What are some good mods I should do for my car? (would love Pro Tourers input)

[elanmars]

Mainly suspension but anything to make it ride smoother, better handling, etc. This is my daily driver and I want it to be solid through and through. My car is mostly stock at the moment and I want to change that, doesn't ride as great as it could be (the 14' tires don't help much either but that will be changed soon with disc brakes and bigger wheels/tires).

Any recommendations, from the cheapest "good" mods to reasonably priced. This will be an ongoing, driving project for me and hope to keep on improving it as I go along (unless I end up selling the car if someone gives me an offer I can't refuse and I happen to find a decent 68-69 to replace it with).

I've heard good things about Edelbrock shocks. That's a start for me. I also hear a lot about Firm Feel steering boxes. Anything I could do for the body to shake less at higher speeds? and I'm not talking crazy speeds here, around the 70-80 range. Any body stiffening stuff recommended?

[69bronzeT5]

Regarding body stiffening, I'd personally install subframe connectors. A bunch of places make them but I've heard very good things about XV's connectors. Also, you can't go wrong getting any of XV's chassis stiffening things like their inner fender braces. The connectors and braces require welding though. Firm Feel makes some amazing parts so you won't loose by getting anything from them. Good front and rear sway bars are a good thing to add also. Firm Feel and Hellwig make some good bars. Like you, I've heard very good things about Edelbrock Performer shocks and they will be going in all of my Mopars. Now I'm not positive about this one but I've heard bigger sized torsion bars help also but don't quote me on that one. Hope this helps!

[Foreman72]

i would look at these two for starters...

http://www.xvmotorsports.com/

http://www.p-s-t.com/

http://www.firmfeel.com/

the frame connectors (and torque boxes) are relatively cheap and will help a lot...you may also want to check into using poly bushings in some places...and depending on what engine you have, beefing up your t bars...

i have a 72 with plans similar to those you have...i'm reinforcing my k frame, rebuilding the front end with a pst kit and adding .96 t bars...the back will have HD 6 leaf springs with edelbrock shocks and sway bars on the front and back...but thats only my plan...its bound to change when working/buying time comes around...

[68X426]

Regarding body stiffening, I'd personally install subframe connectors. A bunch of places make them but I've heard very good things about XV's connectors. Also, you can't go wrong getting any of XV's chassis stiffening things like their inner fender braces. The connectors and braces require welding though. Firm Feel makes some amazing parts so you won't loose by getting anything from them. Good front and rear sway bars are a good thing to add also. Firm Feel and Hellwig make some good bars. Like you, I've heard very good things about Edelbrock Performer shocks and they will be going in all of my Mopars. Now I'm not positive about this one but I've heard bigger sized torsion bars help also but don't quote me on that one. Hope this helps!

You are on the right track also with the tires and brakes. Big torsion bars did wonders for both my Road Runner and Charger, especially the RR with all the up-front weight of the Hemi.

[NorwayCharger]

Call Bill, he will help you
http://www.reillymotorsports.com/

[Hemidog]

Regarding body stiffening, I'd personally install subframe connectors. A bunch of places make them but I've heard very good things about XV's connectors. Also, you can't go wrong getting any of XV's chassis stiffening things like their inner fender braces. The connectors and braces require welding though. Firm Feel makes some amazing parts so you won't loose by getting anything from them. Good front and rear sway bars are a good thing to add also. Firm Feel and Hellwig make some good bars. Like you, I've heard very good things about Edelbrock Performer shocks and they will be going in all of my Mopars. Now I'm not positive about this one but I've heard bigger sized torsion bars help also but don't quote me on that one. Hope this helps!

You are on the right track also with the tires and brakes. Big torsion bars did wonders for both my Road Runner and Charger, especially the RR with all the up-front weight of the Hemi.

What size did you go with? over 1 inch?

[68X426]

1 inch installed. I think the original Hemi bar was .92. The ride "feels" right to me, not stiff at all. Firm Feel has several bars larger, but then the street ride begins to be compromised (so I'm told).

