Rocker Panels

[GreenMachine]

   I need both outer rocker panels replaced on my car. I plan on buying all my other sheetmetal from AMD, but there is a HUGE price difference with AMD and others. AMD is $299, there is a vendor on Ebay selling them for $59 that don't look too bad. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/68-69-70-1968-1969-1970-Charger-LH-Outer-Rocker-Panel_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c0d6a42a4QQitemZ120484151972QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

   I know I should just order the AMD rockers, but if anyone can give any testimonials on the Ebay rockers and maybe save me $480 that would be great.

[Mike DC]

Sorry but I won't advocate going cheap here.   Rockers are loadbearing items and IMHO they should never have been reproduced in anything less than original-strength metal. 

[GreenMachine]

   I know the inner rockers are structural, but are the outers too?

[Charger-Bodie]

Those cheper ones arent rocker panels ,they are just a patch panel that somewhat resembles a rocker......Amd all the way.

[tan top]

yeap ,  AMD   

[GreenMachine]

   Then it's settled, thanks guys.

[riggs626]

Order AMD I bought both of mine from columbia parts and theirs are AMD paid 494 for both that included shipping

[Mike DC]

 
How bad are the original rockers, anyway?  I was saying "get the best replacements you can" without really looking at the existing panels in your pics. 



If those stock rockers really aren't rust-compromised much more than where those visible holes are, then I might just patch them. 

Even with NOS replacement parts, no welded-on panel replacement job is ever gonna exactly like the factory again.  The spot welding process was just not made to be undone & redone.  My point is that it's not a question of "make it perfect or leave it imperfect?"  It's a question of trading the damage of the whole panel replacement job versus the damage of some smaller patching.

[roger440]

 
How bad are the original rockers, anyway?  I was saying "get the best replacements you can" without really looking at the existing panels in your pics. 



If those stock rockers really aren't rust-compromised much more than where those visible holes are, then I might just patch them. 

Even with NOS replacement parts, no welded-on panel replacement job is ever gonna exactly like the factory again.  The spot welding process was just not made to be undone & redone.  My point is that it's not a question of "make it perfect or leave it imperfect?"  It's a question of trading the damage of the whole panel replacement job versus the damage of some smaller patching.

Im inclined to agree. If that was my car, id make up a patch and tig it in. Assuming that the ends etc are as good as they look. A well done repair to that will allow it to look totally original with all spot welds etc factory correct.

[GreenMachine]

   The bottom looks pretty good, it's just the side that has the holes. I figured the whole side was probably thin. Today I tapped the rocker with a small scewdriver to try and find more weak spots. It just opened the bad areas a little more. When I get time, I'll cut out the bad area and take a better look inside, and sand the paint off the outside. This car was originally Burnt Orange, so sometimes it's hard to tell the rust from the paint.

[71RT4ME]

I have installed the AMD rocker panels.They are an excellent part ! They are a MUCH needed part and are well worth the money. With rusty rocker panels,they always have more rust hiding inside than what you see on the exterior.
I found the AMD parts were a great fit and only needed a couple hammer taps in a hidden area to make them fit exactly.
My recommendation is to brace the door opening before cutting off the old part, and always leave the door on for reference.
It is not a really hard part to change,but it is fairly involved.Don't rush the job.
To brace the door openings,I used heavy steel sheet[14 guage] I made the piece about an inch longer than the door opening pinch weld,and about 16 inches high.I then welded it in place with 4 short welds at each end.This way the door opening cannot change at all. I also braced it back to the driveshaft tunnel to keep the latch pillar from moving in and out by using some flat bar.
Don't forget to weld the hinge pillar to the new rocker thru the opening in the kick panel. You'll know where I mean once you get started .

[green69rt]

To brace the door openings,I used heavy steel sheet[14 guage] I made the piece about an inch longer than the door opening pinch weld,and about 16 inches high.I then welded it in place with 4 short welds at each end.This way the door opening cannot change at all. I also braced it back to the driveshaft tunnel to keep the latch pillar from moving in and out by using some flat bar.
Don't forget to weld the hinge pillar to the new rocker thru the opening in the kick panel. You'll know where I mean once you get started .

Got any pictures of your job, I going down this route this week and would appreciate any help or hints.