440 Six-Pack

[Tjader]

Engine: 1974 440. Was probably totally untouched internally, good condition but sluggish...

Block: 440, casting date 10/1973. Forged crank. Line-honed, square decked, cylinder bore to .030 over. Stock connecting rods, resized and straightened.

Heads: 902-castings. Milodon Megaflow Competition Valves (2.080 / 1.740 in.), COMP Cams valve spring locators, COMP cams Valve Stem Seals PTFE, COMP Cams Super valve locks (10 degrees, 1-groove), valve springs was included in the COMP Cams Xtreme Energy cam and lifter kits.
Mild pocket and bowl porting only. 88cc volume in combustion chambers.

Bore: 4.350   

Stroke: 3.75

Pistons: Ross forged, flat tops with valve reliefs, .012 down in the hole.

Compression Ratio: 10,0:1

Cam: COMP Cams XE284H

Valve train: COMP 822-16 lifters, Isky 3/8 chromoly pushrods, Harland Sharpe full roller rockers (1.5 ratio).

Ignition: MSD Pro-Billet distributor (no vacuum advance), MSD wires, NGK 6 plugs.

Exhaust: TTI headers (Hooker headers on the dyno)

Intake: Edelbrock alu six-pack

Carb: Reproduced Holley Six-pack out of the box.


Hp/torque: 461,5 @ 5400 rpm / 505,2 @ 4400 rpm.



Misc:  FlowKooler Hi Flow water pump, Mopar performance windage tray, Mopar performance high-volume oil pump. Mopar Performance Steel Shim Head Gasket .025 compressed thickness. Used Royal Purple break-in oil for dyno session. 35 degrees total timing was found the best on the dyno. Carbs are totally stock in jetting and was perfect for this configuration according the lambda measurements on the dyno.

Will go back in my 69 Charger, along with rebuilt A833 (Passon Performance OD gearset, 18 spline).

PS: I'm Swedish, so please forgive me if there are misspellings or Word used wrong....

[Tjader]

This Project started out with me having too much time of around christmas 2 years ago. When i bought the car it had this Engine, 440 six pack, headers and 4-speed. Since it is my first muscle car, I didn't know what to expect so in the beginning I was satisfied with the Power. But in time i began realizing that there was a lot missing... So, i started out by pulling one of the heads and discovered that the slugs where VERY Deep down in the hole. So... I had the fortune to get in touch with a experienced guy near where i live, he is a GM guy but has also built a lot of Mopar Engines. He helped me with the concept of the build, and did the porting and installed valves and machining of block and assembly of crank/rods/pistons. The rest I did myself.

Can't wait till I get the car running and see how it feels now!!

BR Mathias

[heyoldguy]

Congratulations, I think you'll be happy with the change.

[Mopar Nut]

Awesome, can't wait for the results.

[Tjader]

Well, I really have to thank all you guys here on DC.com, this site has been my main source of information for this project, really could'nt have done it without you!

[Tjader]

A few more pics

[Challenger340]

That appears to be a very nice Engine  

You will enjoy it !

PS: you did put high strength Rod Bolts right ?

[Tjader]

That appears to be a very nice Engine  

You will enjoy it !

PS: you did put high strength Rod Bolts right ?

Thanks!

Hmm, I actually don't know since I didn't put the bottom end together myself, but the guy who did it is really experienced. But I will check with him. I have read about those bolts, I understand it is a common reason for failure. Unfortunally I did not know that at the time the bottom end was done (2 years ago), there is a risk that the guy who did it don't remember either by now. But I do know that we ended up using lightweight pistons and pins with smaller diameter, so that should take some of the stress off? Also, everything is balanced... I will also be running a MSD box with the limiter set to about 5800 rpms, since there is no more Power to gain beyond that according to dyno testing.

I know, I could pull the oilpan and check this now, Before it goes into the car......