Help me fix my chocolate milk motor (BIG PICS)

[NMike]

so got a 360, .020 over. stock stroke, 11.something to one KB Hyperutectic pistons. 340 "J" heads with 2.02 intake installed, 750 DOUBLE PUMPER.

the block and heads were just surfaced, no major cuts taken off. a friend of mine gave me a cam, lifter and spring set from a motor he was running. for the life of me i can't remember the specs. ( over 10 years ago).

had it running. seemed ok then. parked it over the winter, ooops, no anti-freeze. in the spring i found 4 frost plugs under the car.

fast forward 8 years. i finally pulled the engine to install new plugs. put the engine back. coolant this time too. engine didn't run right. seemed to be missfiring. tried new plugs, timing. same. checked the oil, chocolate milk..........

fast forward one more year. i pulled the heads today hoping for a blown head gasket.


now the hole i suspect


anybody for spaghetti?


hole in the bucket


another lifter/lobe is toast


see anything wrong in this picture?


i think i can save this rod


head looks ok, still see the machining on the block and head. don't have a straight edge to check.



and now what i suspect as the villain.....


i am suspecting coil bind did in the motor. doesn't appear to have any piston contact, the valves hold fluid. when i pull the right head, the intake was still full of fuel, valve was no longer opening ( the big miss)

i am thinking the oil/coolant mix was from the hole with the wrecked intake, was sucking in the coolant from the head since no intake air was getting in, something had to get in there.

make sense?

anyways, car if a 1980 volare, full weight,  3.90, 3000 stall 727. going to use it for taking the kids for a joy ride, beating on tires and the occasional drag strip. vacuum brakes are still needed.

what cam/spring combo should i use? i don't need max power or the latest in space age materials. since i spent too much on this turd already, i now have to hold back on spending.

[firefighter3931]

Looks like a simple case of coilbind...the dead givaway is that all of the pushrods are bent and there is no piston to valve witness marks.

You might have a cracked block given that the freezeplugs popped in the past. Either that or the head gaskets were blown.



Ron

[NMike]

well i found the leak. the underside manifold under the thermostat was cracked. hope thats it.

any suggestions for a cam?

[firefighter3931]

well i found the leak. the underside manifold under the thermostat was cracked. hope thats it.

any suggestions for a cam?

Hope that's the source of your leak 

For that engine combo, weight and gears i'd look at the Comp XE274H with a set of HD rocker arms & chromemoly pushrods


Ron

[Highbanked Hauler]

can you get by with just changing the springs or do you need longer valves?

[NMike]

i was hoping to just get new push rods and springs. i really don't want to buy new valves again. these have only been run for a few hours...

[firefighter3931]

i was hoping to just get new push rods and springs. i really don't want to buy new valves again. these have only been run for a few hours...

Mike,


No need to swap valves....with the correct matched valvesprings and retainer mods you can easily run a .650 lift cam with the "stock" valvestem length. 

That Comp 274 i suggested for you won't require any head mods other than matching the correct valvesprings. 



Ron