figured out the gremlin again.

[70charginglizard]

As usual it was that stupid bulkhead connector.

When I pushed it in for painting I didn't make a good connection after pushed it back out for reconnection.

I still think there is another short somewhere in the taped up section between the firewall and the ignition key.

The one wire harness I have yet to replace....The imfamous dash harness. Thats gonna cost me but It really does need to be done.

I really need to think about doing that one. It's always causing me grief.

Fixed for now and the car is running again.

[69bronzeT5]

What exactly is it doing?

[70charginglizard]

What exactly is it doing?

It was that blue ignition wire where it comes out of the bulkhead on the engine side. removed it from the bulkhead connector and ran it thru so I could get to it from the engine side if it has any type of issues.

Well where I spliced it I taped around it with electrical tape and the electrical tape got all gooey and cause the two connectors not to make contact. So I cleaned it all up and it is all better now.

No more problems. 

[69bronzeT5]

Ah okay. Glad to hear it's fixed Kelly! My Duster had some electrical issues. Turned out a missing ground strap was the cause of it all!

[70charginglizard]

Ah okay. Glad to hear it's fixed Kelly! My Duster had some electrical issues. Turned out a missing ground strap was the cause of it all!

Thats pretty funnny man because when I started clearing the firewall componenets off to do the engine bay painting I noticed that when we did the six pack we actually forgot to connect back up the grounding strap to the motor there.

Good thing I did that paint job or I would have been chasing that issue as well,. 

[69bronzeT5]

Ah okay. Glad to hear it's fixed Kelly! My Duster had some electrical issues. Turned out a missing ground strap was the cause of it all!

Thats pretty funnny man because when I started clearing the firewall componenets off to do the engine bay painting I noticed that when we did the six pack we actually forgot to connect back up the grounding strap to the motor there.

Good thing I did that paint job or I would have been chasing that issue as well,. 

That's exactly what was missing, the ground strap from the block to the firewall. It fixed all the light problems and it also fixed the issue of it not starting sometimes with the key.

[bakerhillpins]

Well where I spliced it I taped around it with electrical tape and the electrical tape got all gooey and cause the two connectors not to make contact. So I cleaned it all up and it is all better now.

Did you use a splicing connector or just twist the wires together and use tape to hold it? The former will last, the latter will degrade into the same situation you had before.

[ipstrategies]

Is it best to twist and solder joints or use a connector? I am doing a little wiring adjustments to my harness while the dash is out of car.

[b5blue]

For permanent splices I use crimp connectors I get at boating stores. The insulating tube is heat shrink with sealant inside. You crimp then heat it up and the insulator shrinks down as the sealant melts encapsulating the whole thing and gluing the wires together. I've even used them in the bilge area of boats and they can live underwater fine. Just make certain the wires are clean before you start and I have never had on fail, you can't even pull it apart. I have splices in my car that are 15 years old and still perfect.   

[bakerhillpins]

 

I have always read/been told that mechanical connections for wiring are better electrically than soldering them. Has something to do with the metal to metal contact and the deformity that occurs with the crimp at the area of contact.

The insulating tube with sealant inside is also a very good idea.    Plumbing places may have these too. I used a butt version of that splice to wire up my new submersible well pump. The splice sits under water and works fine.

[440charger68]

haha i got too many gremlins, they love messin with my car

[ipstrategies]

I will have to visit a boat store, Do they sell in small packs and different sizes?

[b5blue]

Yes! Ancor Products....."thermoretractables".....(Be sure they are labeled that) 

[74Rallye]

Now I'm confused. I thought that twisting, soldering and heat shrink were the best way to join 2 wires. I've always avoided the convenience of crimp connectors because I thought they provided a lower quality connection over the long haul, especially for higher current connections. I do know from experience that solder will often crack on terminals mounted to a circuit board in cars from vibrations.

[70charginglizard]

I think the key is shring wrap to protect it from the elements.

[b5blue]

Flux core solder is acid (the flux) and MUST be cleaned after use or the acid will continue eat at everything. That could be the problem for some. Having made harnesses in the USAF and worked on many boats I found issues of mechanical connection, corrosion, and aging dissimilar metals electrolytic action (ever notice how fast steel will corrode against aluminum). If you have a good mechanical attachment to the wires insulator with heat shrink tubing so no stress is put on the conductor it protects the connection (along with proper supporting) if the connection is tight it conducts best lowering resistance and using quality connectors made of copper or brass (possibly plated) not the cheap steel one's you get a big pile of for 3.99. Look at a factory connector the crimp runs up onto the wires insulator and all components are the same copper. Soldering is fine if the wires are already tightly wrapped together then cleaned completely and shrink wrapped. The devil is in the details. I also use De-Oxit by Caig Laboratory's it really helps keep old connections working. Check it out on Techni-Tools site.