Suspension setup on the cheap.

[greenpigs]

  Messing around the car some and would like to get it to hook up and suck the bondo out of a co workers Monte Carslow. So this isn't a dedicated drag car but one that will see more than a few trips to the local strip to see what it can do. I have C body rear shocks and a MP snubber and plan on doing the following:

Poly bushings in springs and clamp the front of the springs then remove the rear clamps.
Front shocks are kinda stiff and the QA1 are pricey but are they worth it.

I don't think I make the power to tie the frame together and I don't want some jacked up ride from SS springs.

Like most I want the best use of my money for what I am getting. Yes I know I am cheap but if the QA1 are top notch I will get the steel versions.

[Mike DC]

You probably do make the power to wanna tie the frame together.  A stock motor is already enough power to hurt the car when you're running decent modern tires.

[FLG]

Its not all about the more power = frame connnectors. You would be suprised at how much of a nicer ride you get with the connectors installed. Not only does the car launch better but during normal driving and turning the car feels as "one" and much firmer. You will notice a difference in regular driving compared to a car withouth the connectors. I did.

[greenpigs]

Not entirely related but I just ordered a torque strap from Mancini's and a new wire harness for my MP ignition. Now I can move it from the side panel and put it on the firewall were it belongs, plus I am going to route it under the intake like Firefighter.

I give myself $100 a month to get stuff...well I tell the wife I spend that much.

[HPP]

3rd on the sub frame connectors. They help in so many ways it is hard not to recommend them.

Do you have trouble with tire spin now? Loosening up the front shocks will help speed up the weight transfer to plant the power, but they are more of a fine tuning aid.

The whole point of SS springs is to make the front spring segment as rigid as possible. Clamping the front will help to this end, but it will have limits. You could duplicate the SS geometry by using the SS hanger and a set of HD A body leafs which gives you the shorter front segment without the thick spring pack of an SS.

However, in my experiecne, if you are getting the proper body seperation on launch, the pinion snubber actually does nothing. Unless you already have one, I wouldn't bother, or your springs ar so weak, you need it to help prevent wrap up, in which case you can make a good arguement about replacinghte springs altogether.

[greenpigs]

  Well ordered a polyurethane set of spring and leaf spring hanger bushings from Energy Suspension.

I had already removed the rear clamp on my leaf springs years ago and added one to the front, getting old sucks! The only other thing I plan on doing is the front shocks, but those are a $280 hit and I gotta wait.

After I get the shocks on I will have to find the cars sweet spot & then get out to the strip. I would like to have things sorted out-within reason- before I go.

Next thing after the bushings are in I have a 6 pack carter mechanical fuel pump to put back on. Also I want to get some braided or hard line from the pump to carb.

[greenpigs]

Got my torque strap from shomucher-sic on yesterday. Plus ordered some Dynomax ultra flo ss mufflers.

[tan top]

would defiantly weld some frame connectors in