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Going from power to manual brakes

Started by General Ryan, October 07, 2005, 12:04:16 PM

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General Ryan

Quote from: sandmbmx88 on December 26, 2005, 12:25:29 AM
so im switching from power to manual brakes too. i have disc front and drum rear. is this just a matter of changing master cylinders? the brakes are the stock kelsey hayse 4 piston caliper front and the 11" rear drums.

Bump for ya, because I'm curious as well

Doc74

Quote from: bull on October 09, 2005, 04:55:00 AM
You know what I wish someone would invent? Too bad I'm going to tell you anyway. A speed switch that would disengage a clutch on the power steering pulley at about 20 mph. No power steering above 20 mph and power steering at 0-20. I don't even care if that sounds stupid.

Something like that exists, it's an electronic assist mostly that gives you very soft power assist with slow manouvers but fades away when you pick up speed and the wheel gets really firm.
I don't remember which cars had them, I bellieve some older sports Hondas, probably some volvos too or something.
You can also buy assists that mount to the column but I don't know any details of those.
I used to think BMW had them but they have basically the same system as American cars, they just giive a more tight feel.
I will try to either adjust or replace my ps pump with a modern one, it'll be lots of trial and error but the way they run stock is not an option, it's like driving through pudding.Those huge steering wheels are there for a reason !

COKE

Quote from: bull on October 09, 2005, 04:55:00 AM
You know what I wish someone would invent? Too bad I'm going to tell you anyway. A speed switch that would disengage a clutch on the power steering pulley at about 20 mph. No power steering above 20 mph and power steering at 0-20. I don't even care if that sounds stupid.

Keep in mind that a non working power steering or power   brakes are not the same thing than manual steering or manual brakes.
Try to brake or turn the steering from   a power assisted car with the engine off....

About the power steering,i think is one of the best inventions ever made in the automotive story.
The trouble with these old mopars,is the P/S is over assisted.I just have changed the manual steering for a power steering,and i NEVER will back to manual.
If  i have cash someday, i will go to a feel firm police car P/S gearbox.

About the manual brakes, i   really can ´t to opine .
I only can to say that i,m going to try with them cause i have a lot of troubles like low vacuum and a bad booster,and this seems to be a good solution.


69´Charger R/T,440 ,4-speed,Dana 60 3.55.

thallium

Quote from: sandmbmx88 on December 26, 2005, 12:25:29 AM
so im switching from power to manual brakes too. i have disc front and drum rear. is this just a matter of changing master cylinders? the brakes are the stock kelsey hayse 4 piston caliper front and the 11" rear drums.

I'm wondering about this as well. I have power disc brakes up front and drums in the rear on the 70 charger. I would like to switch to manual discs for the low vacuum reason on the cam when i put a big cam in the daytona.  Do I need to change the master cylinder? or just the rod? pull the brake booster off and just mount this to the adapter plate?

I'm pretty sure the master cylinder has to be moved. I took a pattern out of carboard for an adapter plate that i think needs to be made to convert to manual.

Anybody know if you can use the same master cylinder for power disc front/ drum rear to convert to manual? or if not, which master cylinder to get (stock or aftermarket).  I'm pretty sure this adapter plate i copied off another person needs to be used. I'm hoping it's as simple as making this adapter plate then mounting the old master cylinder that had the booster on it to the adapter plate. Then get an adjustable rod and i'm done. anyway, any info on this would be helpful. thanks.

gasoline_24

 :bump:

I would like to know this answer as well.  I don't have the vacuum to run mine either.

greenpigs

My booster is bad and I have all drums. Just what parts do we need to swap to a new style master cylinder? And would a big bore version be a better choice. Do I need to blead the brakes after the swap.
1969 Charger RT


Living Chevy free

G-man

My car was P/S and I tried to turn it with the P/S disconected at low speed....

LOL!

I couldnt move the wheel... i stuck all my weight into the damn wheel to get the car to turn a bit.

THATS DEFINATELY NOT THE SAME AS MANUAL STEER

I do like the feel of manual steer vs power steer.

Ive also tried Manual breaks (are manual breaks breaks with no break booster? mine didnt have a break booster) and well it makes it harder to push the pedal... significantly. Since ive been used to todays cars... and all the old cars I owned did have break booster this was first time I had 1 without it... and well.... i went flying down the street, went to slow down to take a corner at a T section.... guess what? Yep... I went sliding around that corner without stopping. Thank God no cars were there!

I was pressing the break so hard I thought im gonna lock the wheels up and the car wasnt slowing down enough (obviously manual breaks u gotta push a lot more).

Well...

Now i dunno, performance sense, id do manual on both and just get 'used' to howmuch u gotta press for hard/soft stopping.

I would assume though that in emergency situation on street.... manual breaks = finished and this is where Power breaks becomes more safe.... but then again if u know how hard u gotta break with it... I dont think P/B means "car stops better" just means "easier on the foot" yes/no?