How to convert electronic ignition back to breaker point.

[DLC43]

I have a 1968 that has been converted to electronic ignition sometime in the past and I want to return it to original breaker point.
I have purchased a remanufactured BP distributor and NOS voltage regulator.
What else do I need? will the current alternator work?
Different ballast resistor? Coil?
Also I have looked everywhere and cannot find an ignition wiring diagram for a breaker point ignition.
Can anyone steer me in the right direction?
I have asked this question of friends and all I get is "Why do you want to  go back to breaker point?
I'm a little tired of that question LOL!.
Because its original to the car Duh!
A wiring diagram would help a lot.
I looked in the archives here and didn't find much on going back to breaker point.
Mostly just going the other way.
Thanks for any help in advance.
Dave.

[b5blue]

You can get a new motor harness from Year One and go by the Factory service manual for 68. 

[TylerCharger69]

Basically....replace the distributor...of course, the ballast resistor...since it has a different resistance rating than the electronic version, and go back with the stock regulator. The ecu will be removed from the equation.  And, the wiring needs to be put back, meaning the ecu harness needs to go back to the stock voltage regulator harness.

[DLC43]

Thanks,
So the alternator is the same for both types of ignition?
Thanks
Dave

[b5blue]

See if you have a "round back" alt. and 1 feed wire to the post with the nut on it and 1 "field" wire. (This would be "stock" in 68) A "square back" alt is just that, the back is square, with the large wire to the stud BUT 2 field wires. The charging system is upgradable with ether system as the ignition system is upgradable ether way also. You need to figure out what's been changed and what is stock with both as many things may have been done over the years. There is allot of info here on "hiding" the modifications like using upgraded guts in a stock alt., pointless adapters in the dist. and a solid state regulator that looks the same as point type. Use the search feature to find threads with info and pics others have posted. 

[DLC43]

I have been reading the archived posts and it appears all I have to do to use a dual field alternator as a single field is to ground one of the field terminals to the block.
Is that correct?
It almost sounds too easy to be right.

[Nacho-RT74]

no need to go back to mechanical regulator/single field to get back to points distributor, you can keep electronic regulator and double field alt with points dist.

but yes, grounding one brush and wiring the other one will convert on a single field alt. To ground the brush is enough replace the isolation washer on brush screw and mount a metalic washer. Keep safe and cut the prong of the grounded brush, to not hook it incorrectly with the positive wire coming from mech reg.

Ballast resistor replacement could it be a good advice too. I think the right ballast for points is rated at 1.5 ohms. Thats will keep safer the breaker point inside the dist. Elecs are rated in around 1 ohm.

[DLC43]

Thanks Nacho.
I have already purchased everything except the alternator which I will modify my current one as you suggested.
I actually had it running with the breaker point ignition already but it didn't appear to be charging so this will likely solve my problem.
Thanks for all the information.
I have had so much trouble with the electronic ignition over the years that I finally just decided to go back to original all mechanical.
There is something to be said for the simplicity of the old breaker point ignition.
I'm almost 50 and that's what I worked on in my teenage years and I just find them easier.
I'm also past my hot rodding days so if it just runs reliably I will be happy.
Thanks again.

Dave