Buffing moldings

[Belgium R/T -68]

I have bought a buffingkit from Eastwood, a 1/3 hp 3600 rpm with all the compounds and stuff included. Did have to build myself a trafo
since it runs on 110 volt and we use 220V. Now I never did this kind of work using a motor before so I was wondering if there
is anything special to consider for a good result, any riscs that maybe causes a poor result. It's a 3 step buffing and I have watched the DVD
included but on those ones it always looks so easy.

Per

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

First off I'd suggest, looking at your buffer, is an arbor extender to bring the buff away from the motor so yo have room to move the piece around.

Second is a good pair of leather gloves (metal gets hot) that are heavy duty but still offer flexibility so you can still "feel" the piece.  Goggles & an apron are musts as well.

Next is practice, practice, practice using a scrap piece that you dont mind making a 100mph projectile till you get the feel of how much pressure & which direction you move the piece to "cut" and "polish"
Watching DVD's & reading instructions is nothing like getting the feel of the art.  You need practice to know when the rouge is breaking down, when to clean the buff, how much pressure to use, which direction to move the piece etc.

lastly... BE CAREFUL!!!

[tripleblkr/t]

When you need supplies again go to www.tarheelparts.com . They are very helpfull and when you have any questions just give them a call. They carry all the supplies you will need. I like to use there cheap cotton gloves, once they get really dirty I just throw them away as I like to keep clean gloves on when I'm buffing. Having a shield on is a good idea as well, one of the guys I work with got his face cut open with a trim ring and he was only wearing safety glasses. You will defiantly need a dust mask as well as you wont want to breath in all that crap. Sometimes heating a part up will help, and will keep black compound off the part. Just take a look at the web site and you'll see all kinds of goodies for buffing. I use an expander wheel to make short work of deep scratches on trim, I think eastwoods sells these as well. They work very well but be carefull and get use to it on some junk trim first as you can put davits in you piece very easy.

[Belgium R/T -68]

Thanks guys   Have a lot of trim to practice on luckely and ofcourse safety first.

Only thing, what do you mean with "davits"?

Per

Does the temprature in my garage have an influence? It's just above the freezingpoint.

[Troy]

Only thing, what do you mean with "davits"?

I think that's "divots" - like what happens when I try to hit a golf ball.

Troy

[twodko]

Hi Per and Merry Christmas to you and your family.

I have just begun polishing all my trim. I use an 8" buffing wheel and the "finishing" compound stick. My trim is in good shape so I just need to bring back that "new car" shine.   "NOT Just 6T9 CHGR" offers sage advise: use a practice piece, take you time, mask, googles/face shield and gloves. I use nitrile gloves to keep the pieces clean and finger print free plus they offer a good grip and "feel".
As far as a cold shop/garage goes I'd use a safe indoor portable heater......I like to be comfortable when I'm working.

Tom

[tripleblkr/t]

lol, yes that's what I meant. I think I cranked through my spell check to fast. Another bit of advise is to not use to much pressure and let the wheel and compound do the work. Also make sure you hold on to your part with your dear life. Aluminum parts are a pain as you'll have to strip the anodizing off before you can start to buff.

[Belgium R/T -68]

lol, yes that's what I meant. I think I cranked through my spell check to fast. Another bit of advise is to not use to much pressure and let the wheel and compound do the work. Also make sure you hold on to your part with your dear life. Aluminum parts are a pain as you'll have to strip the anodizing off before you can start to buff.

Here we go again What kind of nice thing is "anodizing"?

Per

[tripleblkr/t]

Anodizing was used on alum parts to protect them. You can strip it off using easy off oven cleaner and then set it some were where it will heat up and then wipe it clean and rinse with water, once all the anodizing is off you are ready to buff. Just don't leave it on the part too long as it could ruin the part.

[elacruze]

Here we go again What kind of nice thing is "anodizing"?

Per
[/quote]

http://electrochem.cwru.edu/encycl/art-a02-anodizing.htm

Anodizing protects the surface and can be had in many colors. Nice stuff in the right place. I used to have lots of motorcycle parts anodized.

Eric

[Belgium R/T -68]

Have tried it on some different pieces and I think it will turn out rather good but to get all tiny small scratches out? Question is, how much of
what I think is not perfect will somebody else see once it's on the car?

Per

[six-tee-nine]

Per,

Aluminum parts like the grill trim are more difficult since the material is softer and therefor you can't push that hard to it.
I already did my grill trim and i just sanded it down before buffing, but i had to sand out some dings and dents to get the trim straight.
The stainless will go slower since it's a harder material. Deep scratches will require sanding before buffing but when you just need to give the trim a "new look" finish you can go ahead.
Remind to hold on tight to the piece and make sure the polish wheel cant "grab" your trim because when it does, it will get launched like a bullit out of a gun and by the time you blink our eyes it has made a hole in your roof ===> searching ebay for new trim