[Hemidog]

I'm tearing into my front suspension at the moment, and don't really know what bars to go with, .92, .94, .96 or larger..

Maybe 1 inch won't be too stiff after all.

[HPP]

As a daily driver, you won't be able to afford alot of down time doing trick stuff, so I'll keep my recommendations simply and limited to weekend type upgrades.

Body bracing; this is the foundation of it all and is necessary and I'd recommend it for any type of car. XV has a nice kit and is very good. You can buy it in pieces and add as time and funds allows. At a minumum, I'd say torque boxes. Subframe connectors, even the ones that don't touch the floor, help a lot too.  Figure around $100 per unit your adding.

Wheels/tires; this will be your single biggest expense and improvement. The advancements in tire tech since the heydays of 14" is huge. At the least, you should look at some 15" to expand the choices. 17" tires seem to have the broadest choice of tires, grip, and price, but cost more in initial wheel purchases compared to the 15" ones you can score at swap meets. This can be a few hundred to a few thousand dollars.

Suspension; you didn't say what engine you have, but 1" t-bars are a very good starting point. Combine with an XHD style leaf spring, 1.125 front sway bar and a .75 frame hung or .95 axle hung rear sway bar and you hanging tough in the turns. FWIW, most the XV kits start at 1.12 and 1.18 t-bar sizes. For shocks, I've heard good things about E-brocks on street cars, but if you going to get into serious driving in autcross or lap times, they fade and feel weird. They are certainly a step up from basic off the shelf auto parts store units, but not race quality.  Singel adjustable untis are the ticket if you use your car on multiple venues or step up to the big t-bars. Since shocks control the action of the suspension, you want as good a shock as you can afford and cheaping out here will give you cheap results. Figure $500-1500+ total for this depending on source of parts. Sway bar you can get cheap at swap meets, shocks you'll want new. Other parts vary slightly from place to place.

Brakes; upgrade to the stock 11.75 disc up front. great stopping power at a value price. As good as some of the more wiz-bang expensive units out there. rear drums are fine for a driver. $200-1000, again depending on sources.

Steering; Firm Feel boxes are nice and replace the light stock feel with a more modern feel. While not a direct relationship to better handling, they make things feel better. I wouldn't bother with bigger tie rods or anything like that. $400

Bushings; poly does firm things up, but rubber will do too. I prefer poly, but not sure if your going to rebuild yoususpension so it may be just as well to go with what you have for now. You will want to change the upper control arm bushings for offset units from Moog. These allow you to gain additional caster which will help with stability at speed and return to center feel of the steering and do it for $60 instead of the $300 tubular arms will cost you. Around $100-200 if you go thte full kit.

Alignment; ditch the stock specs. Set the ride height where you like it with the tires you end up with. Set it with the nose slightly down, then tell the shop not to mess with the height. Ask for as much positive caster as possible up to 5* balanced against -.5 to -1* negative camber. Set total toe to 1/16 in. $50-100

[elanmars]

As a daily driver, you won't be able to afford alot of down time doing trick stuff, so I'll keep my recommendations simply and limited to weekend type upgrades.

Body bracing; this is the foundation of it all and is necessary and I'd recommend it for any type of car. XV has a nice kit and is very good. You can buy it in pieces and add as time and funds allows. At a minumum, I'd say torque boxes. Subframe connectors, even the ones that don't touch the floor, help a lot too.  Figure around $100 per unit your adding.

Wheels/tires; this will be your single biggest expense and improvement. The advancements in tire tech since the heydays of 14" is huge. At the least, you should look at some 15" to expand the choices. 17" tires seem to have the broadest choice of tires, grip, and price, but cost more in initial wheel purchases compared to the 15" ones you can score at swap meets. This can be a few hundred to a few thousand dollars.

