NEED A FACTORY UNIBODY DIMENSION BOOK FOR MY 68

[68RT440]

Hey guys, I started cutting the rear of the Chrager apart from the mayhem that went on years ago in a body shop. So much of the car was cut and messed with that I dont trust the dimensions to be totally correct. Right now I have both quarters, rear valance, and tail light panel removed. Before I go any further with removing the trunk floor and possible sections of the rear frame rails, Id like to get a book of the unibody dimensions that collision shops used to use. I have no Idea what its technically called or where to even find one. Can anyone point me in the right direction for finding one? Thanks

[Hemidog]

You talking about this?

[Aero426]

PM me your email address and I will get you something a little more user friendly.   

[Mike DC]

What's more user-friendly than the factory specs page? 

[68RT440]

I do have that sheet Hemidog, I wasnt sure if there was anything that showed the body panel measurements ot not..

[Hemidog]

I do have that sheet Hemidog, I wasnt sure if there was anything that showed the body panel measurements ot not..

I don't think so (but you never know).

If the frames are straight, the rust free panels are original and the new sheet metal's fitment is good, I think you would be good by test fitting all the sheet metal together before welding.
I do not exactly know how much sheet metal you can remove before worrying about sag, but I've seen many restos with the 1/4's and trunk panels removed without any bracing.

check this guy out:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48718.20.html

[Aero426]

I do have that sheet Hemidog, I wasnt sure if there was anything that showed the body panel measurements ot not..

The body opening dimensions did not come about until the 80's.    All that is available is underbody dimensions.    You will need to take some sample measurements off another Charger.    If the underbody measures well, the upperbody should build out OK.   These cars are not perfect in the dimension dept either.   If you are within 5mm side to side on the critical underbody stuff, you are doing pretty good on one of these older cars.

[Aero426]

What's more user-friendly than the factory specs page?  

There were some aftermarket data sheets for the underbody.   It's still the same way today.   Factory charts are not necessarily the easiest to use, nor are they entirely accurate either.  I know that sounds wierd, but it is what it is.

A good example of the factory page is that the body zero line is running through the body.   You will have to convert that to hang some frame guages to check your rail heights and for any side sway.   The aftermarket page has it all set up for the technician to hang the guages.

[Aero426]

If the frames are straight, the rust free panels are original and the new sheet metal's fitment is good, I think you would be good by test fitting all the sheet metal together before welding.
I do not exactly know how much sheet metal you can remove before worrying about sag, but I've seen many restos with the 1/4's and trunk panels removed without any bracing.

check this guy out:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48718.20.html

There are many ways to fix a car, and there is no substitute for an experienced frame man.    But unsupported frame rails flapping in the breeze and fitting panels is NOT the way to figure out if your car is right.   Every time I see that, I cringe a little.      

At a minimum you want to hang some datum guages with the bulls eye in the middle off the underbody.    Four guages will do.     Another helpful tool is a tram guage which is a long ruler with pointers that you can "X" (cross check) the rails from left front to right rear, and vice versa.     If you dont have any of these,  a level floor will do.  What the old, old  timers did was hang a plumb bob off the rail to the floor, and mark the floor with chalk.     Then measure between the marks.  

Today we have sophisticated electronic measuring systems that can measure to the millimeter, even on an old car.   The methods I described above are the minimum.    

Probably the ultimate system is what Muscle Car Restorations does, which is with dedicated fixtures and jigs.   Essentially, they are a go/no go guage.   Either it's right, or it's not.   On an intense job like the photo below, this is the way to fly.  It's also the way your car was built at the factory.



The photo below, look at the fixure they use to maintain the rear upperbody dimensions while the car is blown apart.   This is awesome stuff.

[68RT440]

wow, that is pretty sweet. I just want to be 100% sure on everything. This is my first resto, and want to do it correctly. So far, you guys are helping a lot. Thank you