HEATER CORE REMOVAL

[werner]

HEATER CORE LEAKING NON MY 69 CHARGER. HOW DO I START TO REMOVE REMOVE IT. DOES THE DASH ASSEMBLY HAVE TO COME OUT. LEAKING AT THE COPPER TUBE WHERE IT COMES THROUGH THE FIREWALL. CANT GET AT IT TO SOLDER
ANY HELP GREATLY APPRECIATED

[bull]

HEATER CORE LEAKING NON MY 69 CHARGER. HOW DO I START TO REMOVE REMOVE IT. DOES THE DASH ASSEMBLY HAVE TO COME OUT. LEAKING AT THE COPPER TUBE WHERE IT COMES THROUGH THE FIREWALL. CANT GET AT IT TO SOLDER
ANY HELP GREATLY APPRECIATED

You don't have to remove the dash but it's still a bit of a pain. There are three nuts that hold the box to the firewall in addition to the heater hoses. There's also a flat bar that holds the top of the box to the dash frame. Other than that, the wiring connector, defroster ducts and cables it will come out with a little cussing and sweat. Then you have to partially disassemble the box to get to the core. If I were you, I'd consider rebuilding the entire box while you have it out. It only takes a day or two once you get the rebuild kit and related materials. Do a search on heater box restorations on this site; there's lots of good info. The member who goes by "Shakey" has a good thread.

Here it is: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13150.0.html

[twodko]

Hello Werner!

Welcome to the site. Many of us have resto'd our heater boxes and its fairly easy. The first thing you need to do is order a heater box resto gasket kit from Detroit Muscle Technologies as well as their new plenum gasket.
You'll find most of us use their products because they fit and are precision manufactured.  When I did my box I had the passenger seat out and my console removed for more work room. Its VERY IMPORTANT you take pictures at every step, this way its easy to reassemble.
Begin by disconnecting the battery, heater hoses, remove your glove box door and the glove box itself. At this point you'll see the 3 control cables attached to the box, label them and document their positions......TAKE PICTURES OF THESE LOCATIONS. Next, there are 3 bolts that pass through the firewall, remove the nuts from these bolts. Now back to the interior where you'll gently pull the box towards you as you tilt it downwards. There is one last control cable on top of the box that becomes very easy to see. I used a block of 2x4 to support the box at this point and disconnected this cable. Be sure to keep all the cable retainer clips......muy importante! Take your newly removed box to your work bench and follow the instruction that come with the DMT kit. Again, TAKE PICTURES AT EVERY STEP OF DISSASEMBLY, you'll be happy you did. We like pictures here on the site. I media blasted all the sheet metal parts, primered and painted them. If your box is in good shape just clean it up, if not you may want to paint it. Some guys do and they turn out very nice BUT if your box is in good condition don't paint it just clean it and preserve the factory markings. The front cover of the box has a plate with wires connected to it, these are for power and fan speed control. Remove this plate and carefully set it aside preferably in a plastic baggie..........no one repops these so take care of it! Reassembly and installation is straight forward. This process may seem daunting but its not so don't get discouraged just take your time, mark everything, take lots of pictures and enjoy working on your car. Your newly rebuilt box will be a little tighter pushing it back up into position because of the new plenum gasket. There are extensive threads here from many of us with before and after pictures......check them out and don't hesitate to ask questions of us. You'll not find a better Charger site than this one! Good luck.

Tom

[werner]

I have jusst installed a 528 hemi. Are any of the nuts that have to be removed from engine bay side between the firewall and engine. The reason I asked i its real tight there maybe 1 " if lucky of clearance. Thanks for the info

[bull]

There's one near the center of the firewall and two at the right (passenger's side). The middle one will probably be the hardest to get to. You can see the two more accessable ones in this pic; they're the two gold-colored nuts seen between the heater hoses and the washer fluid hose. I believe the third is roughly 6-8 inches beneath the wiper motor.

[twodko]

Damn Bull! Your engine and engine bay are truely stunning!

Tom

[bull]

Heh, I wish it were mine. I just steal pics for demonstrations around here. I can't afford anything that nice.

[werner]

Thanks for all the info guys, I guess I know what I will be doing this weekend
Cheers