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Power Steering box leak

Started by 1969chargerrtse, March 09, 2010, 07:53:06 PM

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1969chargerrtse

I had just replaced the input shaft seal and can see the leak is coming out of this lower section where the big castle nut is. Has anyone had this type of leak? I have the large thin O ring that is in the leaking area.  Has anyone taken the unit apart to replace that O ring?
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

oldcarnut

I am almost about to.  Since I have redone the entire front suspension I am replacing the seals in the steering box.  Ordered 2 new needle bearings for the pitman arm shaft for when I replace that seal.  I replaced the same seal you did but when I tried to get the castle loose it didn't seem to want to budge unless I needed to knock the snot out of it. If I take off this weekend I'll post another pic of it disassembled. Here's where I'm at now.  I think this should probably be moved to the suspension thread and you might get some more answers.

2am update.  I went ahead and knocked the snot out of it and got the nut loose to replace the two other o-rings that go with the seal kit you got for the input shaft seal. Didn't want to do it half way.  I'll start a thread in the suspension section in a couple days with some pictures of replacing all the o-rings, seals, and the needle bearings.  Should have it all done by the weekend.  Will that do for ya?

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: oldcarnut on March 10, 2010, 12:38:39 AM
I am almost about to.  Since I have redone the entire front suspension I am replacing the seals in the steering box.  Ordered 2 new needle bearings for the pitman arm shaft for when I replace that seal.  I replaced the same seal you did but when I tried to get the castle loose it didn't seem to want to budge unless I needed to knock the snot out of it. If I take off this weekend I'll post another pic of it disassembled. Here's where I'm at now.  I think this should probably be moved to the suspension thread and you might get some more answers.

2am  ::) update.  I went ahead and knocked the snot out of it and got the nut loose to replace the two other o-rings that go with the seal kit you got for the input shaft seal. Didn't want to do it half way.  I'll start a thread in the suspension section in a couple days with some pictures of replacing all the o-rings, seals, and the needle bearings.  Should have it all done by the weekend.  Will that do for ya?
That will be great.  It's a small leak so I still drive it.  I'll wait for your update, thanks. :2thumbs:
( Can't believe it put it in the wrong section? )   :slap:

When I removed the big castle nut I coudn't get the big thing out to get to the O ring?  After the large nut, then the thin spacer, how did you remove that big thingy to get to the O ring?
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

oldcarnut

Figured I'd just as well piggy back on your question.
Here's a pic of the the thin spacer

oldcarnut

Next I used some pliers to pull it straight back.  That's the big o-ring in the kit.  I cleaned it up some so next shows the little o-ring where it goes on the tube coming out at the top.  This is why the cover gets pulled straight back and not turned as you can see from the back of the cover where the tube slides in.

oldcarnut

Next I put in the shaft seal.  After putting a coating of grease on the needle bearings. and o-rings, I put it all back.  Initially I placed some paint marker on the assy. so I would get the locations aligned and back the same then tightened the nut to the same position/tightness.  What happened next ruined my night.  I started to take apart the control valve and broke one of the mounting bolt hole ears off  :brickwall:. while it was mounted in the vice.  I'm going to see if I can get it welded back at work tomorrow or otherwise I have to find a used control valve body somewhere.  Hope this helped you out.
David

1969chargerrtse

Thank you very much!!  So I just pull that big thing out and put the O ring on around the outside diameter. I see there is an inner o ring also.  I dont have that one.

Sorry about the broken part.  That sucks big time.  :P
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

oldcarnut

That's basically it. This was on the 70 RR.  Be careful though that you don't jar the needle bearings out in the cover :eek2:.  Mine had a cage holding them in but the ones for the pitman arm shaft didn't so all fell out when I took the shaft out. The seal kits I've seen have the shaft seal, the big o-ring and the little one.  While you have it off I'd go ahead and replace it too.  Maybe match it up to one at the parts store as it can't be much over a dollar if that.  I'll post more pics of the other seals later here.

