Is this A833 bell housing worth my time?

[Domino]

If you would, please check out this aftermarket bell housing...
I'd like to know the facts: what is it, will it work, etc...educate me please!

Mating this '69 23 spline A833 up to a '69 440 in a '69 charger.  It's not an R/T car or even an R/T clone, so the correct cast bell housing may not make the budget if this one will work out OK.
I have a 130 tooth flywheel, 10 7/8" fork, and 9" Z-bar.

If I use this bell, any ideas on a fork dust boot, because the stock one doesn't fit this hole?
What kind of dust cover plate does it use?

Thanks!

[bull]

I don't think that's an A833. Looks like a three speed off a truck or something. Anyway, it's hard to tell on that bellhousing without some measurements but doesn't look right at all.

EDIT-- I just noticed the lower shifter so yea, it is a 4 speed but I still don't like the looks of that bellhousing.

[Domino]

I don't think that's an A833. Looks like a three speed off a truck or something. Anyway, it's hard to tell on that bellhousing without some measurements but doesn't look right at all.

EDIT-- I just noticed the lower shifter so yea, it is a 4 speed but I still don't like the looks of that bellhousing.

I should clarify, based on the stampings on the raised pad, it is an A833, 183rd made on July 7th 1969.  Partial VIN=Put in a car in 1970 up at the detroit plant (maybe plymouth, belvedere, or coronet).
The bell housing came as extra parts with my car (in the trunk of course!) and is at least 15 years old, some race/aftermarket piece, but definatley not a chrylser part.

[elacruze]

The bell looks like a standard Lakewood unit. It will work fine, but *do not fail* to use a dial indicator on the centering hole, and for good measure run the indicator on the mounting face to be sure the face is parallel to the block. Lakewoods are rarely centered as well as factory bells.

[Domino]

The bell looks like a standard Lakewood unit. It will work fine, but *do not fail* to use a dial indicator on the centering hole, and for good measure run the indicator on the mounting face to be sure the face is parallel to the block. Lakewoods are rarely centered as well as factory bells.

Good call, thanks.

[bull]

The bell looks like a standard Lakewood unit. It will work fine, but *do not fail* to use a dial indicator on the centering hole, and for good measure run the indicator on the mounting face to be sure the face is parallel to the block. Lakewoods are rarely centered as well as factory bells.

Would you do this on a stock setup? They call for it in the FSM so it's probably a good idea but I don't have a dial indicator and I'm not sure I fully understand the procedure.

[Rolling_Thunder]

stock bells are fairly close --  aftermarket bells (lakewood especially) suck when it comes to being centered...   they have an "acceptable off center" during the machine process...   

the procedure is simple - but in my experience I have never had to modify a stock bellhousing because of any out of center issues...   I usually just run them as is

[Domino]

The bell looks like a standard Lakewood unit. It will work fine, but *do not fail* to use a dial indicator on the centering hole, and for good measure run the indicator on the mounting face to be sure the face is parallel to the block. Lakewoods are rarely centered as well as factory bells.

Would you do this on a stock setup? They call for it in the FSM so it's probably a good idea but I don't have a dial indicator and I'm not sure I fully understand the procedure.

I believe you just mount the empty bell to the block.  Affix/fab a dial indicator mount to the crankshaft and indicate along the edge of the circlular opening for the A833 bearing retainer, (perpedicular to the crankshaft centerline) as you rotate the crank.  You zero on the max or min and read the opposite....or just subtract the highest from the lowest readings to get your TIR (total indicated runout).  If that number is higher than allowed (spec ?), you need offset dowls matched to 1/2 the TIR#.  To correct it, you'd mark, the highest and lowest readings on the bell, connect the dots and clock the offset dowls to move the bell in the cardinal direction of the lowest indicated reading.

[Cooter]

Do NOT forget to run the "Motor plate" that bolts between the block and bellhousing with that Lakewood..You have been warned...Most do NOT come with this when time to sell rolls around...I WILL NOT buy one without the motor plate....

[elacruze]

Do NOT forget to run the "Motor plate" that bolts between the block and bellhousing with that Lakewood..You have been warned...Most do NOT come with this when time to sell rolls around...I WILL NOT buy one without the motor plate....

Not a bad point. Running without the safety plate opens your clutch to road mud. I see them on ebay for $40-$90, but I assume you could find them new if necessary-but that may take the economy out of the deal.

[elacruze]

The bell looks like a standard Lakewood unit. It will work fine, but *do not fail* to use a dial indicator on the centering hole, and for good measure run the indicator on the mounting face to be sure the face is parallel to the block. Lakewoods are rarely centered as well as factory bells.

Would you do this on a stock setup? They call for it in the FSM so it's probably a good idea but I don't have a dial indicator and I'm not sure I fully understand the procedure.

