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Exhaust heat riser. Get one that works or plug it and forget it?

Started by bull, March 20, 2010, 08:08:38 PM

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bull

My exhaust manifold heat riser is shot like so many of them are and I'm not too excited about the prospect of buying another one that might eventually jam and screw up my engine. Would you guys be more apt to jettison the riser, weld the holes shut and pretend it was never there or get a new one? Mine is not going to be a 100 points show car or 100% original. I think I know what my answer is already...

femtnmax

You can remove the valve as your suggesting, take apart and block off holes, or jam it full open and wire it so it can't close.   Many mopars had exhaust valves ruined on one head by heat riser valve stuck closed, forcing all the exhaust from one cylinder bank thru the intake manifold heat cross-over.
Either replace with 100% functional valve, or accept that the engine will be a little slower to warm up in cool weather.   For the cost I"m with you...get rid of it.
Phil

8WHEELER

My wife's valve was loose and noisy when I bought it. I put a clamp around it to hold it open for years.

Then the one time I took it off, I welded it open on the inside, looks great, looks stock, and no worries.

Dan
74 Dart Sport 360, just for added fun.

elacruze

Quote from: bull on March 20, 2010, 08:08:38 PM
My exhaust manifold heat riser is shot like so many of them are and I'm not too excited about the prospect of buying another one that might eventually jam and screw up my engine. Would you guys be more apt to jettison the riser, weld the holes shut and pretend it was never there or get a new one? Mine is not going to be a 100 points show car or 100% original. I think I know what my answer is already...

Wire it open and get an electric-choke Quadrajet!
:sorry:
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.


tan top

have the heat riser working , when i'm running the stock intake & AVS , but wire it open   when i put my thunder 800avs , with manual choke , & weiand stealth intake , with blocked off valley tray ,   aluminum in takes need all the help they can with heat reduction  :Twocents:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

elacruze

1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

firefighter3931

68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

maxwellwedge

Quote from: 8WHEELER on March 21, 2010, 12:35:39 AM
My wife's valve was loose and noisy when I bought it. I put a clamp around it to hold it open for years.

Then the one time I took it off, I welded it open on the inside, looks great, looks stock, and no worries.

Dan

I keep all the outside stuff on, remove the flapper and pin the shaft on the inside to keep the shaft centered so everything looks stock. I can't comment on your wifes maladies!  :lol:

maxwellwedge

Quote from: femtnmax on March 20, 2010, 09:31:17 PM
You can remove the valve as your suggesting, take apart and block off holes, or jam it full open and wire it so it can't close.   Many mopars had exhaust valves ruined on one head by heat riser valve stuck closed, forcing all the exhaust from one cylinder bank thru the intake manifold heat cross-over.
Either replace with 100% functional valve, or accept that the engine will be a little slower to warm up in cool weather.   For the cost I"m with you...get rid of it.

I burned a valve once with a stuck heat riser - I got rid of the flapper from that day on all my stuff.  :2thumbs:

bull

Is there anything special to know about welding on manifolds?

Cooter

Quote from: firefighter3931 on March 21, 2010, 08:02:50 AM
Weld the holes and remove that silly flapper  :Twocents:


Ron


ZACTLY!!

Bull, just tap the holes with a tap and run bolts in the holes...Works great..
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

1969chargerrtse

Mine went rattle rattle when the engine was cold.  I ripped it out and put a short bolt in each hole. Nice and quiet now. :icon_smile_big:
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

bull

Quote from: maxwellwedge on March 21, 2010, 08:08:55 AM
I keep all the outside stuff on, remove the flapper and pin the shaft on the inside to keep the shaft centered so everything looks stock.

Most of my outside stuff is gone but you used to be able to just get the counter weight and flapper stuff from Year One... :shruggy:

A383Wing

Bull, I removed all of mine on the 3 Chargers and put pipe plugs in...just had to tap the holes