What size car trailer for a 2nd Gen??

[Lifsgrt]

I have a 20' enclosed trailer, I'll second R2's comment - you'll be happier with at least a 24' trailer. 20' works, but it's tight.  You'll have the truck to pull more, you won't be sorry if you go with a 24' or larger.  If you go with a bumper pull, I highly recommend a weight distribution hitch with anti-sway bars.  That makes an incredible difference.

[R2]

You can get a 24',,,,new,,,,anywhere from 5K and up,,,eg 9K,,,depends on how fancy you want it.  I would seriously look for a used trailer,,,lots of good deals out there,,,,and often alot of the "upgrades" (winch, cabinets, lights, flooring,etc),,,have been installed by the previous owner....
I like my 24',,,and believe it or not,,,,i wouldnt want anything more than that,,,
Doug

ps, hey Jerry... 

[AKcharger]

One additional question, what size wheels do trailers have?

[AKcharger]

14's or 15's?

[R2]

Most are 15",,,,some are 16",,,,
dont think i have seen any 14"..........

[bakerhillpins]

Going to wake up an older thread rather than start up a new one.




Looks like I am going to be buying a new 8.5 x 24' 9900# enclosed trailer for the Charger. After a year and a half of seriously watching craigslist/etc I don't really see the point in buying used as it averages in at a 1k savings from one off the lot new. Which would then have new tires and a warranty and not come pre soiled. This then begs the question of ordering a trailer (and the up charge of doing so). If I were to do so I was thinking of only a few options but wanted to bounce "what options you would get" off the forum.

I'm looking to pick up a Sure-track STRCH Pro Series Round Top Car Hauler. Click on "more" at the bottom of the features list to see the complete list of standard features.

9900# 2 spring axles (yes, spring. comments welcome)

What would you add? I've been considering:
- Escape door
- Roof Ventilation
- rear jacks/stabilizers
- bar locks on standard RV style doors

Should I worry about roof ventilation? It's a single membrane roof and I get nervous punching a hole or 2 in it? What's the chance it's just going to leak in the future?
Do I need to get measurements to tell them where to put the escape door? Would a winch be a better solution rather than a door?

Thanks all!

[69rtse4spd]

Keep the escape door, ask them how much to put the winch mounting points in. You can always put the winch in later, I like springs, never had one break yet, rubber torsion axels wear out over time, have to replace whole axel I think when needed. I-69 trailer place is 15 min. away from me, they sell Sure Track, if you want can get Jim's number for you, he knows everything about trailers, only guy I have been dealing with for years, great guy.   

[bakerhillpins]

Keep the escape door, ask them how much to put the winch mounting points in. You can always put the winch in later, I like springs, never had one break yet, rubber torsion axels wear out over time, have to replace whole axel I think when needed. I-69 trailer place is 15 min. away from me, they sell Sure Track, if you want can get Jim's number for you, he knows everything about trailers, only guy I have been dealing with for years, great guy.   

Yes, torsion need to be replaced as a complete unit. Springs can be repaired.

Winch plates are listed as ~$114.  If it's just under the flooring it seems silly to add this, but if it's welded into the frame that's different.

I suppose it depends on where you are. I'm in NH so if you are too far off I would probably just be wasting his time unless he could get it to me somehow?

[69rtse4spd]

IND., you can bring up their web site, (I-69 trailer center) they do deliver. For 114.00 I would do it, but only if it is welded to the frame, which it should be, but ask. Here is their toll free number-1-866-582-6900, ask for Jim. 

[6pkrtse]

I have a 28' enclosed to hall my Chargers, Road Runner & Challenger in. I have a steel 6' bench on the left front wall & enough room on the right front for my golf cart. I would never go any smaller than that. It's nice to have a little bigger to haul more than just the car when needed.

[bakerhillpins]

I have a 28' enclosed to hall my Chargers, Road Runner & Challenger in. I have a steel 6' bench on the left front wall & enough room on the right front for my golf cart. I would never go any smaller than that. It's nice to have a little bigger to haul more than just the car when needed.

28' is bigger than I need and probably want to have to deal with. 22' is probably perfect but I wonder if it's worth the small savings in cost and room. (looks like about $160) Not sure if I will ever want cabinets.

IND., you can bring up their web site, (I-69 trailer center) they do deliver. For 114.00 I would do it, but only if it is welded to the frame, which it should be, but ask. Here is their toll free number-1-866-582-6900, ask for Jim. 