If you have the dial indicator, it's simple and quick to be sure you're centered. Worst case is you have to wait for the offset dowels to come in the mail.
Simple enough, really; attach a magnetic base to your flywheel and run the tip of the dial indicator around the trans locating hole in the bell by rotating the motor. Measure the nearest and farthest points from center, install offset dowel pins with the same offset as your hole and aligned along the closest/farthest axis. Piccy from my thread;


This was the final outcome after using the pins but it serves for illustration-to center the hole, you'd use a .0035" offset pin along the .007"/.000" axis.

[Domino]

Not a bad point. Running without the safety plate opens your clutch to road mud. I see them on ebay for $40-$90, but I assume you could find them new if necessary-but that may take the economy out of the deal.

Roger that!
A stock dust cover was also in my trunk! but I don't have the aftermarket lakewood plate, so that kinda gets at the "worth my time" aspect. 

Any leads on a stock bellhousing for this application and what #s would work?

[bull]

Do NOT forget to run the "Motor plate" that bolts between the block and bellhousing with that Lakewood..You have been warned...Most do NOT come with this when time to sell rolls around...I WILL NOT buy one without the motor plate....

Not a bad point. Running without the safety plate opens your clutch to road mud. I see them on ebay for $40-$90, but I assume you could find them new if necessary-but that may take the economy out of the deal.

Is this something you run with the stock bellhousing too? I was just going to bolt the flywheel to the crank, the pressure plate to the flywheel, the bellhousing to the block and the tranny to the bellhousing. Am I missing something?

[Domino]

Is this something you run with the stock bellhousing too? I was just going to bolt the flywheel to the crank, the pressure plate to the flywheel, the bellhousing to the block and the tranny to the bellhousing. Am I missing something?

Not with stock, no.  With a lakewood bell you need to bolt a round plate between the block and bell.  "block safety plate" it finishes enclosing the bell with armor for racing safety in the case the clutch comes apart, but also serves to cover the opening into the bell below the oil pan.  You don't need the safety plate with a stock bell, you just use the dust cover.

[bull]

 

[Cooter]

Sure you can run the block protector plate with a stock bellhousing Bull..Your engine will not be hurt when the clutch explodes, but can't say the same for your foot though, with a stock bellhousing...

[elacruze]

Do NOT forget to run the "Motor plate" that bolts between the block and bellhousing with that Lakewood..You have been warned...Most do NOT come with this when time to sell rolls around...I WILL NOT buy one without the motor plate....

Not a bad point. Running without the safety plate opens your clutch to road mud. I see them on ebay for $40-$90, but I assume you could find them new if necessary-but that may take the economy out of the deal.

Is this something you run with the stock bellhousing too? I was just going to bolt the flywheel to the crank, the pressure plate to the flywheel, the bellhousing to the block and the tranny to the bellhousing. Am I missing something?

You could theoretically use the engine plate with a stock bell, but it wasn't used from the factory. It wouldn't look too good either, it would stick out in places.
Here's a photo from my resto thread showing the engine plate below the oil pan;

[bull]

The bell looks like a standard Lakewood unit. It will work fine, but *do not fail* to use a dial indicator on the centering hole, and for good measure run the indicator on the mounting face to be sure the face is parallel to the block. Lakewoods are rarely centered as well as factory bells.

Would you do this on a stock setup? They call for it in the FSM so it's probably a good idea but I don't have a dial indicator and I'm not sure I fully understand the procedure.

If you have the dial indicator, it's simple and quick to be sure you're centered. Worst case is you have to wait for the offset dowels to come in the mail.
Simple enough, really; attach a magnetic base to your flywheel and run the tip of the dial indicator around the trans locating hole in the bell by rotating the motor. Measure the nearest and farthest points from center, install offset dowel pins with the same offset as your hole and aligned along the closest/farthest axis. Piccy from my thread;

This was the final outcome after using the pins but it serves for illustration-to center the hole, you'd use a .0035" offset pin along the .007"/.000" axis.

How do you find center on the crank flange? In other words, how do you attach the magnet to the flange in such a way that you know the indicator is in the middle?

[elacruze]

How do you find center on the crank flange? In other words, how do you attach the magnet to the flange in such a way that you know the indicator is in the middle?

It's much easier with the flywheel on, though I've done it on the crank flange before.
It doesn't matter where you put the base or the head of the indicator; it will rotate in a perfect circle as the crank turns. As long as you have the indicator tip on the surface you want to measure, and have enough travel short and long within the indicator stroke you can't go wrong. I usually go around twice or so to make sure the indicator base won't fall off or a rough surface snag the tip, and if it looks the same twice then I pick the lowest reading and zero the indicator there. Rotate once marking your reading at every 1/4 turn; rotate again, marking every 1/8 turn and checking at the 1/4 marks to be sure nothing's moved.

The most difficult part of the whole setup is getting the indicator in the hole; mine's  a bit large and won't fit entirely in the hole so I have to move it inside or outside a bit to get the tip on the circle. A little smaller dial would work better.

[Domino]

It doesn't matter where you put the base or the head of the indicator

2nd that.