What's the best way to seal the oil pan on a 440 with a windage tray?

[RECHRGD]

The cork gaskets just seem to get saturated after awhile and if tightened a little it just squeezes the gaskets out of shape.  Are there better gaskets out there?  If I remember correctly, I tried some rubber gaskets a few years back with the same results.  The pan is fairly new and the sealing surface is flat.  What kind of sealant is best and what sides of the gaskets do you coat?  Thanks, Bob

[GPULLER]

Saw in the Mancini Racing flyer they have oil pan gaskets from Flatout.  Reusable, one piece, silicone with steelcore & limiters. 

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/bheaseoilpan.html

[firefighter3931]

I like the rubber-fiber pan gaskets as opposed to the cork....you'll need 2 of these :

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-397/

This is by far the best stuff to use as a gasket sealer :

http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm

*Let it set-up overnight to cure and torque to spec the next day. It's a PITA to remove but seals like a champ. 




Ron

[RECHRGD]

Thanks guys!!   I knew there had to be something better out there.  Ron, so you coat all sides of the gaskets with the sealer?  Bob

[skip68]

Weld it shut.   

[RECHRGD]

Weld it shut.   

Good idea Chuck!!!  I wonder why the factory never thought of that?   Bob

[GPULLER]

When using Permatex "Right Stuff" it's just as good as welded!!!  I stopped using it.
Used it in between the block and crankcase on a 70 John Deere, cause the gasket wasn't available from Deere.  A year later we had to pull the block cause it cracked.  Had a hell of a time to get block separated from the crankcase.  Hammers, chisels and large pry bars...not cool.
Used it on crankcase inspection covers on another tractor.  The covers were 1/8 plate, those were bent before I got them off.
The stuff does seal!

[Rolling_Thunder]

Right-Stuff = Awesomeness!         I only use it for a few things because it seals so well...      oil pan is one of them - Then I also use it to glue gaskets to the valve covers...       

[defiance]

I actually have even more on mine - girdle + windage + pan   AND I had a bad rear main cap, so I had to re-do the whole thing somewhere on the order of 5-6 times.  So I feel like I got pretty good at it

I didn't do anything special.  Just spent a bit of time ensuring that the windage tray was perfectly flat, so it wouldn't pull loose under near-0 torque, went a bit more liberal than normal with the sealant (normal black permatex), and just 'finger-tightened' the screws, then left it for a day and then tightened the rest of the way - and was careful not to overtorque.  First time I did it I squeezed the gasket out in a couple places, next several were no trouble.

Personally, I tried it with two gaskets a couple of times, and I got it to work, but I finally decided it was easier to just seal the tray directly to the pan.

Actually, now that I said that, and reading the feedback here - it might make sense to seal the tray to the pan with the "right stuff" everybody's talking about, then seal to the block with normal sealant.  That way if you remove the pan in the future, the tray will stay with the pan and simplify the re-install (maybe?  I've never used right stuff, so I have no idea if it's that tough or not).

[firefighter3931]

Thanks guys!!   I knew there had to be something better out there.  Ron, so you coat all sides of the gaskets with the sealer?  Bob

Yes, coat all sides with a skim coat....don't go nuts. 

Weld it shut.   

Chuck, i'm starting to wonder about you 



Ron

[suntech]

Chuck, i'm starting to wonder about you   

Ron...... we stopped wondering about Chuck long time ago 

[1969chargerrtse]

Hey guys (Ron). I can't find a good sealer for my exhaust stud threads?  Will right stuff handle that and how about using it in place of exhaust gaskets?

[firefighter3931]

Hey guys (Ron). I can't find a good sealer for my exhaust stud threads?  Will right stuff handle that and how about using it in place of exhaust gaskets?

The "Right Stuff" can certainly be used in place of a gasket....that's what it's designed for, although i often use it to enhance gasket sealing on difficult surfaces.

I would make sure the manifold surfaces are flush (no warpage) and give it a try. Should work fine on the exhaust stud bolts too. Make sure the threads are dry and allow the sealant to cure overnight before refilling with coolant. Put a nice bead around the exhaust ports on the manifold and install snug and let cure....torque to spec the next day. 



Ron

[1969chargerrtse]

Wow, great detailed info. Thanks Ron. Will do. This is my 3rd time redoing the threads and exhaust gaskets. I'm gonna wire wheel the exhaust manifolds ( should of done that the other times ) and use a copper gasket coated on both sides. You think that's o.k or no gasket at all?  Then the threads as you suggested.

[firefighter3931]

Wow, great detailed info. Thanks Ron. Will do. This is my 3rd time redoing the threads and exhaust gaskets. I'm gonna wire wheel the exhaust manifolds ( should of done that the other times ) and use a copper gasket coated on both sides. You think that's o.k or no gasket at all?  Then the threads as you suggested.

The copper gaskets with the right stuff will do the trick. I would lay a straightedge across the port openings on the manifold to make sure there isn't any big warpage. The copper will form somewhat to a mildly warped ex manifold. If the warpage is excessive then it might be time to visit the machineshop. There is some "crush" with the copper gaskets so allow the RTV (Right Stuff) to set up before final torque. Make sure all surfaces are clean and grease free. Wire wheel the head and manifold surfaces and hose it down with brake clean. Stuff some paper into the exhaust ports to keep debris from falling in there. 

Good luck and let us know how it turns out 



Ron

[1969chargerrtse]

Wow, great detailed info. Thanks Ron. Will do. This is my 3rd time redoing the threads and exhaust gaskets. I'm gonna wire wheel the exhaust manifolds ( should of done that the other times ) and use a copper gasket coated on both sides. You think that's o.k or no gasket at all?  Then the threads as you suggested.

The copper gaskets with the right stuff will do the trick. I would lay a straightedge across the port openings on the manifold to make sure there isn't any big warpage. The copper will form somewhat to a mildly warped ex manifold. If the warpage is excessive then it might be time to visit the machineshop. There is some "crush" with the copper gaskets so allow the RTV (Right Stuff) to set up before final torque. Make sure all surfaces are clean and grease free. Wire wheel the head and manifold surfaces and hose it down with brake clean. Stuff some paper into the exhaust ports to keep debris from falling in there.  

Good luck and let us know how it turns out  



Ron

Thanks again for taking the time to answer that in great detail ( the way I need it ).Problem about letting you know if it works is you will have to wait a year.  That's how long my exhaust gaskets last.  I did run a flat thin steel ruler across the ports and they seem flat?  We shall see.   I will know soon if the leaking antifreeze/exhaust stud ports are better. It was always just a small sizzle leak that burned off. Thanks again Ron.