440 vs Stroker in a Road racing application

[200MPH]

I was thinking of building my 68 into a road racer  similar to The big Red Camaro more streetable of course. my questions are:

Which would be the motor to use ?  the Stroked 440 or the 440 ?

Ive been told that it not a good idea to spin a stroked 440 at high rpms ?

any thoughts or suggestions would be helpful thanks

Lee

[Ghoste]

When you say stroker, just what do you have in mind?  There are a lot of folks with smallblock and low deck strokers who turn them pretty high. 

[200MPH]

I was thinking of BB stroker. 500 or bigger?

[Mike DC]

 
If you've got a BB stroker then I don't think you would NEED to spin it that high! 



Seriously, I would choose the specifics of the motor for that kind of car by weight more than anything else.  I'd assume you were gonna do a SB motor with everything on it made out of aluminum that you can get.  Alloy engine blocks for SBs aren't an option as far as I know, but you can lose the cast-iron in the heads and manifolds and water pump housing.   

Then go for the biggest feasible displacement that you can get within that block family size.  Which means a 400-410" stroker in a 360 block.  The added inches will go nicely with some good aftermarket aluminum cylinder heads.

 

[Ghoste]

Further to what Mike is suggesting, if a road racer is your goal then getting extra weight off that nose will make a lot of difference.

[200MPH]

I was thinking big block for top speed run. by road racer I meant  the Nevada Open/Silver state classic  or the big bend Open road race , kind like what these guys did 12 or 13 years ago
http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/45098_1968_dodge_charger/index.html

and here is Big red : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJTDcMWsqd0&feature=related

[Ghoste]

Have you seen this thread?

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,10608.0.html

[200MPH]

Thanks ! Iwill check it out !

[Ghoste]

You'll note there is an excellent resource person to contact in that thread as well. 

[Troy]

RallyeMike switched to a 383 for the open road races because it will turn higher RPMs than a 440. He's also running an overdrive trans with a 3.23 rear gear. Saving a bit of weight on the nose probably didn't hurt.

Troy

[200MPH]

thnaks for the input and keep it coming !

[Mike DC]

 
Do you want the car produce the best possible stopwatch numbers under ideal conditions?  Or do you want the car to be safe/predicable and fun to drive in the real world, even if it involves compromising the stats?

It's something to consider. 




For example, huge tires and heavy vehicle weight might produce the same skidpad numbers as another setup with a lightweight car and smaller tires.  But the latter setup will be MUCH more forgiving and manageable at the ragged edge of traction. 

[Rolling_Thunder]

I would do a 383 build and just build it for high RPMs   

[kamkuda]

I like a nice flat torque curve when racing for coming out of corners.  It is easier to drive when the engine makes power all over versus than trying to keep the revs in the RPM range where the engine makes power.  

Better get practicing heel toe! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuoZeuSgEj4 or
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdWSyrqEnE4
It is tougher to do on a tight track with lots of corners.

[Mike DC]

I like a nice flat torque curve when racing for coming out of corners.  It is easier to drive when the engine makes power all over versus than trying to keep the revs in the RPM range where the engine makes power.  

I agree.

But almost nobody likes to build a big-inch motor and then make a pretty low HP number with it for the size, which is exactly how to do this.  

[200MPH]

whew! lots to think about  thanks guys again.

[Rayzor]

I would think a well built 383 would do the trick. Well built meaning forged light weight pistons aftermarket rods studs girdle etc. and top notch machine work. Build it to hold together more then max horsepower. I am not a racer just my opinion, but it would seem you would run out of car first before needing more horse power.