Not Just Another 69 Charger Build Thread

[mikesbbody]

Nice to have you back Ryan 

[miller time]

Thanks

[Ghoste]

Something isn't making sense about your tank install, you are having a lot of issues with the fit.  Have you done body work in the trunk area?  Trunk floor or frame members?

[miller time]

No but the old owner did, it is/was a total wreck he was chugging brewski when he did it, you can tell. 1 sides is and 1inch high then the other, I had to use a jack to bend the middle support and pan up to get the tank in it.
Now I'm down to 1/2 inch or so and its all good, but you can see the seam from the back end of the car, if you look at it the tank is very visible.

[TUFCAT]

Hello! I'm glad to see you here again. I didn't know about your thread until you PM'd me. Sounds like you're doing well, and its great to get news on your progress.

Keep your spirits up, and Good Luck! 

[miller time]

Hello! I'm glad to see you here again. I didn't know about your thread until you PM'd me. Sounds like you're doing well, and its great to get news on your progress.

Keep your spirits up, and Good Luck! 

Thanks bud!

[Ghoste]

It's beginning to sound to me like trying to get it moving and then doing body and paint later on is maybe not the best route in your case.  Nothing sucks more than having to wait to drive your car but from the sounds of it, I think you would be a LOT better off rethinking how you want to do this.  My honest opinion is that if the car has body work hacked up bad enough that the fuel tank won't even fit in, then you need to tear it down, get it on a rotiserrie, rip out the bad stuff and start over.  If you do get it mobile without doing this first I think you will end up with a very undriveable car that is going to lead you to nothing but disappointment.  It's going to take time, dedication, and a good after school job but this sounds like a car that is going to need to be rebuilt from the bottom up. 

[miller time]

We will pick back up about my crappy trunk pan in a few years but I'm more concerened with gettng it streetable, for odvious reasons.
I just need the tank moved up 1/2 inch or something! I emailed YearOnebut I doubt they'll get back to me anytime soon.
So how would you get it foward 1/2 inch? I have pictures if you want me to email them for a beteidea of what I'm up against here.
Thanks

[TUFCAT]

I agree with Ghoste (as usual) .....there's a trend here - he's a pretty smart guy.

Getting your Fuel tank/Trunk Floor Issues sorted out correctly before moving on.......will help you in a number of ways:

#1 -  GAS TANKS  are nothing to mess with!!  (think leaks and explosions).  

#2 -  When you find an area that needs specific attention - address that situation the best possible (and most correct) way for future resale value.

#3 -  Doing it right the first time says time and money. Otherwise you'll pay double to correct problems later both in terms of dollars and "hassle factor".  

#4 -  Keep the faith....this is a long term project. Minor setbacks like this can, and will happen a lot - - unfortunately.

[69DodgeCharger]

Trade it to somebody who will appreciate what it is and restore it correctly. You could probably get into something almost finished and driveable right away, which seems to be your main goal. Don't half ass it and destroy the car like my buddy did to the very clean '68 Valiant I found for him. Some of you may know/have met this type of guy. Poor materials (no money) mismatched nuts bolts and screws,(no money) basically whatever he had laying around or could find, loves to drill holes in the sheetmetal to attach his "custom" brackets and emblems from other cars. Likes to destroy nice interior parts by gluing a "cool" fabric on them, and also has the Chrome makes it faster handbook as a service manual. The same guy also uses as his favorite parts source JC Whitney/Auto Zone  I could go on and on but....

[miller time]

OK found the probem!
Captain el dumbass-o (old owner) in his drunkeness welded the bracketon UPSIDE DOWN!!!
So I'm think of getting 2 j-bolts and going through and existing hole that is normally under the tank, it would work EXACTLY like the stock studs, which I really almost cant cut off the brackets and reset then, it's all painted  for one, I would probably mess up the floor pan, I cant reweld it very well and really why coulnt I? Beside it not being stock.
Just think about it for a minuit if you would. I would fix it when I got it painted.
Thanks

[miller time]

I got 2 yeses and no nos and just bought the bolts, so I guess I'm using J-bolts, I'll let you know how it goes.

