News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

MY 1600 CRAIGSLIST SPECIAL CUMMINS RAM RESTO

Started by daytonalo, November 15, 2009, 04:59:16 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

daytonalo

I bought this hunk of shit from Craigslist one year ago , it is a 2 wd 2500 with cummins in untouched stock condition . I installed  3 inch body lift , 3 inch suspension lift ,2006 - 2500 ram alum rims . 35 inch Kumbo tires ,4 inch stainless turbo back exhaust, 2001 power heated  towing mirrors ,  painted viper red , rumble bee hood scoop with true ram air , 400 hp , 750 ft pounds , runs hard . will tow a house and have a grand total of 4500

Larry

daytonalo

more pics

daytonalo

more pics

tan top

Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

daytonalo

Thanks !! Hard for me to believe its 15 years old

daytonalo

more pics

Silver R/T

Very nice truck. You should join www.dieseltruckresource.com and post some pics on there. These trucks are gonna last forever
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

daytonalo

It has only 130 k , i'm told the engine will go 350 k

Silver R/T

Quote from: daytonalo on November 15, 2009, 05:36:22 PM
It has only 130 k , i'm told the engine will go 350 k
350K before what? These last 500K before major maintenance. You have to watch fuel pressure on these trucks, stock lift pump fails and that ruins injection pump.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

daytonalo


charger_fan_4ever

Quote from: daytonalo on November 15, 2009, 06:45:10 PM
On 12 valve engines ?

Nice truck

Nah no worries about losing fuel pressure and burning a p pump 12v. On the p pump the bottom half of the pump is lubed by engine oil. The lift pump on the 12v's is mechanical and run of the cam lobe. Its the 98.5-02 24v with the crappy pump and its all electrical :(. Just an intake heater so no bsing with glow plugs.

I have a 97 2500 4x4 club cab with a 5 speed. Fuel plate slid full forward and afc housing full forward too with 4 inch straight pipe. Can do a second gear burnout and burn em in 3rd too . Thats with 3.55 gears and 33 inch tires :)

Those 12v's are monsters. Oh and it gets 25 mpg to boot if I watch the passengers mirror to make sure i'm not doing a smoke show from the pipe. ;)

If you have any questions the cumminsforum.com is the best out there for these beasts.

Runs circles around the previous powerjoke ford i had.

jaak


tan top

Quote from: daytonalo on November 15, 2009, 05:14:26 AM
Thanks !! Hard for me to believe its 15 years old

yeah that looks soo straight in the before  pictures !!  :yesnod:   good plan  red in base & clear :yesnod:  will always look like shiny   no mopping  now & then
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Silver R/T

Quote from: daytonalo on November 15, 2009, 06:45:10 PM
On 12 valve engines ?
not on 12v, 12v has mechanical pump so you're good there. However KDP killer dowel pin is an issue on these trucks. I would look into that and see it is has been corrected.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

daytonalo

I have the dowel pin kit from TST , just never got around to

charger_fan_4ever

Quote from: daytonalo on November 15, 2009, 07:27:06 PM
I have the dowel pin kit from TST , just never got around to

Worth a look

I dug into mine with 200k on the clock. Pin had already come out at some point. It was MIA and you could see where it wedged against the timing cover. Couldn't see any previous repairs to the timing case. Either by luck it fell into the oil pan or else it wrecked havock and the previous owner had to do some major repairs. The dealer said the previous owner had it retimed just before he got it. Maybe was more than the timing gear slipping.

I'm glad I dug into it though as the TST tab kit said to take out the timming case bolts and apply loctite to them. I had 3 timing case housing bolts that you could thread out with your fingers!!. The 2 bolts behind the cam gear were out a couple turns.

daytonalo

how big of a deal is it to complete D-pin project?? How tough and how many hours ?

Larry

charger_fan_4ever

Quote from: daytonalo on November 16, 2009, 07:44:10 PM
how big of a deal is it to complete D-pin project?? How tough and how many hours ?

Larry


Not too bad. Just get the a felpro timming cover gasket and front seal. My brother was helping m e and we were about 6 hours.
The pita is pulling the fan and bracket. There are 3 or 4 bolts holding the fan and bracket on. There is 1 bolt kind of behind the fan bracket in the tst instructions it says to use an open end wrench or 12 point. Well lets say the open end does not work. Best way is to grind down a 12 point and break it loose. I had to take the fan off to get to this bolt which was a pita with the rad still in. Without the special wrench to loosen the big fan bolt i had to rattle it with a zip gun.

With the a 12 point ground down on you can get that bolt loose and not have to take the actual fan off the braket. Just need to pull the fan shroud, fan and bracket, then take out all those cover bolts. I marked which one went where as they are different lengths. The next chore was getting the damper pulley off. With it being a stick it could be done without ant special tool. An automatic you'll need the tool to lock the motor. Once the cover comes off you just need to locate the pin and tab it. I'd take out all the timing case bolts and clean and loctite them. New front seal and cover gasket and away you go. I wanted to cure the cover leak so i also used a light coat of permatex gasket maker on the gasket both sides.

