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From manual drum brakes to disc-what do I need to get and do?

Started by elanmars, February 17, 2010, 02:21:16 AM

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elanmars

What will I need to do this? I'm only doing the front for now. I will need a master cylinder and what else to go with the brakes? I want to make them power too. How would I go about all this?

for the front disc, I'm on the fence on these two by wilwood-

140-9828-D which has rotor diameter of 12.19 and 140-2721-BD which is 10.75. Is one better than the other? drilled and slotted or drilled-what is better?

thanks.
1969 Dodge Charger, pseudo General Lee., 1973 ratty Dodge Charger.

check out my photography: http://www.tomasraul.com
instagram: tomasraul
facebook: www.facebook.com/tomasraulphotography

ACUDANUT

 Find a donar car, and forget aftermarket set-up's, as they will only drain your pocketbook. :Twocents:

elacruze

 :iagree:

Here's the grampa of all the disc-brake swap articles;

http://www.arengineering.com/articles/brakesmuscle.html

Pretty much everything you need to know, with options on upgrades etc.
You'll read that C-body spindles are to be avoided; that theory has pretty much gone out the window. I have the entire spindle/brake setup from a 78 or so Cordoba, for $150. I bought powerslot rotors, had them cryogenically treated, and will rebuild the calipers myself; all in, I'll have about $600 including SS brake hoses in it. You could save $250 by using stock Mopar rotors. Best of all, if you upgrade later you can sell the entire package back into the Mopar community at little or no loss.  :2thumbs:
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

70charginglizard

Quote from: ACUDANUT on February 17, 2010, 03:35:50 AM
Find a donar car, and forget aftermarket set-up's, as they will only drain your pocketbook. :Twocents:

Yep....get ready to open up that pocket book.
70charginglizard

elanmars

Quote from: 70charginglizard on February 17, 2010, 02:18:08 PM
Quote from: ACUDANUT on February 17, 2010, 03:35:50 AM
Find a donar car, and forget aftermarket set-up's, as they will only drain your pocketbook. :Twocents:

Yep....get ready to open up that pocket book.

how come? what makes them such money drainers?
1969 Dodge Charger, pseudo General Lee., 1973 ratty Dodge Charger.

check out my photography: http://www.tomasraul.com
instagram: tomasraul
facebook: www.facebook.com/tomasraulphotography

terrible one

I did the same thing. Went with 74 (I think) dart manual disc MC. Got it new, not rebuilt from NAPA for $35 IIRC. Used 73 Charger spindles and rotors with 71 Challenger calipers. Went together on the cheap.

LeadfootBob

I'm building the AR setup with Wilwood calipers right now.
Spindles off a '76 Aspen Wagon
AR adapters
Wilwood Calipers, pads etc.
New HD rotors, bearings, seals...
Mancini Racing master cylinder (no booster)
About 1500-1700 bucks, thanks to customs  :RantExplode:

Bigger than these discs will land you in big rim territory, supposedly these things will have to be checked for clearance with 15" rims, some may not fit.
The calipers are incredibly light, and swapping out pads is a 10 second job once the wheel is off.  
Proud member of the jack stand racing team since 1999.
'70 Charger 500: "Bronson", some kind of hillbilly hot rod in progress.
'89 Chevy Caprice 9C1: "it's got a cop motor..."

stripedelete

So to make sure I understand this correctly:  With my 69 factory disc master cylinder in place, get a set spindles off a 70's Dart, Aspen, Charger or Diplomat, then make a trip to NAPA for corresponding  rotors and calipers.  That's  it?  It's that simple?

elanmars

so the spindles dont come in a kit, i have to get them from a donor car??
1969 Dodge Charger, pseudo General Lee., 1973 ratty Dodge Charger.

check out my photography: http://www.tomasraul.com
instagram: tomasraul
facebook: www.facebook.com/tomasraulphotography

elacruze

Quote from: elanmars on February 18, 2010, 12:32:43 AM
so the spindles dont come in a kit, i have to get them from a donor car??

