News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Replacing Clutches in a Sure grip Unit

Started by AmadeusCharger500, March 02, 2010, 03:26:22 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

AmadeusCharger500

CAn anyone point me toward a set of instructions?

I have the top bearing off and the bolts (left hand thread) out but hesitate to open it up for fear of parts flying everywhere.....
Ahh, sigh, I guess thats the way of things though.

AmadeusCharger500

The Case it will be going into

375instroke

There are Belleville springs in there, which look like bent washers.  I haven't taken one apart, but I'm sure there isn't much energy stored in them.  Once the last bolt is unscrewed a few threads, all the tension is removed.  Nothing's going to shoot out.  The cone type may be different.  It has coil springs, but I don't believe they are compressed that much.  Factory Service Manual would be my suggestion.  My library has many years and models that I  used to check out before I got my own copies.

John_Kunkel


The bolts that hold the two halves together are left-hand thread. Once the bolts are removed the halves will only spread apart a small amount (if any at all), no springs to fly out. When disassembling, carefully make a note of the position of the flat discs and the cupped discs, reassemble in the same order. (there are a couple of different disc configurations)

The inner splines in the  two-piece side gears can become misaligned on reassembly so its wise to install axle shafts in each side to align the splines before tightening the bolts.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

bakerhillpins

Quote from: John_Kunkel on March 04, 2010, 08:16:58 PM
The inner splines in the  two-piece side gears can become misaligned on reassembly so its wise to install axle shafts in each side to align the splines before tightening the bolts.

Is that something that you could do by simply making alignment marks with a grease pencil?
One great wife (Life is good)
14 RAM 1500 5.7 Hemi Crew Cab (crap hauler)
69 Dodge Charger R/T, Q5, C6X, V1X, V88  (Life is WAY better)
96' VFR750 (Sweet)
Capt. Lyme Vol. Fire

"Inspiration is for amateurs - the rest of us just show up and get to work." -Chuck Close
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits." -Albert Einstein
Go that way, really fast. If something gets in your way, turn.
Science flies you to the moon, Religion flies you into buildings.

John_Kunkel


The splines are so fine in pitch that the misalignment is hard to see if it's just a little off and a little off will prevent the axles from going in. Best to actually have the axles installed before tightening the bolts.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

AmadeusCharger500

These Side gears? They were both bound in the case with age and a little rust and were a struggle to remove. If I clean them up do I use a fine sand paper to get them super smooth and do they get some type of special break in oil? I have been very careful to keep the discs in place until I'm ready for reassembly.

AmadeusCharger500

Here is the side gear assembly?

375instroke

I guess with parts that don't move in relation to each other, the rust is OK.  I'm not sure about the moving parts like gear against gear.  What happens when two pitted metal surfaces rub against each other?

John_Kunkel


The rusty surface in the top pic bears against a clutch disc so it needs to be smooth and rust free. Just clean off the rust with a wire wheel, any small pits won't hurt (think of the pits as lube reservoirs)

There is no special breakin oil required but the Sure-Grip needs a special friction modifying additive available from Mopar or you can use one of the synthetic lubes that don't need an additive.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

AmadeusCharger500

Okay I got my new set of clutches. Installed them being very careful to keep the same order. Applied a light coat of the supplied diff additive to each side of each disc. They came with a nifty little drawing and set of directions. I have both halves back together with all the bolts started. Its interesting the outer spliced disc in the new set is not dished, does it form a dish shape eventually by pressure against the dished plate once the halves are tightened?

Now This next part I really don't understand. I somewho install the axles shafts before tightening the powr-lok case bolts ? How do I do that? The unit isn't even installed in the differential yet!

John_Kunkel


If you don't have the axles out of the car yet and don't have a spare set you don't have much choice but to remove the axles from the car now. If you don't have the two side gear splines aligned you will have a tough time installing the axles once the unit is in the car.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

AmadeusCharger500

The axle housing is unit I bought at carlisle last year as Im changing from an 8.25 rear to an 8.75. So yeah its out of the car. I just pulled it in to the workshop today. Im still a little fuzzy on installing the axle shafts. Do I just put the Powrlock on the ground and push an axle in to both sides?

John_Kunkel

Quote from: AmadeusCharger500 on March 09, 2010, 08:11:01 AM
Do I just put the Powrlock on the ground and push an axle in to both sides?

I put one axle shaft in a large vise with the splines facing up, place the SG unit on that axle and plug the other axle into the top of the SG. Be sure the axle splines extend through both halves of each side gear; then torque the bolts.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Highbanked Hauler

 My SG unit  has a whine under acceleration  but not when you let off. Is that a case of gear backlash and if it is what can be done to it? :shruggy:
69 Charger 500, original owner  
68 Charger former parts car in process of rebuilding
92 Cummins Turbo Diesel
04 PT Cruiser

John_Kunkel


I am of the opinion that noisy gears that have been run for any length of time can't be quieted by adjusting.

If the gears have been run for a short time the gear contact pattern should be checked and readjusted if necessary.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Cooter

Quote from: John_Kunkel on March 18, 2010, 03:59:06 PM

I am of the opinion that noisy gears that have been run for any length of time can't be quieted by adjusting.

If the gears have been run for a short time the gear contact pattern should be checked and readjusted if necessary.

Zactly, Once the wear pattern is there, it's THERE..Like breakin' in a camshaft, then swapping around all the lifters...
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"