Who's Put A Windshield In And Knows How To Do It?

[69DodgeCharger]

Just wondering if anybody's done it themselves and how it turned out. And if successful how did you install it and with what sealants/tools/materials? I have a brand new gasket and a perfect original windshield. The glass man quoted me $135 and "assured" me their tech woudl be familiar with the windshield type and style and would have no problem with it.

[Silver R/T]

sounds good to me

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Spend the $$...worth the lack of aggravation 

[69DodgeCharger]

Spend the $$...worth the lack of aggravation 

I was already pretty much figuring on that but thougth I would ask first.

[GTXtreme]

have it done its worth it.  my first attempt took me over 4 hours and ended up tearing an $80 gasket and two small cratches on the a-pillar and then after all that i had to buy another gasket so just save yourself some money and aggrivation

[tan top]

yeah done mine also  ,  really a two man job  as the glass slides down & original glass is heavy , quite straight forward just remember the sealer before you put the  gasket in , also use new one     but unless you have done this sort of thing before , get a glass guy  

[Tilar]

I've done them in the past but I'd spend the money... But then again I take most of my cars to someone else to change the oil. 

[twodko]

Spend the cash.....you'll be happy you did. Let us know. good luck.

Tom

[Ryan]

Its really not hard, just need to be careful and patient.  I used silicone on the gasket to frame of the car, then LOTS of soapy water to help slide the windshield into place. The only tool I remember using when I did my last one was a plastic panel popper tool. Kinda looks like a thin plastic stick that tapers down on the edges. Took me about 2 hours and I am far from a pro IMO. However $135 to have them do it isnt bad. I did mine myself because I could not get a shop to do it at my house or one that I felt realy knew what they were doing.

[69DodgeCharger]

Its really not hard, just need to be careful and patient.  I used silicone on the gasket to frame of the car, then LOTS of soapy water to help slide the windshield into place. The only tool I remember using when I did my last one was a plastic panel popper tool. Kinda looks like a thin plastic stick that tapers down on the edges. Took me about 2 hours and I am far from a pro IMO. However $135 to have them do it isnt bad. I did mine myself because I could not get a shop to do it at my house or one that I felt realy knew what they were doing.

This was the method I have heard of before Using dishsoap as a lubricant to slide the glass down in the channel and then using the plastic glass wedge to lift the sealing lip of the gasket up and over the outer surface of the windshield. At least that's how I think it is done? My buddy was wondering why you couldn't just do the rope trick with it like a rear pickup window?

If I remember right I read that you attach the gasket to the car body with the sealant, pushing the lower part of the gasket that runs along the bottom of the windshield down onto the metal pinchweld. Also I remember right there is a channel in the gasket specifically for this but it has been a long time since I read it.

[resq302]

If I remember correctly, there was some kind of sealer or butyl tape that was on the lower channel.  Does anyone have any pics of where this would go?  I am getting ready to reinstall the windshield and want to make sure the windshield company seals it up right.  I also noticed some flat open areas where the metal dash frame meets the cowl area.  What was those areas for?  Prior to removing my windshield, I had water leaks coming in around where the headlight switch area was and also on the pass side just to the right of the glove box.  Im thinking that my problem was with the leaks was that there was no sealant or butyl tape on the lower chanel.

[Charger-Bodie]

If I remember correctly, there was some kind of sealer or butyl tape that was on the lower channel.  Does anyone have any pics of where this would go?  I am getting ready to reinstall the windshield and want to make sure the windshield company seals it up right.  I also noticed some flat open areas where the metal dash frame meets the cowl area.  What was those areas for?  Prior to removing my windshield, I had water leaks coming in around where the headlight switch area was and also on the pass side just to the right of the glove box.  Im thinking that my problem was with the leaks was that there was no sealant or butyl tape on the lower chanel.

