would be near impossible not being able to see the final result that the protruding seal would actually find the slot it was supposed to go into and risk damaging the seal and having to do the darn thing all over again.   I had success raising the engine from the bottom by placing a board on top of my jack, no pan damage.  I took my time (as this was all new to me) putting the car up Friday night, working a little here and there and finishing today.  I could do this so much quicker next time but it was my first time unbolting the engine and everything else. Rear main seal cap is torqued to 30 ft lbs, the rear crankshaft cap is 85 ft lbs.. don't forget to tighten the crank cap back up before you put the seal cap on

Great info, thanks. The only thing different would be I'm gonna try it with out loosening the crank. Did you remove the crank cap for finger room, or to make it easier?  I would think to make the crank drop you would have to loosen all the caps to drop it down a bit? I'm just gonna lube it up and slide it up there.  I hear it's a pain but possible.

[russg]

On the crank cap I just got the bolts loose a couple turns, did not remove the cap, did not have that much difficulty getting the new seal around, just slow and steady