Suspension; you didn't say what engine you have, but 1" t-bars are a very good starting point. Combine with an XHD style leaf spring, 1.125 front sway bar and a .75 frame hung or .95 axle hung rear sway bar and you hanging tough in the turns. FWIW, most the XV kits start at 1.12 and 1.18 t-bar sizes. For shocks, I've heard good things about E-brocks on street cars, but if you going to get into serious driving in autcross or lap times, they fade and feel weird. They are certainly a step up from basic off the shelf auto parts store units, but not race quality.  Singel adjustable untis are the ticket if you use your car on multiple venues or step up to the big t-bars. Since shocks control the action of the suspension, you want as good a shock as you can afford and cheaping out here will give you cheap results. Figure $500-1500+ total for this depending on source of parts. Sway bar you can get cheap at swap meets, shocks you'll want new. Other parts vary slightly from place to place.

Brakes; upgrade to the stock 11.75 disc up front. great stopping power at a value price. As good as some of the more wiz-bang expensive units out there. rear drums are fine for a driver. $200-1000, again depending on sources.

Steering; Firm Feel boxes are nice and replace the light stock feel with a more modern feel. While not a direct relationship to better handling, they make things feel better. I wouldn't bother with bigger tie rods or anything like that. $400

Bushings; poly does firm things up, but rubber will do too. I prefer poly, but not sure if your going to rebuild yoususpension so it may be just as well to go with what you have for now. You will want to change the upper control arm bushings for offset units from Moog. These allow you to gain additional caster which will help with stability at speed and return to center feel of the steering and do it for $60 instead of the $300 tubular arms will cost you. Around $100-200

Alignment; ditch the stock specs. Set the ride height where you like it with the tires you end up with. Set it with the nose slightly down, then tell the shop not to mess with the height. Ask for as much positive caster as possible up to 5* balanced against -.5 to 1* negative camber. Set total toe to 1/16 in. $50-100

wow this is just what I needed!!!! super awesome, thank you thank you thank you. My engine is a 400. Right now I'm getting extremely poor mileage too, like 7-8 mpg, so as soon as I get it back from having it painted, will have to see whats up. I'll have to ask in one of the other forums how to make it more efficient with the gas mileage.

[68X426]

MPG of 7-8 is not out of the norm if you have low gears, drive in stop-and-go traffic, and/or have a foot that likes to hot rod. Measure the Fun per Gallon, not just the mpg. 

[elanmars]

^I usually would not mind, except now I'm down to just the Charger and don't have the income to get another car, plus having a new baby, new school semester, etc. So I have to be as tight as I can be.

Getting rid of the Charger is out of the question though, I'm hard headed that way..haha...it's like that sticker "my wife, yes...my dog, maybe...my dodge, never!!"

[HPP]

Your welcome.

Mileage wise, make sure your getting ignition advance, make sure your fuel mix is leaned out. Otherwise, compression is the best way to not only increase power, but increase mileage. The 440 in my truck averages 13-14 mpg with 4:10 gears, auto trans, and a 750 4bbl. But, it also runs lots of compression and is probably on the limits of pump gas  without detonating.

[elanmars]

^I don't know anything about compression-what exactly gets done and what would I have to do to keep it up? I'm still very much a newbie when it comes to engines/the mechanical side and need help in that area. If I take it to someone, how would I go about doing compression? thanks.

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Hotchkis sway bars will help. Definitly go with the edelbrock shocks and subframe connectors.

get the firm feel fast ratio pitman and idler arms along with a stage 2 or 3 steering box. Thats what I'm planning on doing next month to get the steering feeling better. 

[Dukes69]

I would start with what you can afford.  I've got some US car tool connectors coming and a firm feel box.  It's a start.  My plan was the XV stage 1 stuff, but I don't think I can keep the money saved for long enough to plop it all down at once.  So I'm probably going to do some firm feel bars (1"+), Hotchkis sway bars, undecided on rear leafs or shocks.  Another good thing you can do is keep the weight down.  Not sure where on our cars, but every little bit helps.

