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Anyone feel like sharing pics of a working rack and pinion?

Started by bull, November 05, 2009, 05:23:40 AM

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bull

I'm not looking to install one but I'm curious if/how some of you have done it. I've seen 2-3 threads on it and based on that info AlterKtion seems to be the way to go but I've yet to see pics of R/P that has actually worked on a Charger. :2thumbs: How about some photos and a review?

Mike DC

 
I don't think anyone has ever commercially made a R/P setup for these cars.  (besides the Unisteer P.O.S.)


I don't think it's really very worth doing either.  A R/P conversion alone, with no other suspension changes, would offer very little over just having the stock PS box tightly rebuilt.  A few pounds of weight loss at best. 


-------------------------------------------


One thing I have thought of over the years - chopping & welding the K-frame (and probably the LF subframe rail too) for a GM Saginaw power steering box.  There are so many more options available for those boxes it's not even funny.  Aluminum cases, variable ratios, different valving, etc. 

 

ronwest

I did the Unisteer kit, it was terrible, so I removed it.
I had quick ratio gears put in my steering box.
Call Dick at Firm Feel and tell him Ron from L.A. sent you. You won't be disappointed.
:2thumbs:

bull

Quote from: ronwest on November 11, 2009, 11:51:33 PM
I did the Unisteer kit, it was terrible, so I removed it.
I had quick ratio gears put in my steering box.
Call Dick at Firm Feel and tell him Ron from L.A. sent you. You won't be disappointed.
:2thumbs:

My steering box and K-frame are at Firm Feel as we speak. :2thumbs:

Well, sounds like this is an idea whose time has not yet arrived. Oh well, it was just something I thought of while under the Dakota changing my oil the other day. Every once in a while I take a good look at all the componants and the thought came to me while looking at its simple rack and pinion setup. I guess it's not so simple after all.

rcannon440

 Stay far far away from this product!!!! I tried it several years ago I encountered 3 inches of bump steer plus a terrible turning radius. I sent it back 3 times each time they claimed to have fixed the issue but didn't. I told them to keep it and put my stock setup back on the car.  I have since talked to several other B Body owners that have had the same issue.

Death Proof

Firm Feel rocks. I suggest their quick ratio arm as well.
If you are having problems, something is not installed correctly or there may be a stock part that just totally mucks up the setup. I've had rack & pinion and it blew. So I did the entire Firm Feel setup and it's just as good as the C6 Corvettes I drive. But again, I would update everything, not just the box, the factory stuff sucks.

rcannon440

The product I was referring to having the problems with was the Unisteer kit not the Firm Feel.

charger2fast4u

i've thought about going with a rack and pinion setup on my 68 charger. but i decided to stay away from it unless i went with a full tubular k frame from magnumforce or alterktion. read to many bad reviews about them not living up to the performance they offer overe a stock power steering box. i will be going with a stage 2 firm feel rebuild most likely but still am thinking of a stage 3. anyone with a firm feel setup know the difference in the stages is it just how many turns of the steering wheel from lock to lock or what? hey bull just a heads up noticed you have a dakota also be sure to check over your tie rod ends. my passenger side just blew apart the other week the ball and socket came apart as i took it off to replace i found it was rusted inside the cup and think it wore out and thats how it popped apart. not fun going down the road straight and one tire decides to kick out fully to the one side  mines an 04

HPP

The problem is the orginal mopar geometry was not designed to work within the limitations imposed by a R&P. This is why the Alterkation design works with it...it is a clean sheet of paper design.

Could you get a R&P to work with a mostly stock suspension? Sure, for a price. The size of the rack bod will interfere with placement because of the torsion bar/oil pan location. I can't see any easy way of getting around this except for building an oil pan with a tunnel. Most guys aren't willing to spring for a $500-600 for a custom oil pan just to use a R&P unit. Additionally, the length of the lower ball joint steering arms are not matched in ratio to the travel of the rack. This could be corrected by a custom seperated ball joint/steering arm configuration, but again, this is a custom set up that is not widely available, nor inexpensively obtained. Firm Feel has built a mock up of such a lower ball joint set up, but it is not in production.

I agree with Mike, only real benefit of the R&P over a Firm Feel box is a slight weight reduction. The FF box can match a rack in precision almost any day.

bull

Quote from: charger2fast4u on January 08, 2011, 11:38:29 AM
i've thought about going with a rack and pinion setup on my 68 charger. but i decided to stay away from it unless i went with a full tubular k frame from magnumforce or alterktion. read to many bad reviews about them not living up to the performance they offer overe a stock power steering box. i will be going with a stage 2 firm feel rebuild most likely but still am thinking of a stage 3. anyone with a firm feel setup know the difference in the stages is it just how many turns of the steering wheel from lock to lock or what? hey bull just a heads up noticed you have a dakota also be sure to check over your tie rod ends. my passenger side just blew apart the other week the ball and socket came apart as i took it off to replace i found it was rusted inside the cup and think it wore out and thats how it popped apart. not fun going down the road straight and one tire decides to kick out fully to the one side  mines an 04

Mine's a '94 so it's not a problem. They did a recall to replace the ball joints on my '03 Durango before I bought it though so I know what you're saying.

The difference between the stage 2 and 3 FF boxes has nothing to do with the number of wheel turns. That has to do with the length of the pitman arms/idler arms. For lack of a better, more scientific explanation (which I don't have) the stage 3 boxes are "tighter." How that's done I don't know but you can always call Dick at FF. He's always been a big help to me.

dangina

have any of you guys used the capauto r&p seup? I seen a couple guys use them on the net and  speak praises about them: http://www.capautoproducts.com/rooad_adjuster.php?pageid=41&osCsid=qvlk8he162uit5ivq0f93bph61