Who does a good 727

[Yeahmate]

Who did your transmission?

Have you tried contacting them??


BTW these people seem to know what there doing

http://www.autotransmissions.com.au

They have some videos up on you tube about 727 rebuilding, i cant vouch for them but there a lot closer to you than you are to us.

Funny you should mention this guy he came to an Aussie site not long after your last post and replied to my post with

From what i can see, here is my opinion bellow.

To your questions that i have not made comments to would mean are o.k as is.

-Trans build date is june/july 1971

-Output shaft would need some buffing or cleaning with emery paper on lathe. (once oil gets to it, it would help the surface rust stay at a very minimum)

-Extension housing bush looks new, not sure why the extra play. (i have never had a new bush undersize)

-Change your stator rings (pump to front drum) to teflon type. Your cast rings will eventually groove your drum as you are using increased pressures through your valve body set up. That bright builder probably fitted what he got given in the rebuild kit.

-Those grind marks on your pump stator are to assist the apply of your 3rd gear (front clutch drum)
Can you please send me a better pic of that modification as i cannot see clear, i want to make sure he hasnt hacked it for you.

-Using that Pump - front drum - to rear drum set up will work.

-Pump gears are not new, but in good condition from what i can see. I would upgrade to a new set to give the inside gear tabs a new life if you want peace of mind, or if you see any wear on the pump gear tabs (the tabs that come into contact with the converter neck) the gears are not expensive. Approx 45+gst from your aussie distributor.

- Has that converter bush got over spray or is it pitted ?

-Front drum 60" frictions are your thin type (as you have)

-I would include Kolene steel for both packs.

-Your thrust washer set from what i can see will work. if you want to bullit proof and go the extra few $$, i would fit a new set.

-front clutch springs:
Pending requirement of the v/body builder (a&a) how many springs they advise to fit to suit there valve body set up.
( if you are thinking .... maybe 15 springs will be too heavy to activate the clutch, remember... we have the stator mod to assist in top gear apply.) thats why i wouldnt mind getting a better view of the stator mod.

-Front drum clearance:
If possible check with the v/body builder to see what specs they want to see. I usually set them up at ( race .070" +/- .005" ) (street .085" +/- .005")
Note: when using your 5 friction set up

-Rear clutch clearance: .030 - .040 (the clearance they had at .066" was definitely too high)

-Rear band drum has had some history.Replace to be certain. (that part of wear will only come into contact with the outer part of the rear anulus) You can try and clean it up, but for my liking and for any possible internal out of balance issues i would be replacing.

-Accumulator set up on a manual v/b (in most cases) does not need the spring in place.

-Rear servo:
I am not sure how compressible the piston to piston spring is?
The builder may have achieved this by installing a harder piston to piston spring or a sleeve / shim inserted between the 2 pistons to take away any slack/ travel. (this can be viewed within the smaller spring)
When compressing the pistons against each other they should not travel too far. The perfect end result would be a solid piston.
Large spring should be heavier than stock, retainer should be thicker than stock.

On the billet servo you get:
-solid servo (no movement as stock spring, cushioned type)
-upgraded servo return spring
-h/duty retainer (the retainer in the photo looks stock)

- Front servo you can leave as is.

- I would also include if you do not already have in your trans:
4.2 front band apply lever
H/duty front band strut



As i am not sure of the below:
-what type, weight vehicle it is in
-what % track / street use it will see
-how aggressive you will be with it
-What revs your motor will see

Your additional options would be:
-billet steel drum ( A safety precaution for any high rever, higher output trans. You can not include the steel drum and fit safety blanket/shield instead. this may solve any debris going through your floor but wont save the trans if it decides to let go)

-If serious with running numbers, you can go roller. This helps with keeping friction at a minimum thus less drag and less horsepower loss.

Really well done reply I thought. 

[Yeahmate]

Lot of people talk of going billet steel rear drum, is this the band drum or the clutch retaining drum, and why not go aluminum?

[Ghoste]

They can both be replaced with aluminum parts but typically the rear clutch retainer in a super stock or stock eliminator car will be aluminum because the light weight can be used to advantage and those cars usually have a religious maintenance and inspection schedule.  Big horsepower cars should go with the steel. (IMO)

[Yeahmate]

Thanks Ghoste, I had crossed wires I thought it was the rear drum that could be in danger of exploding with the sprag let go, I see now it's the front, so I had a steel one ordered 

[Ghoste]

What about "Torqueflites by Randy", anybody know much about them?

[oldcarnut]

Jamey (RD) is rebuilding my tranny for me.  Myself not being very technical minded on the 727 I just told him how I was wanting to use it and he took it from there.  Real easy to talk with.  There was a lot of closer places in SC that could have done it than sending it to Kansas but I felt besides the other folks here good recommendations for him,  it was good to have someone in the hobby with an interest in the cars as well  .  I'd rather work with some of the guys here that share their advise and knowledge to help others freely than someone in a shop somewhere whose only interest is how much is in my wallet. 
David

[FLG]

Jamey did my tranny I havnt gotten to use itt just yet but sure does look nice