[bull]

Steering; Firm Feel boxes are nice and replace the light stock feel with a more modern feel. While not a direct relationship to better handling, they make things feel better. I wouldn't bother with bigger tie rods or anything like that. $400

I'll state the opposite and say I would go with the larger C-body tie rod setup, especially if your current setup is ready to be replaced. In many cases you can get a Moog C-body tie rod set locally for less than $100.

[HPP]

See, I think in a competition environment, like oval track, where other cars are leaning on you, there is an advantage in having something that can absorb higher tensile loads and better resist bending. In regular driving, solo, or non-contact racing, use of the minimum to be safe is fine. Since a 9/16 rod end can absorb over 28,000 psi, or about 7 G of load from a 4000# car, the nearly 38,000 tensile load of an 11/16 is simply overkill.

Now, flex in the factory style split sleeve tie rod sleeve could be occurring. To eliminate this flex point, simply converting to a solid tie rod sleeve eliminates the potential for flex.

[motorcitydak]

Hotchkis TVS, it will be bad ass. That is what I am going to use on my car except Ill need the '70 front sway bar and am using different connectors. Also Im going to have a linked rear axle so I cannot use their leaf springs. But check out Hotchkis.net and the E-Max Challenger

[autodynamics]

Great suggestions all the way around . I would add to this list a set of 2"drop spindles. You want proper geometry with an aggressive lowered stance. Since I did them it has to be one of top ten upgrades I've done.....and I've done allot......

[elanmars]

I need to re-read this thread, as I have a new '69 now that's far more complete, better, smoother ride. it was one of travis' cars. i'll do the disc brake conversion some time this year and maybe upgrade the wheels/tires as well as some of the suggestions here. love that this car is white but with black tinted windows and the black stripe.

thanks a bunch guys!!

[1968_Charger]

im interested in making the my charger drive better and ive also been wanting to lower the front with the torsion bars, but doing that causes the car to get bouncy right? reading this made me a little confused.

Alignment; ditch the stock specs. Set the ride height where you like it with the tires you end up with. Set it with the nose slightly down, then tell the shop not to mess with the height. Ask for as much positive caster as possible up to 5* balanced against -.5 to 1* negative camber. Set total toe to 1/16 in. $50-100

so by doing this what is accomplished?

[HPP]

It depends. Lowering the car via turning down the torsion bars reduces control arm travel which may have the car hitting the bump stops more easily if you have the original sized t-bars. This reduction in travel may not allow the shock enough travel length to control the motion either. If you have bigger than stock bars, or if you use lowering spindles, than it may not be an issue. Also, if you just turning it down an inch or two, it is not a problem. When you pushing 3,4, or more inches of drop, it becomes a problem.

The changes in wheel alignment increase directional stability at speed, improve tracking at speed, and increase return to center motion of the steering wheel, and allow better tire contact patches during cornering. The stock specs also tended to put the car in a nose high attitude which is not desireable from a performance nor appearance standpoint. The reason why you would want to do this is because the original alignment specs were for narrow, hard, bias ply tires, which are not very tolerante of a wide range of adjsutment without exhibiting bad wear and behavior. Radials tires, on the other hand, are a more forgiving and tolerant construction method that can use a wider range of adjustment.

[1968_Charger]

so if i wanted to lower my torsion bars then should i play around with different heights until its driving and sitting like i want it to, then take it to be aligned and just tell them what you wrote on here?

[HPP]

First step is to get the wheels and tires you want. Then set the ride heigth you want, then have the alignment set up. Keep in mind that as you get lower in a mopar, it becomes more difficult to get postive caster. So, while you can ask for those specs at the alignment shop, they may not be able to hit them spot on and may come back with an alternate they can hit. Just remember that you want as much postive caster as possible, with slightly negative to zero camber and minimal toe. The big rub with mopars is the interrelationship of caster and camber and as you increase one, you may reduce the other so it becomes a trade off very quickly on what you can acheive.