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Paging Ron (firefighter3931)

Started by R2, November 28, 2005, 08:57:44 PM

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R2

Driver side shot,,,,from above,,,looking down at driver mount,,,note HV oil pump and its proximity to the K frame mount....close....doesnt hit now with solid mount,,,,clearance right now looks perfect...



Shot from underneath,,,,just to get some orientation.....can see collector's from headers,,,,,the end of the collector is roughy 4.5" "back" from the frame rail that runs under the car.....



Shot from the side,,,,,shows the amount of space (4.5") from the end of the collector to the frame......



Shot of the driver side.....with header reducer on the end of the collector,,,,,note, reducer is 3.5" to 2.5".....there is about 1/8" clearance between reducer and frame rail........


Close up of above photo and description........


Another close up


PASSENGER side collector with reducer attached,,,,,NOTE,,,ample amount of clearance from reducer and frame rail.......


Booty Shot'





firefighter3931

Good pics ! Well it's not workable....better sell the car for scrap while you still can   :lol:

It's looks pretty snug on the drivers side. The link i set you for the coupler setup should work if you can get it welded up tight to the collector. The other option if it's still too tight would be to cut the header a few inches back from the collector and weld on the exhaust coupler there. You'd still be able to drop the exhaust because the coupler would just be replacing the flat flange that is there now.

Depends on what you want to do. If it were mine....i'd be cutting the flanges off and shortening the header 4-5inches and welding on the flowmaster ball/socket collectors. That would give you more room to play with and the angle of the joint wouldn't be as sharp as it bends down to clear the subframe. Then it's x-pipe and race bullet time !   :devil:

Ron

Ps. The other other option would be to move the collector flange back by cutting the collector and moving it back towards the engine. The you'd have essentially double collectors but it would work allthough being redundant.
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

R2

Ron,
I am going to order the Flowmaster kit (ball/socket),,,,reducers and "mock" it up and see what kind of clearance and angle i am looking at.... :yesnod:
Wasnt planning on cutting the header,,,but I suppose it might be the only option if I need more room  :flame: ,,,,,do you think that will affect anything with having w different length headers ??
:icon_smile_question:

Doug

firefighter3931

Quote from: R2 on November 28, 2005, 09:45:32 PM
Ron,
I am going to order the Flowmaster kit (ball/socket),,,,reducers and "mock" it up and see what kind of clearance and angle i am looking at.... :yesnod:
Wasnt planning on cutting the header,,,but I suppose it might be the only option if I need more room   :flame: ,,,,,do you think that will affect anything with having w different length headers ??
:icon_smile_question:

Doug



Doug, if you modify the headers.....do both sides so that they're equal. I don't see it affecting power negatively.....in fact it should help with bottom end power and torque once the x-pipe and race bullets are installed. The big 2in primaries are robbing some bottom end power and installing some exhaust will help. Most open header combo's usually respond favorably to some type of collector extension....especially if the primaries are a little on the big side for the rest of the build.

It basicly boils down to cutting a few inches off the headers or cutting the subframe and boxing it in. The latter would not be my first choice.   :rotz:
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

firefighter3931

Doug,

One more option: pull the headers and have the collector bent down so that it points slghtly downward....enough to clear the subframe with exhaust bolted up. That would basicly keep the headers intact.

Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

R2

QuoteOne more option: pull the headers and have the collector bent down so that it points slghtly downward....enough to clear the subframe with exhaust bolted up. That would basicly keep the headers intact.

I kinda like that idea.....I suppose I would have to have someone 'heat" up the header,,,,to bend it some.....
I am thinking i just need the header collector to bend down about an inch or so,,,,,then i could get the reducer on......with more clearance.....and not cut the headers.....
Thanks for the idea......that was a good one.... :icon_smile_wink:

firefighter3931

Doug, check with   a local muffler shop to see if they can bend the collector. They should be able to with an exhaust tubing bender and maybe a little heat.

Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs