New ECU & Voltage Regulator Wiring Verification for 68 Charger

[36 Dodge Brothers]

I am upgrading to an electronic ignition and the instructions are very poor so I drew up my own. Please look at the drawing below and tell me if highlighted areas looks right. Can some one explain to me what the difference is from Start Position On Ignition Switch to Run Position is, that is where my confusion is on the instructions and that is why on the drawing below I marked in red what I think might be the Run Position and if that is so does it hook up to the solenoid on the starter relay? Any help would be appreciated.

[Nacho-RT74]

the starter relay link is just for lates 70s cars where relay is diff, and feeds the ballast bypass from there instead ign switch like earliers. On your car ( I guess a charger ) you won't have to take care of the brown wire on ballast since already is wired, just need to get the power to feed the module, regulator and alt field from blue wire on ballast, just like you diagramed... that's all. Rest is piece of cake.

[John_Kunkel]

The Mopar ignition switch has two ignition circuits, IGN1 (RUN, blue wire) and IGN2 (START, brown wire).

When the key is turned to START, the IGN2 circuit is energized and the IGN1 shuts off....when the key is released to the RUN position IGN1 is energized and IGN2 shuts off.

The purpose of the IGN2 circuit is to bypass the ballast resistor and send full battery voltage to the coil to boost the coil output during the start.

[Nacho-RT74]

just that on laters 70s, the brown wire doesn't comes anymore from ign switch. The bypass circuit is spliced from starter relay. ( thats what is boxed and traced in red on diagram he posted )

[36 Dodge Brothers]

the starter relay link is just for lates 70s cars where relay is diff, and feeds the ballast bypass from there instead ign switch like earliers. On your car ( I guess a charger ) you won't have to take care of the brown wire on ballast since already is wired, just need to get the power to feed the module, regulator and alt field from blue wire on ballast, just like you diagramed... that's all. Rest is piece of cake.

Gracias Nacho, yes a 68 Charger R/T that is located in the Bay Area.

Marco

[36 Dodge Brothers]

The Mopar ignition switch has two ignition circuits, IGN1 (RUN, blue wire) and IGN2 (START, brown wire).

When the key is turned to START, the IGN2 circuit is energized and the IGN1 shuts off....when the key is released to the RUN position IGN1 is energized and IGN2 shuts off.

The purpose of the IGN2 circuit is to bypass the ballast resistor and send full battery voltage to the coil to boost the coil output during the start.

John, Thank you for explaining the difference between Ign1 & Ign2 it makes sense now. To bad that when they create the instructions/diagrams they don't do it for earlier mopars.

Marco

[Nacho-RT74]

mmmmm... I think they did... whatever... here is the stock diagram. Basically is 72s, but with MINOR differences on bulkhead plug with your 68 of course, however the engine function are the same and they are wired THE SAME, with same splices and everything.

just one detail. When they first came out, equippment was dual ballast and 5 pins modules. The secondary resistance on dual ballast feeded the 5th pin externally. On 4 pins modules, the secondary resistor was moved inside the ballast so no need anymore dual ballast and the 5th pin, neither the green traced red wire on harness with elec ign kit ( olive on diagram I made ) or the blue jumper.



Being Brown ing 2 ( Start ) and Blue ign 1 ( Run ) as John stated good. Same color wires arriving to ign switch

If everything is perfect, the brake light at cluster must dim when cranking, but NEVER turn off, ON ANY IGN POSITION. Of course that is if you have emergency brake set, and in working order LOL... that could it be a good and first step diagnosis on ballast an wiring function, even not DEFINITELLY when some ign fail.

[Nacho-RT74]

Oh and BTW, the diagram you posted already have wired the ballast on IGN 2 from the right earlier location, just that the wire running to coil is blue on pre 70s. On post 70s the wire running to coil is brown from end to end, including the section running to ign switch.

I guess the red lines were draw by you and not overwritten over the existant diagram, just to ask about the wire what instruction says about that wire.

[36 Dodge Brothers]

Oh and BTW, the diagram you posted already have wired the ballast on IGN 2 from the right earlier location, just that the wire running to coil is blue on pre 70s. On post 70s the wire running to coil is brown from end to end, including the section running to ign switch.

I guess the red lines were draw by you and not overwritten over the existant diagram, just to ask about the wire what instruction says about that wire.

As for the red marking, yes I drew it because of the instructions, but just did not seem correct. look below at what the instructions say and also look at the Proform diagram.

[Nacho-RT74]

yeah right, they say to starter relay IF APPLICABLE... for a while is not, comes from ign switch

for more info on why this difference:

Coming from ign switch, start circuit is divided in to two wires and points inside switch, one is just to feed just relay, and the other one just to bypass ballast. They can't be done on same wire because when you release the key to RUN, the ballast keeps feeding the Brown wire from Blue wire. If this wire and point inside the ign switch was the same one used to activate starter relay, engine will keep cranking.

Then on lates, Starter Relay was redesigned to cut the power on the wire what feeds the bypass circuit from inside of  relay to be able to use just one wire and point to the START circuit, running directly and just to Relay, and the bypass spliced from there