1969chargerrtse

Fantastic, thanks again.  I was worried no one would know?  You are  :angel:.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

tan top

good pictures OCN , thanks for sharing !!  :2thumbs: i  tried & tried to get that part off to change the seal in my original box , not long after i got my charger !   :icon_smile_blackeye: no go it was stuck fast ,   :yesnod: replaced the box as in the end with a rebuilt one  :yesnod:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

oldcarnut

Mine didn't come out real easy.  There was a a lot of grime/rust build up as you can see but once it sorta broke the suction or stickiness it slid on off. Welded my broke piece today. Gonna see how it fits in a few minutes.  Everything fit good.  Here's the before and after weld pics.  My end nut was really tight so I had clamped in the vise on one of the ears to hold it while I got it loose.  Don't do this  :slap:

oldcarnut

First pic the O-rings and assy. for the control valve.  Next pic the o-rings on the steering unit for under the control valve.  And last the bolted on valve. Anyone know what the tag means?  I put it back on like it came off but don't know what it represents.  Except for the weld this was easy and all o-rings were from one control valve seal kit.   Tomorrow I'll try to get the pitman arm bearings and seals back together.

oldcarnut

Got the pitman arm seals done this morning.  1st shot is the new bearings inside.  You don't have pull the arm out but if you do then your going to have to replace the bearings.  Next is the seal with the backup ring and snap ring in place.  Notice the diagram above doesn't show the backup ring.  I had one seal diagram pointing to a brg and calling it a seal and another showing it but calling it a washer. Then the arm is installed and dust seal installed next.  On the other side is the o-ring under the back lash adjusting nut.

oldcarnut

Her's a shot of the gear shaft.  See how the gear is tapered. When your adjusting backlash with the bolt this is what your tightening.  Last 2 is my completed K-frame rebuild.

RusTy/SE

The numbers on the tag represent the date code; 57th day of 1970.

My guess is for date of steering box assembly compared to the date on the housing which which would indicate when cast.  :scratchchin:

tan top

thats good got the control valve  bolt hole welded up  :coolgleamA: , good lot  of pictures & information ! thanks for sharing this stuff  :coolgleamA: :yesnod: :cheers:  K frame looks nice  :2thumbs:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

oldschool

yeah,thanks for sharing.this has been very informative.  :2thumbs:
1968 cuda formula S bb 4-sp                          1968 Charger R/T 500" 4-sp
1970 Charger 580" 4-sp
1970 Cuda Convertible 500" 4-sp
1970 Cuda Convertible 500" 4-sp
TOO MUCH HORSEPOWER, IS ALMOST ENOUGH!

1969chargerrtse

This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

oldcarnut

Thanks and your welcome. Hopefully it will save someone else a little of the trouble that I ran in to.  That was the last thing I needed to do to complete the front suspension rebuild for my Superbird clone.  Now I can move on to work the engine compartment before it goes back in  :cheers:.

1969chargerrtse

Here's how I removed the thingy while the box was still in the car.  I wrapped a vise grip around it ( no damage ) and then lightly rocked the thing back and forth while I gently pryed it out.  It came out easy and  now is repaired and I have one less leak.  :2thumbs:
I wasn't sure how to go about it until oldcarnut posted his pictures. Many thanks.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

69chargerrt

@oldcarnut:   I'm guessing you had your old PS box beadblasted before you opened it up?  If so, what media did you use?

Thanks!
David

'69 Dodge Charger R/T

oldcarnut

I used regular glass bead I got from the Harbor Freight store in the small blaster that they sell too.  Taped it up some and tried to keep away from the sealing areas.  Afterwards I painted it using the stainless steel colored paint I sprayed parts of the suspension with so thats why it looks like its bare unfinished metal in the pics.

PatrickPeeters

Yes good job, think i'm going to try that!

Thanks
Patrick  :punkrocka:

ACUDANUT


hemi68charger

Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

Al

yes good post, even if it's an old one, it helped me a lot when I redid the steering box some time ago
1968 Dodge Charger, 383, UU1