The winch plate is welded in. Turns out it's $75.  I wonder how they would deliver that from IN to NH. Even if they just drop shipped from the factory (I'm going to have to order) any kind of delivery issues would probably be a hassle to deal with.

[bakerhillpins]

Anyone comment on escape door size:

Is 4'x4' sufficient?
Do I need to worry about how high off the interior wheelhouse the door sits?

Should I pay up the $50 for bar locks on the side and escape door?

Thanks

[6pkrtse]

They are nice to have. To me the escape door is just another point of entry for thieves though. When loading I always pull as far to the right as possible. These leaves just enough room to squeeze in & out. If the thieves want it bad enough, they will take what they want anyway. My buddy stored his trailer at a self storage lot protected by security camera's and key card locked gates. The thieves cut through the chain link fence behind his trailer & used a cordless sawzall and cut a big hole in the side of the trailer at the rear & took everything that fit thru that hole. They didn't cut the locks because up near the front camera's would have caught them going thru the man door.

[bakerhillpins]

I was planning on adding bar locks to both the standard RV door but regardless, you are correct. If they want it bad enough it's going to leave. 

[gtx6970]

For me a 24' is more then enough.  Ive used a 20' and its to small for a B body IMO.  And the longer it is, the more limited where you can park it or backing it up.
Friend of mine has a  22', and he has to make a really sharp 90 degree turn with very limited space across the street for the truck to swing out to back it in his driveway. Any longer and he couldnt do it.

Add the winch plate and forget about the side access door. Yes add the door bars to any door

Add a external plug and 110 lighting inside and out. Makes it nice when its sitting in the driveway and you want to work inside or beside it .

5k  or 5500 lb axles and radial tires are a must. Changing wheel bearings along side the road is not a fun job

[bakerhillpins]

For me a 24' is more then enough.  Ive used a 20' and its to small for a B body IMO.  And the longer it is, the more limited where you can park it or backing it up.
Friend of mine has a  22', and he has to make a really sharp 90 degree turn with very limited space across the street for the truck to swing out to back it in his driveway. Any longer and he couldnt do it.

Add the winch plate and forget about the side access door. Yes add the door bars to any door

Add a external plug and 110 lighting inside and out. Makes it nice when its sitting in the driveway and you want to work inside or beside it .

5k  or 5500 lb axles and radial tires are a must. Changing wheel bearings along side the road is not a fun job

To clarify your point for my understanding. Are you saying that 24 is essentially overkill and 22 is the best OR...  24 is the way to go unless you have space issues and then don't go less than 22?

So you feel a winch is a better solution overall? Not really having any experience with door vs winch (or either individually for that matter) if a winch is a better choice it's probably going to save me some $$ as the door is $500.  It would seem the only advantage a door has over a winch is it's faster (drive it in). 

Yea, I'm going with 10k.

[Troy]

I'm lazy and in a hurry most of the time so no way am I going to deal with the hassle and time of winching a car - as long as it's actually driveable! I tow inoperable cars more often than not so I would install a winch but only use it when I had to. Most enclosed trailers have a pretty shallow ramp so you can usually push a "roller" on fairly easily. I can get in and out of a car without a side door but the door would come in handy. If you're ever working on the car inside the trailer (like trying to get it started) then the door is even handier!

The only enclosed I have ever owned was 22'. It felt reasonably short behind a 1 ton dually. Very maneuverable! However, it was extended height and had a concession type door (plus the bracing required for the door) so it tipped the scales at 4,800 pounds and felt like pulling a barn down the road with all the wind resistance. A 24' is about the most common and I doubt prices vary much. It gives enough room to position the car safely and have storage space for extra stuff (popup tents, cleaning supplies, spares, etc.). Much longer and the trailer empty weight can become an issue (ie you can no longer carry a fully loaded big block B-body and some tools without exceeding the axle limit).

Most garages are 20' so think about how much space you have between the garage door and the front wall. A 22' only gives you an extra 12" at each end. If your winch sits on the floor, make sure you don't need to roll the car so far forward that you have to worry about mashing the valance on it.

Troy

[NHCharger]

You need a 24 footer. Otherwise you won't have enough space in the trailer to haul your 69 plus all the parts for your next project car home from Carlisle 

[bakerhillpins]

You need a 24 footer. Otherwise you won't have enough space in the trailer to haul your 69 plus all the parts for your next project car home from Carlisle 

LOL... Should I stick with Silver or pay up to get that Blue?

