How do I fix this?

[HDCharger]

Roof where it meets the Sail Panel.  I know they were originally leaded/  Cut it out, weld in new and lead again?  Looks like a job, anyone tackled this job?  CudaKen?  I also have a crack on the top of the quarter where it folds over into the door jamb.  Otherwise I "think" my quarters will only need lower patches.  Dave

[Mfr426]

Yep, I'd strip the whole seam and then sandblast. I'd then hit it with POR15 and "metal 2 metal" filler. Follow that up with an epoxy primer and then top coat.

[Drop Top]

Your going back with a vinyl top. Right? Usually lead was used on he non-vinyl top cars. I would have to agree with both posts to a certain degree. If yours has lead in the seams. Your going to have to get rid of it first. The best way to remove it is by melting it out with a small propane torch. Try not to smell the fumes. If you grind it out you will send lead shavings in the air and those shavings will get all over you and inside your lungs. Lead will seep into your pores if it is on your skin for prolonged periods of time. Remember lead will cause cancer its highly toxic.

For the fix. Like was suggested after getting the lead out. If there is a rust problem. Depending on the severity of the rust that will tell you how to tackle that problem. Usually at the most, all you need to use is a 3M fiber wheel to clean it all up. If this doesn't take care of the problem then you may have to resort to blasting. If there are any holes from rust that will be a differant fix. Welding will be required. After all that I would use Metal to Metal for the filler. The reason I don't suggest using lead is two fold. Number one is its very toxic. Number two, It takes special tools and know how. The fillers of today are much better all the way around. Metal to Metal is made to go onto bare metal. It will not adhere very well to POR-15 or any other type of primer for that mater. If you put anything on the bare surface before your filler then you should use regular plastic filler. The reason I don't suggest using any fiberglass for the repair is that, its not a Corvette or a kit car. Its a real metal car. Fiberglass will work for a wile. But it will eventually separate and thats going to be a problem later down the road. After you have the filler sanded down use a good bare metal primer. Then a filler primer over that for blocking. If your going to put the top back on then you will not need to do allot of blocking. The top will hide allot of imperfections. If your painting the top then by all means finish it as well as the rest of your car.

[cudaken]

 I used metal to metal on DFS's Charger. With it being a Top car you not have the lead worry. After I sanded out all the filler I could, I used a wire cup on a grinder to clean out the rest of the filler.

                              Cuda Ken

PS, good tip on the lead Drop Top, I would have never thought about the lead in the air. Might cause me to have more brain damage.

[Drop Top]

For the old timers that fallowed from the old site. You have heard me talk about this before.

Lead is a killer. I was taught to do the work I do from a very well known old time customizer. He used lead all his life. He started doing body work in his teens and became a master of his artform. Very well respected among his peers. He made it into 4 Hall of Fames for customizing cars. Matell made 3 differant Hot Wheels from his cars and models where made from them also. We became friends well after his hay day. But I worked along side of him everyday for about 8 years. He showed me how to lead and I became as good with it as him. But we never used any kind of protection wile using it. He past away a few years back from cancer. I'm absolutely sure the many years of using lead was the cause of his cancer. He even told me he thought it was also before he died. He even would mention it as we would be using it with a sort of laugh. But looking back. I could tell, He was always afraid that something like that was going to happen to him, because of him using lead.   Now, very seldom do I use lead anymore because of loosing a very close friend. When I do use it I use long sleeves, gloves eye protection and a resparator. Plus the customer pays double my hourly rate. Metal to Metal is a very good substitute for heavy fill areas. I respect the people that can and do use lead. Its a dieing artform that needs to die out. Many of the old products are very outdated and the new products if use correctly are far more superior to the old products. Even some of the new equipment is better now. Then the old way of doing things. Just don't ask me to give up my jewelers torch. It still has its place in the right hands and situations. I still have almost 50 lbs of lead and all the tools of the trade to use it. But I will not show anyone how to do it. When I use lead its after everyone has gone home and I'm all alone. I will not help anyone kill or harm themselves. Enough said.

     To my dear friend Bill. Thank You for your time and friendship. God Rest.

[Drop Top]

When using a wire cup make sure you use a face shield. Those little wires really can do some damage to you when they fly off. Thats why I use a fiber wheel nowdays. It doesn't last as long but its a bit more safe.

I remember I striped an engine compartment in a 71 Cuda once using a wire cup. It didn't take me long to do, but all I used for protection was a set of eye goggles. It was in the middle of July so I didn't have a shirt on eather. When I was done. I had little wire strands all over my face, chest and arms. Boy was my wife mad at me. Of coarse I was younger then. That was in the mid to late 80s. I've grown a bit wiser now. Plus I never go without a shirt anymore. My chest fell a bit.  I don't need that extra padding for my Santa suit anymore. 

[HDCharger]

Thanks guys for all the information you guys are great.  I will be going back with the top but the way I am hearing this its not going to be as big of a problem as I first suspected.  When you say Metal to Metal this is a type of filler or do you mean weld it up?  Sorry but I am new at this body stuff and it cost to d$%^ much to have it done, plus I wanna learn to do it myself.

[Drop Top]

Its a body filler made by Evercoat. A bit more expensive then plastic filler. Around $14.00 a qt. It has aluminum in it. Its a little tricky to use compared to regular body filler. But works very well in areas such as this. One thing I allways do, (but not necessary) is I weld the seam all the way up. The factory just spots them in. This goes back to my racing days. It just helps stiffen up the car. It will have less twisting action in that area. But like I said before its not necessary on a street car.

[chargervert]

Remember,when you are using Metal to Metal,It dries harder,and faster than regular body filler. Dont just walk away,and let it cure all the way,its a lot easier to shape Metal to Metal,while its still a little soft! Cheese grade it when it feels hard to the touch,but is still hot from the chemical reaction from the hardener. It will save you a lot of sanding!