Might want to buy an actual dowl pin too. I didn't expect mine to not be there when i got it apart. The diesel guys on the cumminsforum say to put in a new dowl pin)if its gone)and tab it. Apparently can crack without the pin due to flexing :shruggy:. I can't really see how and it was a saturday, so i just put it back together after loctiting the case bolts.

Cleaned up  the leaks from the cover and front seal. Now to get the vacuum pump sealed up, and fix the p/s fluid leak. Has a new pump on it but leaks  :shruggy:


My truck is red too makes we want to copy yours :)

What kind of air filter did you use ? I want to get a better flowing paper element filter than the fram's. I guess the high flow K&N style filters are a no no on turbo engines. Guess they are know to have dusted a few turbo diesels.

daytonalo

Thank you , I agree about why needing a pin . One gasket kit will do everything ? I'm hoping the 3 inch body lift works in my favor on this project , do you think it will help me out ?

Larry

charger_fan_4ever

I'd say with the rad support lifted it will be easier to get the breaker bar on the dampner bolt. I can't remember if the fel pro was all in 1 or i ordered them seperate. I got them threw the local parts store. They say the cummins seal is better  :shruggy:

I've always had good luck with felpro over the years. Been a year and its still dry.

daytonalo

Thanks for all the help , I will tackle this project in the winter

69bronzeT5

Wow...what a difference! Larry, you did a great job on the Ram. Love it! :yesnod:
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

GPULLER

Quote from: charger_fan_4ever on November 16, 2009, 08:22:21 PM
Quote from: daytonalo on November 16, 2009, 07:44:10 PM
how big of a deal is it to complete D-pin project?? How tough and how many hours ?

Larry


Not too bad. Just get the a felpro timming cover gasket and front seal. My brother was helping m e and we were about 6 hours.
The pita is pulling the fan and bracket. There are 3 or 4 bolts holding the fan and bracket on. There is 1 bolt kind of behind the fan bracket in the tst instructions it says to use an open end wrench or 12 point. Well lets say the open end does not work. Best way is to grind down a 12 point and break it loose. I had to take the fan off to get to this bolt which was a pita with the rad still in. Without the special wrench to loosen the big fan bolt i had to rattle it with a zip gun.

With the a 12 point ground down on you can get that bolt loose and not have to take the actual fan off the braket. Just need to pull the fan shroud, fan and bracket, then take out all those cover bolts. I marked which one went where as they are different lengths. The next chore was getting the damper pulley off. With it being a stick it could be done without ant special tool. An automatic you'll need the tool to lock the motor. Once the cover comes off you just need to locate the pin and tab it. I'd take out all the timing case bolts and clean and loctite them. New front seal and cover gasket and away you go. I wanted to cure the cover leak so i also used a light coat of permatex gasket maker on the gasket both sides.

Might want to buy an actual dowl pin too. I didn't expect mine to not be there when i got it apart. The diesel guys on the cumminsforum say to put in a new dowl pin)if its gone)and tab it. Apparently can crack without the pin due to flexing :shruggy:. I can't really see how and it was a saturday, so i just put it back together after loctiting the case bolts.

Cleaned up  the leaks from the cover and front seal. Now to get the vacuum pump sealed up, and fix the p/s fluid leak. Has a new pump on it but leaks  :shruggy:


My truck is red too makes we want to copy yours :)

What kind of air filter did you use ? I want to get a better flowing paper element filter than the fram's. I guess the high flow K&N style filters are a no no on turbo engines. Guess they are know to have dusted a few turbo diesels.


I have a '98 12V that the front crank seal is leaking.  Bought the cover gasket and seal from the dealer, made my own tab, havent gotten around to tearing it a part.  I got a little over 200,000 on mine.
Did you pull the rad too or just pull the fan and shroud?  I was a little worried about getting the damper off with out the correct tool also.
I've had a K&N on my truck for 190,000 miles, no problems and I live on gravel roads.  Filter came with the fuel plate and boost elbow that I bought from Jennetty Racing.

charger_fan_4ever

I just pulled the shroud and the fan/braket.

I got to thinking even if i had got the 4 fan pulley bolts out i don't think you could put that hidden bolt back in with the fan still in place. Might want to check that. They sell a tool to loosen that big fan nut thats lefthand thread.

You auto guys I dunno any other way to get the dampner bolt off without the tool. With my stick truck in 1st gear and a block behind the tire the truck tried to climb the block with the big breaker bar. For sure is a no go on an auto.

I'm still amazed how fast these 12v's start in the cold. Its instant just like in the summer. Was 7 degrees below freezing this am and it fired right up with a slight push of the pedal.

daytonalo

they start but they like a little warm up b-4 driving