[Ghoste]

Technically you had a few no's about jerry rigged repairs without doing it properly before you asked the latest question but that's cool.  You gotta do what you gotta do.

[TUFCAT]

I imagine you're talking about the area the J-bolts are attached to (that hold the tank straps on)...It's hard to tell without pictures.  Your fix is probably okay for your needs - as long as its totally hidden and safe I suppose its okay for now.

I don't condone a hack job but as you described, the car has been previously hacked on in this area.  I'm sleeping easy now.....knowing this won't be a restoration "as it came from mother mopar".

I don't know if this repair is acceptable (no pics)!  During the cars lifetime you, or someone else may end up fixing it correctly - if a "correct" total restoration is in the cards...  Just my two cents.    

I just gave you my two cents, so let me throw in a nickel for what its worth....

Most guys on this board will want to tell you the "correct" way to do things so take this wisdom as Godspel. What you do with it is up to you.  

[miller time]

Thanks best 2 opions yet!
I used the j-bolts and the look and worked great!
Send me your email addresses in a PM and I'll shoot them over, since I cant post them, I also put in the filler neck and insulation and the straps. Also a gas cap and seals.

[TUFCAT]

Miller sent me an email with pics.

I have to say...after seeing that trunk floor welded in (....and no offense bro, you didn't have anything to do with it) I think he did the best job he could without having the entire trunk floor replaced again.

I suppose I might do the same thing if doing an entire trunk floor replacement was financially out of the question.

As long as the tank is strapped in safely  --- (and hell, its about 95% better than most rust buckets) - I'd say he's doing okay for now.

[69bronzeT5]

I got the email too....I'll post pictues after the live streaming of KISS in L.A is over

[miller time]

Thanks guys!
TUFCAT, it' not coming out, that is unless the trunk goes with it , let's hope that doesn't happen!
I'm concerned about the filler neck, only about 1/8-1/2 inch is in the tank, never done this before an really cant do anything to fix it except a new neck which would SUCK.
So is that enough? also how do I connect the small line beside the neck to the sending unit? fuel hose? Same for the fuel line to tank, how long should it be?
I want to prep some of the cab, do some paint prep, and work on some brakes tommarrow

Which remmindes me

HAPPY THANKS GIVING!!

[69bronzeT5]

My fuel tank is sitting beside the garage at our old house! Anyways, here are the pictures...

[miller time]

I don't know why you osted my jeep and engine coolant but thats cool,
Now everyone's going to be jealous of my jacked up white wall BEAST! btw thats an icon arund here
Thanks buddy!

[69DodgeCharger]

Thanks guys!
TUFCAT, it' not coming out, that is unless the trunk goes with it , let's hope that doesn't happen!
I'm concerned about the filler neck, only about 1/8-1/2 inch is in the tank, never done this before an really cant do anything to fix it except a new neck which would SUCK.
So is that enough? also how do I connect the small line beside the neck to the sending unit? fuel hose? Same for the fuel line to tank, how long should it be?
I want to prep some of the cab, do some paint prep, and work on some brakes tommarrow

Which remmindes me

HAPPY THANKS GIVING!!

1/8 to 1/2 inch of the fuel filler  neck doesn't even get it past the donut gasket into the tank opening. It is enough to start the car on fire pretty quickly once it starts moving and hits a few bumps and either pulls out and or starts leaking onto hot exhaust I am guessing. The small metal line that runs the length of the filler tube is a vent if I recall correctly.  I don't have my service manual in the house but I don't think it connects to anything. it just goes through a small grommet in the trunk floor. But I could be wrong.

[TUFCAT]

Looks like you got the tank straps done in a pretty safe manner, but the filler neck issue is a safety concern as mentioned above.

[miller time]

I measurd and pulled out the neck it goes in the tank 1 1/2 inches or so
Any pictures of the line set up to the sending unit?

[TUFCAT]

For this info, my best advise is to buy a service manual from Year One.

I honestly don't know how anyone can rebuild a car without one.

[miller time]

How do you install brake lines in the front end?
I have all the parts, I just need pictures or details, my car cae brakeless so its hard to fix, I have metering valve, master cylinder, retainers and lines.
Thanks