The stuff for sealing around the gasket was Liquid buytl. You could push tape around to seal it , but the liquid stuff can be had in a caulk tube and flows where it needs to very well.  The job can also be done with urethane,however I like the liquid buytl better myself.

[Belgium R/T -68]

My first glassguy wanted to use a roap,what kind of method is that?

Per

[bill440rt]

Per,
Using "rope", or a cord, is just a method used to help fit the windshield within the gasket.

Personally, I left installing the glass to a pro. I didn't want to mess with it, risk breakage, or leakage. Done once, done right, and worth the small amount it cost to just have them install it. Mine was also installed with urethane vs liquid butyl. I'm really not certain of the pros & cons of each, but it was just the method my glass installer preferred.

Here's a link to how it was done in my car:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,39415.0.html

[69DodgeCharger]

Mine was also installed with urethane vs liquid butyl. I'm really not certain of the pros & cons of each, but it was just the method my glass installer preferred.

Here's a link to how it was done in my car:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,39415.0.html

The glass shop told me they aren't allowed to use butyl anymore for safety reasons. He said they would be using urethane also.

[NMike]

the glass shop is paranoid of lawsuits.

the newer cars all have urethane that holds the glass in place. the windshield is also a support member of the roof.

an old charger uses a rubber seal to hold the window in, and butyl as a sealant

some cheap guys used butyl instead of urethane on newer cars. in an accident the glass just fell out and bad things happened as a result. now most glass shops are scared to use butyl in almost anything for fear of an accident and the windshield coming out.

[oldgold69]

 its worth the money if he guarantees the installation not to leak. but is there  a guarantee if he breaks the glass he'll replace it  usually they don't     as far as the rope trick that is when you install the window rubber into the pinchweld with the glass in the rubber that doesn't work well on the mopars  work great on old vw bugs or old gm pickups 

[b5blue]

3M Bedding and Glazing Compound part # 08509 just like factory. It goes between body and gasket, then the gasket and glass hence "bedding" (to body) and "glazing" (to glass) Many newer cars use the glass as a stiffener for the body shell that's why urethane is used to bond. Old Mopars use butyl to seal for the different expansion rates of the body, rubber and glass.(it stays flexible)  From my hard experience it will leak if the glass is not sealed to the rubber sooner or later.    It's in the FSM. The worry for me would not be the urethane leaking but if a repair is needed getting rid of all the old urethane to effect repairs. 

[Charger-Bodie]

Another reason that the glass guys have urethane pounded into there heads is that the windshield is an important part of the air bag system on newer cars. if the airbag blows and the w/s isn't there or is blows out the airbag wont be directed to the right area of the the passengers body . Very impartant on modern cars......Not so much on older cars.

[resq302]

Was there extra bedding and glazing compound put on the lower channel of the windshield to prevent leaks there?  I seem to remember seeing somewhere about putting a strip of something down in the bottom channel.

[Charger-Bodie]

there are only 3 small tabs that the gasket secures to on the bottom. If you don't use some kind of sealer there it will leak.

[Rob R]

I run a sealant along the bottom of the channel to seal the gasket to the body and also a VERY THIN bead inside the window channel in the gasket as most re pop gaskets allow water to pass under the glass...
I use hickory sticks (like a thin version of a construction pencil) or plastic sticks 1/8 thick or even body putty applactors...Takes me on average 10 min to install a window by myself..
lay the glass in the bottom...soapy water on the sides work the gasket up from the bottom to almost the top corners .. then the top from the center out to the edges using soapy water...you'll have to push the gasket out from the inside while still working the gasket from the outside when it comes to the corners...once you get the top corner in the rest of the side will fall in place...that's the way I do it...

Now you have to send me $10.00 every time one of you guys installs a window from now on... I'll know...I'm kinda like Santa that way...if you guys don't send me the money your window will crack

[b5blue]

The bedding and glazing goes 360*. At the bottom a wider bead is fine. 

