Lighter gen 2

[motorcitydak]

That would be awesome if you could get the doors made, there is a lot of weight there that I would really like to lose. Any chance getting a lift off hood done for me?

[Silver R/T]

Here's link to all the fiberglass parts made for Charger
http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/charger.html

[suntech]

Here's link to all the fiberglass parts made for Charger
http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/charger.html

Correct me if im wrong, but this is just fiberglass parts, and will be either heavy or flimsy!! To get proper quality, rigidity and weight it has to be buildt from proper materials, and vacum bagged. Nothing will be better than the material it is made from

[greenpigs]

I know their is more to it but what about aluminum fenders and doors now that they have dies.

[Mike DC]

              
I thought the idea of aluminum panels for musclecars would have been an easy sell 10 years ago.  I'm still waiting.  

[HPP]

Here's link to all the fiberglass parts made for Charger
http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/charger.html

For fiberglass suppliers, these guys are probably the bottom of the barrel in quality and fit. If you don't mind working on the parts extensively after reciept, they do offer a lot of stuff that no one else has.

[Hemidog]

Here's link to all the fiberglass parts made for Charger
http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/charger.html

For fiberglass suppliers, these guys are probably the bottom of the barrel in quality and fit. If you don't mind working on the parts extensively after reciept, they do offer a lot of stuff that no one else has.

From what I heard, VFN offers better quality.
http://vfnfiberglass.com/site.htm

[greenpigs]

I found a source for some aluminum fastners at a reasonable price. Gotta use some common sense on what you start switching out but hey you can always polish them up(FLG)

http://www.non-ferrousfastener.com/

[suntech]

I know their is more to it but what about aluminum fenders and doors now that they have dies.

I asked AMD about this, since they are making a complete aluminum frontclip and trunk lid for the  69 camaro. He told me that it is different dies for them, and they did not think it would be a big enaugh seller to do the same for the charger. On the Camaro it was a huge weight loss though, and i would think even bigger on a Charger, as it is a bigger car.

About fasteners.....what about this:  http://www.racebolts.com/  Titanium is nice 

Going nuts with this should shave off some weight 

[Ghoste]

If it's good enough for Pro Stock...

[kcederwall08]

I'm loving this thread haha... its giving me some good ideas for weight loss on my car in the future. 

[greenpigs]

About fasteners.....what about this:  http://www.racebolts.com/  Titanium is nice

The place I listed has titanium as well. More than one source is allways a good thing though.

I worked in a forge shop for 8+ years so I understand about different dies for said material. There is more than one vendor for bumpers so we can hope someone else gives it a try.

If no one steps up I am going to try and build an aluminum front bumper bracket & may just go with a replacement steel bumper. Its not that heavy & some are thinner gage metal as all the supporting brackets & braces are where the weight is. My car sits most times so I am not worried about compromising the strength of the bumper.


 

[Mike DC]

You could have a repro bumper's chrome stripped off, have it acid-dipped, and then have it rechromed again. 

But I wouldn't try this with an original bumper because rust and multiple previous plating jobs might leave the metal's thickness inconsistent to begin with.



Realistically I don't think the 68/69 bumpers are really heavy enough to justify the investment for this.  The idea would earn its money better with a set of heavier bumpers like on a large 60s GM car.   

[suntech]

You could have a repro bumper's chrome stripped off, have it acid-dipped, and then have it rechromed again.

Or...make a mold of a nice set of bumpers and make them from carbon fibre, with aluminum brackets.

[Mike DC]

  
I was thinking about the advantage of still keeping a metal bumper though.  Minor flexing & impact protection.  



CF would be a great way to REALLY drop weight though.  I hear you can even spend a pile of money and get composite stuff like CF chromed now too.

I would probably look into doing the bumper bracketry parts from CF or something like that too, if I was gonna get the bumper itself done in CF.    

[suntech]

I would probably look into doing the bumper bracketry parts from CF or something like that too, if I was gonna get the bumper itself done in CF

Agree  


Found a place in FL that does crome plating on non conductive materials.    www.universalelectrocoating.com

Would be cool as shit........and very light :-)

Am not worried about flexing.......CF is very stiff, and both bumpers are fixed in 4 points. As far as impact protection (personal, not car) it does´nt do shit anyway, so that is no problem.

[autodynamics]

If aluminium brackets and bumper were available I would do it in a heartbeat..I'm actually putting in a cf driveshaft now

[greenpigs]

It is for a Dart but he will make whatever you want.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-68-69-Dodge-Dart-aluminum-front-bumper-brackets-/130494774976?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item1e62183ec0

I got 2 aluminum L brackets off Ebay to use for a front license plate bracket & will be getting some aluminum nuts & bolts for a few things on the car also. I might drop 1 pound off with these changes.  

[suntech]

I'm actually putting in a cf driveshaft now

Cool.......The 3,5" Mark Williams?

[greenpigs]

The humor continues as I got a set of Gorilla small "tuner" open end lug nuts that are ****EDIT*** 2 pounds lighter than the regular lugs I had.  

  Next thing is some select aluminum fasteners & I have been tempted to try the P71 Police aluminum driveshaft swap. It will require cutting and re-balancing plus I have yet to find any real ET gains but it is about 20 Lbs lighter & that HAS to do something.

I will keep updating this thread & the next time I need a battery you can bet I will look at the weight.

[HPP]

I will keep updating this thread & the next time I need a battery you can bet I will look at the weight. [/color][/b]

Check out the Braille Batteries offered by Summit. Only 10-12 pounds with 400 cca. They are pricey though at $150-300.

[greenpigs]

I was thinking of this one. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DUI-5575B/

I do need to research the CCA & other specs on it before buying one.

  Found it on another site for $119 but for now I am good, my current battery weight is 46lbs & the above is 13.5lbs. Getting 32.5 Lbs off the front end is worth the cost & considering it is cheaper than the champion I currently have a good use of $.

  On the aluminum driveshaft most of the benifits are it handles vibration well & on a goober level looks cool.

[suntech]

I am not sure if battery is the best thing to save weight on. Totally agree that lighten up the nose is a good thing, but instead of putting a smaller /lighter battery in the original location, i would put a good battery in the trunk
Weight distribution is at least as important as total weight, and it is not fun sitting with a flat battery after 5 seconds of cranking!!

[greenpigs]

I have no interest in relocating my battery to the trunk, too much involved....securing, running wire & have your priced 1 gage wire?

It is more of getting a lighter battery that may not be a dyna batt but will not be a massive one like I have next time. The optima red top weighs 31 pounds and has 800 CCA & enough reserve.

****EDIT**** I have read a bunch of negative stuff about the optima batteries so a different brand may be used.

[Ghoste]

I've done the relocated battery thing and didn't find it much of a hassle at all personally but I do agree that you can also get much lighter batteries today.  Ever pick up one of those old Mopar Super Stock truck ones?