Magnumforce has a kit which uses Wilwood calipers and your original drum spindles;

http://www.magnumforce.com/wilwood_mopar_big_brakes_drum.asp

I might have used this kit, but I didn't want aluminum hubs and unsealed calipers for my extensive mileage expectations.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

elanmars

Quote from: elacruze on February 18, 2010, 01:05:25 AM
Quote from: elanmars on February 18, 2010, 12:32:43 AM
so the spindles dont come in a kit, i have to get them from a donor car??

Magnumforce has a kit which uses Wilwood calipers and your original drum spindles;

http://www.magnumforce.com/wilwood_mopar_big_brakes_drum.asp

I might have used this kit, but I didn't want aluminum hubs and unsealed calipers for my extensive mileage expectations.

wayyy out of my price range, plus mine is a daily driver. thanks anyway.
1969 Dodge Charger, pseudo General Lee., 1973 ratty Dodge Charger.

check out my photography: http://www.tomasraul.com
instagram: tomasraul
facebook: www.facebook.com/tomasraulphotography


Cooter

'73-'76 A-Body car...Get the entire swap from one car and it IS A BOLT ON deal...You can run either 14" or 15" wheels with them as the 11" rotor allows for clearance....
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

ACUDANUT

 Find a b body also. There are plenty junk 4 door cars that will work also.

squeakfinder

     


   I did the A body swap on mine. I had power drum brakes allready. The 75 A body proportioning valve bolted wright in place of the stock one. I mounted the caliper's to the rear because there would have been clearance issue's otherwise. The brake hose's to the caliper's were for a 73 Charger.


    :scratchchin: So, I have this 78 Magnum parts car with 11 inch disc brakes. Has the idea that these later B body discs won't work on are 2nd generation Charger's been dispelled once and for all? If so, it would probably be cheaper to go with the latter B body brakes.
Still looking for 15x7 Appliance slotted mags.....

gasoline_24

I understand that most people are using the same master cylinder that is used in the power disc brake setup, but what are you doing for your brake lines?  Do any of you have some pics of what you have done? 

Also, on the back side of the master cylinder, I know you need a boot, but is there anything else that attaches?  I was looking at one at the salvage yard and there was a spring insid of the master cylinder boot.  Anybody know what that would have been?  Do you need one on a switch?  If so are the available anywhere? 

I think I have everything ready to go, just need to find the brake lines and should have working brakes.

ACUDANUT


gasoline_24

No idea, but I wish we could come up with a solution that says here are your options that work for disc brakes and here are the parts you need including master cylinder and lines.  I know a lot of this is discusses in other threads, and I have read them all, but I am thinking we could come up with a proven combo section for disc brakes.   :yesnod:

gasoline_24

Does anybody know what brake lines to use for this?  I have the front to rear, I just need the ones that go from the MC to the distribution block.

ACUDANUT

  Keep using the "search" tab and you will find everything related to your swap. :Twocents:

gasoline_24

There is nothing I can find under the search on what brake lines to use and whether there is a spring behind the boot.

squeakfinder

 
It's going to depend on what you do for a proportioning valve and possibly wheather you have a booster. The stock lines off of my master cylinder bolted wright to the 75 Dart proporting valve.
Still looking for 15x7 Appliance slotted mags.....

hemirr

I have a 68 Charger, I too read all the threads about disc conversions.  Everyone always says that the 70's A body spindle, caliper setups are the way to go.  Also found out allot of the conversion kits available use these 70's A-Body spindles-caliper combo. Then I found out that mid 80's Diplomats, Cordoba, 5th Ave are the same as the Mid 70's A-Bodies and much easier to find in the junk yard.  So I bought the entire set up from a 5th Ave (calipers are on the backside of disc so wont hit sway bar) for $50.00 at U-pull place.  Turned the rotors, used old calipers for core and purchased new ones, new pads, brake lines etc, total bill less than $200.00.  I got a master cylinder and proportioning valve from master power brakes and now the car stops great.  I used the stock charger A-Arms and ball joints and front alignment was no problem and the car handles great. 

I did a lot of research before I jumped in and the work paid off.  Hope this helps 




gasoline_24

Thanks hemirr.  I think I have finally figured out the rest of the picture.  The master cylinder to use is one for a 70-74 E-body.  It has the lines exiting on the drivers side.  For the lines go with a set designed for a manual drum brake car.   Thank you for all that have helped.

bucko81

what part #'s do you have for the master cylinder and valve?