Any opinions on the rear drop down stabilizers/jacks?

[NHCharger]

How much extra for the blue?
Mine doesn't have the drop down stabilizers in the back.
I'm eventually going to have a side door cut in. I'm going to be 60 next year so climbing in and out of the car window in the trailer isn't as fun as it use to be. When I trailer the car a long distance I always make sure it's centered in the trailer so there is not much room to squeeze out the car door

[gtx6970]

For me a 24' is more then enough.  Ive used a 20' and its to small for a B body IMO.  And the longer it is, the more limited where you can park it or backing it up.
Friend of mine has a  22', and he has to make a really sharp 90 degree turn with very limited space across the street for the truck to swing out to back it in his driveway. Any longer and he couldnt do it.

Add the winch plate and forget about the side access door. Yes add the door bars to any door

Add a external plug and 110 lighting inside and out. Makes it nice when its sitting in the driveway and you want to work inside or beside it .

5k  or 5500 lb axles and radial tires are a must. Changing wheel bearings along side the road is not a fun job

To clarify your point for my understanding. Are you saying that 24 is essentially overkill and 22 is the best OR...  24 is the way to go unless you have space issues and then don't go less than 22?

So you feel a winch is a better solution overall? Not really having any experience with door vs winch (or either individually for that matter) if a winch is a better choice it's probably going to save me some $$ as the door is $500.  It would seem the only advantage a door has over a winch is it's faster (drive it in). 

Yea, I'm going with 10k.

For me it would be a 24 ft ( maybe a 26' if the deal was right ) with  110 lighting ( Inside and outside ) and a winch added . Also, make sure its got brakes on both axles which I am pretty sure it would for that size. 

I MIGHT consider a 22' If I got a screaming deal on a USED one.   And even then only as  long as everything else matched my criteria . But anything shorter than that  I'll pass, regardless of price.

If I'm buying a new one, its 24' or 26' only. Anything bigger than that I would look at a 5th wheel trailer due to overall length,, backing it up would become a pain.

Something else to consider is what your pulling it with . Anything over say a 20' or maybe a 22' , IMO you better have a 2500 or bigger truck.  With good brakes and a rear sway bar, and 10 ply tires helps

I know someone who used to pull a 22' with a single cab 8' bed 1500 truck and I was never comfortable using it that way

[bakerhillpins]

Bill, thanks for the clarification!     I do plan on pulling it with a 14 1500 RAM for which I added all the towing options I could get. It's rated at 9900#.


Anyone out there have comments on placement measurements of the escape door for a 2nd Gen on a 24' trailer? The sales guy felt that Sure-Trac's default would be fine but I'd hate to have it not work out. I'd hate to guess as it's got a lot to do with centering the load. Probably changes with the trailer COG too.  Should I be worrying about this?

[69rtse4spd]

No clue on the door placement, but 24-26 footers would also resale faster if you ever wanted to. On another note does a V-nose really help in the mileage, anybody know.   

[NHCharger]

I'll check my trailer tomorrow. I have a piece of carpet taped to the side wall so when I open the car door to wiggle out I don't have to be concerned about chipping the paint off the edge of the door.

[bakerhillpins]

No clue on the door placement, but 24-26 footers would also resale faster if you ever wanted to. On another note does a V-nose really help in the mileage, anybody know.   

No. You have to do a bit of google searching but the best shape for fuel economy is the teardrop. Take a look at a lot of the new campers forward profile or better yet look up articles on aeronautics (airplane design). The problem with the teardrop is that we want to be able to put a car (or other crap) inside the trailer.  IIRC the biggest drag issue we have is the flat and tall back of the trailer. That's what creates the biggest portion of the CD.

If you're board this might be interesting to you: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-efficiency/fuel-economy/aerodynamics.htm

If you add one of the "bubbles" to the top of the standard box trailers you will reduce the drag (turbulence is drag).  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfTv8Nt-x6o

The V nose actually increases the forward facing surface area and thus drag over the flat front. About the only useful element of a V nose is taking advantage of the space on the tongue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mRNjU0wYgg

If you spend some time digging through youtube there are some decent videos in there.

The drag (CD) is really just a small factor in the equation for us non commercial towers, it mostly boils down to the total weight and not driving like a maniac.