wiper switch knob removal

[ipstrategies]

Ok I am trying to separate the bezel from cluster and the only thing holding it is the Wiper Knob. It has a hole but no screw or allen. Do these just slide off or is there a trick.

[Nacho-RT74]

it has an allen... very small one... I can't say the size. I have mine at center console glovebox. that metalic stuff on pic it is in fact the allen screw

[A383Wing]

Yea...looks like an Allen set screw to me as well.....1/8" is the size I think

[Nacho-RT74]

waaay smaller

[ipstrategies]

I got it the allen wrench was so little I can not see what size it was.


Can I test the clock with a 12 volt source with one connection to the male connector and the other to base of clock. My second hand is broken and I want to test the other clock before switching?

[Nacho-RT74]

I got it the allen wrench was so little I can not see what size it was.

same reason I couln't tell you wich one it was 

Can I test the clock with a 12 volt source with one connection to the male connector and the other to base of clock. My second hand is broken and I want to test the other clock before switching?

Yes. ground the chassis and feed the prong positive. Just an impulse... doesn need to keep feeded. The short will wind the system linked to a breaker point to work for at least 40 to 1 minute. Is an electromechanical system.

9 volts batt will work too

[71_Charger_R/T]

Nacho.... I've got a couple of clocks that spin like a fan when they are given 12 volts. Is there a simple fix for that?  I don't mean to hi-jack this thread but figured if others try their clocks and get this result, the answer would be here.

[Nacho-RT74]

you mean the Charger clock ? clock is not winded by electricity. Imposible to go faster because that. Is a regular clock mechanism with springs, gears and everything. The power just winds up the spring to make it work. Power feeds breaker points inside the clock that when making contact causes a short that pushes out the systems. that it happens every 40 to 60 seconds, or even 80 seconds ( you can hear the that click on the car when that happens )

THEN when adjusting/reseting the hour back or forth, spring is more tensioned or released to make it go faster or slower. Of course spring and speed won't be adjusted at once, really everytime you adjust untill the moment is on right speed what will mean you don't need to make big adjustments that you don't have to adjust anymore. Is an autoadjust system.

If clock is going TOO FAST, then make a complete 12 hours turn around back. That will help on get the right speed faster.

Don't tell is going faster because the needle looks to move fast. Seconds needle doesn't have 60 steps, it has more steps, maybe every half of second, so it apparently goes faster because you don't see it stopped at every second step.

Normally all regular car clocks work on that way. You are saving on this way power consumption by the clock, just small impulses/shorts imposible to dicharge the battery

[ipstrategies]

Well
I can not get either one to move. I hear one of them making a little noise but does not move. I was using a small trickle charger (like you leave on car to keep battery charged.) When you say it only needs impulse should the second hand move as soon as power? are there any other things to test?

[Nacho-RT74]

yes, second needle should move as soon you heard the click.

If you heard the click and didn't move, the clock could have some mechanical damage. Some of these problems are just saved by oiling. Maybe any clock tech at your place will be able to fix it cheap if is something else

If you didn't heard a click ( more like a TAK... because is kinda louder LOL ), is the breaker points system what is damaged, and that's harder to home repair. Is what makes to everybody get a quartz upgrade.

[Nacho-RT74]

keep it feeded for some minutes just in case is just the seconds needle what is not working but yes the rest of the clock. you should heard the "tak" once in a while ( as stated around every minute ).

[ipstrategies]

well the extra with good second hand has mech. problems as I cannot set hands with knobs.
the one in cluster has broken hand and make no noise but the hands can be set. What is upgrade and how hard to get hands off?

[268RTs4ME]

on top of you light switch is a button you push down then the whole knob with stem will come out of light switch.

[Nacho-RT74]

on top of you light switch is a button you push down then the whole knob with stem will come out of light switch.

yes thats the lights knob, but he was talking about the wiper knob. Allen's deal is just to 71s I think, maybe some 72s too... lates were simple plugged in

[Nacho-RT74]

hands ( needles ), are simple slightly presure in on to the center rotation sleeves what drives them. Piece of cake, but taken off with care. Seconds is the only one what is plugged in into the center with a small stud.

sorry, dunno how explain it better.

did you removed the clock setting knob ?

[ipstrategies]

nacho yes I removed the adjust knob.
I will just leave the current clock for now. I am truing to get things cleaned up while the dash is out. I want to paint the dash frame, column and dash pad(that is black) but the paint they mixed is not correct and I am not about trying to buy again. It is the Chestnut (brown) and the I an almost flat finish and since I need to paint dash pad also need special paint.  I only have a few weeks to get it all ready and back together.