Prep and paint "K" frame

[Steelman]

"K" frame and control arm prep and paint.
What way should i go?

[Shakey]

This should answer a lot of questions.

http://69hemi.com/mechanical.html

[golden73]

Implement paint works well, tough stuff.

[jaak]

Implement paint works well, tough stuff.

I painted my suspension parts with implement paint, although not correct finishes... I used gloss black on k-frame and strut rods, aluminum on control arms, and ford dark grey on cast pieces (ball joints, tie rods etc.) They are not correct finishes but they're clean and I used red poly-bushings, I think my front suspension looks great.
  I had all my parts sandblasted first, a local farmer had his own sandblasting equipment ,he did my k-frame, strut rods, upper and lower control arms, center-link, and swaybar for 35 bucks.

[8WHEELER]

I sandblasted and had all this powder Coated
Torsion Bars
Adj Sleeves
Strut Rods
2-Sets of Upper and Lower Control Arms
Center-Link
2-K-Frames
2- Trany Cross Members
All Nuts Bolts and Washers

The Powder Coat cost me $100.00 I got a pretty good deal...
The Sandbasting cost me a lot more than that, I can't do the bigger parts with my little blaster.

Dan

[Drop Top]

I guess you can tell. Its a mater of preferance and what your looking for. If the frame is out of the car. Then Powder Coating is the best choice. Around here its also about the cheapest. I take all the parts from of front suspention to the Powder Coater and pick it up the next day for $150.00. Of course I stop by the power washer first to get most of the grease off, This makes things a bit easier for him. The Powder Coater can make it any color and any shade you want. I tell you, Its hard to buy the paint and prep it for that cheap. But you might want to check for prices in your area. I use this guy alot and send him alot of work from other people. I also sold him my Plastic Media Blaster Bussness last year. So he dose all of my personal stuff really cheap. Like free. Thats the perks for doing what I do for a living.

I'm doing a 69 GTO right now. He did the frame and all the brake pieces, all the suspention (front and rear), rear end houseing, drive line and bumper brackets as well as all the other little brackets that go under the car for $1100.00. I couldn't paint and prep it for that much. All I had to do was pick it up two days latter and put it back together. It looks better then it did when it came off the factory line. The frame went to the owner of the car and he is putting it all together. Thats fine with me. It gives him something to do. He's retired.

Powder Coating is very derrable and lasts as long or longer then most any other paint that you can spray on. The best thing is, that I don't have to mess with it and I can do what I do best. The body and paint.

[Steelman]

Thanks for all the great input everyone.
What would be the original colors for my 67 ?

[cudaken]

 For those on the cheap here is how I do mine.

Either in or out, I perfer out. I use a paint gun with straight thinner (can be done with out a gun) and get off the greas. Tuff spots, scrapper and scotch bright pads. (green)

Now it clean I DA off the paint I can get at, then either by hand or small hand held sand plaster strip off the rest. Final sanding is 220. Epoxy primer used as a sealer, then shoot with single layer paint and if get little anel clear coat. A arm's where blasted.

                             Cuda Ken

PS, local friend that restores Mopar to level Drop Top does is starting to go back to paint. Power coat is hard, but when it does chip and it will bigger thicker chunks come off. Paint is easyer to touch up.

[bull]

And here's an option at the opposite end of the cheap scale. Still, even at $400 it's not a bad deal considering the prep and reinforcement work they do to the typically flawed part. http://www.firmfeel.com/reinfkfram_b.htm

[haueter66]

i blasted and then used gloss black por-15 on the k-frame and I used metal mask por-15 on the arms and rods and etc.

[Steelman]

Thanks all.
Nice job Ken,looks great,What color is that?

[cudaken]

 Steelman, body is a Freigh Liner color if I remember right. 68 Charger was that sick looking gold with a hint of green. Could not get the color in the paint I wanted to shot so I sent the lower valances out for a color match. Freight Liner color was real close but with out the green tint to it.

Charger belongs to DFS68 Charger if you want the color code.

Cuda Ken

PS, guy drinking Cam 2 is 41 Husk