[resq302]

there are only 3 small tabs that the gasket secures to on the bottom. If you don't use some kind of sealer there it will leak.

After checking into this, I noticed that openings under the 3 small metal tabs actually go into the cowl area which drains out through the rocker panels.  There is about 4 or 5 recessed areas where the dash meet the cowl area that are fairly large holes that go into the interior of the car.  This is probably where the water leaks come from.  I am thinking of running a strip of butyl tape along where the dash meets the lower windshield channel to help prevent a leak.

[b5blue]

The tape may press out on the gasket as it will not smash fat like the sealant.

[resq302]

The tape is a very thin strip, maybe 1/8" if that in thickness.  Worse comes to worse, I could always smooth it out also.

[Charger-Bodie]

The tape is a very thin strip, maybe 1/8" if that in thickness.  Worse comes to worse, I could always smooth it out also.

......But why not just use the proper sealant?  Are you worried about mess? Or?

[resq302]

Because the last time they put the windshield in back in 200 or 2001, they sealed it all up with urethane around the glass and around the gasket to the body and it still leaked on both floors.  I figured this way, it would be nice and dry!

[Charger-Bodie]

Because the last time they put the windshield in back in 200 or 2001, they sealed it all up with urethane around the glass and around the gasket to the body and it still leaked on both floors.  I figured this way, it would be nice and dry!

Im not trying to belittle you or anything . Im just trying to wrap my head around what your planning.

[b5blue]

I think some it depends on use, mine is 365-24-7 rain or shine daily driver and Safelite Co. never got it right. (my original glass was milky) Long story short: in the past my dash looked like a waterfall, new glass and gasket "professionally installed" incorrectly. Later the "painter" who paid someone to pull it (to check for rust holes) bowed my vent slots leaning on it (painter also sandblasted my 1/4 windows and back glass) Nobody works on my car but me now. (by the way, there were no rust holes for water to leak through)  I say do whatever you want, none care as much as you do!   

[resq302]

Because the last time they put the windshield in back in 200 or 2001, they sealed it all up with urethane around the glass and around the gasket to the body and it still leaked on both floors.  I figured this way, it would be nice and dry!

Im not trying to belittle you or anything . Im just trying to wrap my head around what your planning.

Im planning on having the pros put the windshield and new gasket in but also planning on them not being able to prevent the leaks which is the reason for trying to seal up the metal dash to lower channel prior to them coming in to do it.

[Charger-Bodie]

Because the last time they put the windshield in back in 200 or 2001, they sealed it all up with urethane around the glass and around the gasket to the body and it still leaked on both floors.  I figured this way, it would be nice and dry!

Im not trying to belittle you or anything . Im just trying to wrap my head around what your planning.

Im planning on having the pros put the windshield and new gasket in but also planning on them not being able to prevent the leaks which is the reason for trying to seal up the metal dash to lower channel prior to them coming in to do it.

Ah,That makes more sense.

[69DodgeCharger]

Part of the reason I posted this was because I am worried about an improper installation which will cause leakage and problems later. I wanted to make sure that the guy who installed it knows what he's doing, so I needed to know a little bit more about how it goes down. I don't want to have to do this twice.

[resq302]

Part of the reason I posted this was because I am worried about an improper installation which will cause leakage and problems later. I wanted to make sure that the guy who installed it knows what he's doing, so I needed to know a little bit more about how it goes down. I don't want to have to do this twice.

Been there, done that!

[58pwrwgn]

       Make sure you ask the glass company if they have someone with experience with old cars. Make sure you clean any mold release residue off your new gasket and clean the pinchweld as well, if you what the selant to stick. I to would use the 3m bedding material to seal the gasket to the body and you will probably need to request it. I think most young installers use urethane because its all they have in their van. Also if you have a leak look at the wiper posts as a possible source as well.

[resq302]

Im in the process of rebuilding the wiper pivot posts as we speak.  I got the Schumacher kit and all I need to do is reinstall it.