70 Charger ignition switch

[Buzzit1]

ok here's the latest on my R/T. 

1st problem:  Sometimes when you start the car the key does not return when you let loose of it and the starter is still engaged even though the engine has started.

2nd problem:   the other day when I tried to start the car  and turned the key switch to start it was totally dead, wiggled the key and then it worked

3rd problem:   buzzer does not activate when I put the key in the switch

Does this mean I need a new buzzer-relay???

Do I need a new ignition switch (Ithink I do)

Do I need to buy the lock/key part of the switch or can I get that assembly out of the old switch and reuse in the new ignition switch??

Thanks for any and all help.

Jim

[b5blue]

I just did all this so here is some things to consider: 1st you need to get pretty deep in the column to do this so bone up on procedures in FSM. 2nd if you change "lock-set" you will need to get it re-keyed to match old one or change door locks at the same time so get the lock re-keyed before you start. 3rd there is a tiny key in switch in there you need to check and be ready to replace so figure out what is up with the buzzer first, you wouldn't want to have to go all the way back in there to fix just that. (mine was long gone and isn't coming back I hate buzzers) 4th you will be going right past the blinkers switch how are they? There is an issue with the shape and operation of the emergency flasher switch (in=on/in=off and the shape of the part where it protrudes from the housing) Good luck

[Nacho-RT74]

well dunno what has to do the turning switch with this, so doesn't understand the comment, although if you have to deal with ign switch removal, you'll have to deal with that too, so if the comment is pointing out in that direction IS TRUE that any job required at column will require a CAREFULL job with turning switch because they are not available to 70.

lets start with the easy part. Down the column at ign switch harness you'll find two small gauge wires at the outer side of plug, red coming from column and becoming in black on underdash harness. Those are the buzzer fiunction and drives ground. You can jump between them on black wires. Buzzer should buzz. If not, then buzzer is unplugged or damaged, or some problem related down the dash. If buzzs with jumper, then BUZZER SWITCH is damaged. Is not related with ign switch, is a separated piece:
( there are cheaper options, but just to show! )
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-Mopar-1970-71-B-E-body-key-buzzer-switch-2947488_W0QQitemZ360185928070QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item53dcc11986

then ign switch. I don't think a damaged switch will act in that way but lets make a coninuity test

unplug the ign switch and check for continuity with RED main wire ( input )

RED must have continuity with BLUE ( engine source )and BLACK ( acc source ) in RUN position. Yellow and brown don't have to show continuity with red on RUN.

RED must have continuity on START position with BROWN ( Bypass ballast power source to coil )and YELLOW ( starter relay ) and not continuity with the rest.

and thats all the checking you need on ign switch. If some DIFFERENT on this reading, switch is damaged. If readings shows good, problem is on wiring

NOTE... did you UPGRADE your 70 to electronic ignition ? if you did, I can imagine what did happen to get engine still cranking, depending on diagram you based to make the conversion.

You can check for conditions of buzzer switch too, simply checking for continuity between small red wires and inserting the key. If not continity, problem is the switch OR ign key cilinder lever what turns on the buzzer.

To remove any of the ign parts ( switch or cilinder ) you'll need to dissasembly the column parts
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0308_mopar_steering_column_rebuild/index.html

[Buzzit1]

Thank you very much for your comments to my post.  Looks like I need to spend some $$$ and buy some new parts before I start tearing into it.

Best Regards,

Jim