Ok Guys I need replies quickly

[G-man]

My 68 Charger is in the restoration shop... It cant get road worthy until 'certain' things are done.

These things are pretty much

Rear Wheel arches
Chasis rails (shock absorber mount rail thingies)
The rail that the rear valance panel sits on
The support stuff where A833 transmision goes (so it doesnt fall out of car)
Rear Shackles are twisted (probbably been in rear end crash in states and covered over not fixed propperly as the rest of the car seems like)
Theres a rail just infront of rear wheel that goes towards centre of vehicle... thats gotta be replaced to...
X brackets or whatever they are under car...

New paint on rear quarters

+ buy all those pannels

+ taking the whole car appart to its bare shell

+ refitting (all new suspension parts already baught - front end kit from PST - new bushings and new SS springs and bushings etc) everything back in when all those structural problems are fixed

What Kind of $$$ should I be looking at for the labour + chasis rail pannels to fix all that underneath stuff thats all not sitting right??

I got quoted around 32 000 for the whole lot...

Good to go, or WAY overpriced?

I got no idea what all that kinda stuff should cost so Just asking u guys with experience.

Theres about 4000 in parts and 4000 in pulling appart and refitting

The rest is labour in fixing that under neath + pannels to fix the underneath with + paint + primer for rear quarters as they gotta come off to do this (its not the out quarter but the inner pannel it sits on thats rusted out)

32-35k

Need to call them today whether to start on it or forget it.

[Steve P.]

I cnnot answer your question, but am wondering what you would have if it is done? Is this shop a PRO shop? It could be a BK restoration and you would just be out all that money.

I would look at much of this shops past work before making any decisions. $32K could buy you a much better car to start out with..

[captnsim]

If thats 32k...It better be a rare 68. For that kind of money I'd be looking for a nice finished one.

[Neal_J]

On the face of it, that sounds high for, essentially frame and rust repair and new suspension.  After spending the $$, you still don't have a drivetrain, paint, or interior.  I'd get some other quotes and speak to all references.

[68X426]

$32,000 can buy you a whole lot of Mopar already done right and tight and fast. 

To me it isn't money well invested.

You can get 2 really fast 16's or one awesome 32, but you didn't mention paint, driveline, and interior. Then again I don't know your goals for the finished product. It's a personal call.

[Back N Black]

It seems high to me? Unless you got the car real cheap and 32k is running and driving.

[NHCharger]

Wow, unless it a rare car that seems way out of line. Sounds like their not even painting the entire car. I'd definitely get a couple other prices.

[Magnumcharger]

Tell them to forget it.
The only Charger worthy of spending that kind of coin, would have to be one of the following:
1. Hemi Charger R/T
2. Charger 500
3. Charger Daytona
4. Sixpack Charger R/T
5. Panther Pink R/T

And maybe a few others. In a word: if it isn't a high dollar car, don't spend high dollars on it.

That being said, if you can do the job yourself, to save the labor costs, then do so.

[billschroeder5842]

Yes, I'll repeat everything everyone else has said. 32k will buy you lot of really great Charger. Actually, 25 woudl buy you a nice car and the 7k would be a great investment. Your '68 sounds like it might be too far gone. Sorry.

[G-man]

Thanks

Its just an XP charger with a 383 - A833 4 speed. Has full interior and its good interior, nothing wrong with it interior wise.

I have all the suspension needed, (torsion bars, sway bars, rear leafs, shckles, bushings, control arms, ball joints, brand new clutch etc etc etc)

Total 40k. (mechanicaly brand new). (btw thats included the 10 000 just to bring it from USA to Australia... so 30k + 10k to bring it here) - car cost 20k US which worked out to 21 495 when I got it + shipping taxes boat etc 29k, 11k on all mechanical parts.


32-35k is now ontop of that 40 to take all interior out, to pull everything out of car to then buy underneath pannels to then repair/replace all that stuff mentioned to then re-spray the quarters where repair was done on inner pannel which would have effected the the paint on outside.

Car wont be resprayed/restored... they said if I want full rotiserie resto = 85k-100k (this is 32k)

That makes whole car brand new mechanicaly and structurally sound.

All thats left then is a rotiserie resto to get the body work perfectly straight.

They charge 85 per hour. Worked out just for under neath repair 159 hours. (thats 13k in itself)

They do awesome work. Ive seen cars of theres at car shows and there work is proffessional.

Car does run and drive but they said in event of accident... theres no way thats going to be road-worthy with those structural issues.

[dodgecharger-fan]

That's pretty high, I think.

I've had a lot of the same work done - twice (really) - and I don't think I'm anywhere near 32K.

Front floors - just once
Trunk Floors - just once but needing some attention still, just not new sheet metal
Quarter skins then redone with full OEM quarters
rear inner wheel houses - bought once, worked over twice
rear valance - bought once, worked over twice
tail light panel - reworked with body tape and filler over rust holes - now replaced with new
perfectly good deck lid filler panel destroyed while welding in a rear package tray - new deck lid filler panel going in
rust holes in trunk lip filled over - now replaced with metal
pits on edge of deck lid fibre filled in ... gonna do the best we can with it
hood worked over - found to be waving like a kid on a merry-go-round - replaced with new hood
rocker panels: rust holes taped over with body tape then filled - replaced with good used rockers from the south.
front door pillar mudded over - now replaced with good used piece from the south.
front frame rail capped and then filled with body filler - now replaced with good used piece from the south
trans cross member mudded up to look like new - now replaced with good used piece from the south
both rear frame rails replaced with caps and fibre filled in to hide poor welds (you could see daylight through the rails) - now replaced with good used parts from the south
bought two used fenders - only one turned out good - the other replaced with a new one.

There's more. Oh my, there's more... and I'm still confident that I haven't hit 32k. I'm sure I will before all is done, but I've got EVERYTHING else to do on this car.

[Charger440RDN]

If the shop has not torn it apart yet my advice would be to put it on Ebay and run. There are too many deals out there now for less than $20,000

[Charger-Bodie]

I would like to see in writting what there planning to do.....I own a body and resto shop and know how much it can take to do a job right. If they are doing 33k worth of work and you fell fine about having that in the car then I say go for it! If your plan is to flip it or even be in it for less than its value,then Id say no.


This thing people say about a rare or valuable car being the only ones worthy of doing right is bull in my opinion.......These things are personal toys just like hot rods custom bikes ...whatever and they are worth any amount of money a given individual is willing to spend.period

[skip68]

Too much.   

[G-man]

When the list comes home (yes it grew 4 wheels and drove off to work today with Kim  ) of what has been gone over that needs replacing... I will copy (re-write) it here... then u got exactly what they are going to do for that price.

I dont care for resale value. Down here I can sell this car for 70k when done anyway, for me the point isnt to sell... for me the point was... something structurally sound - mechanicaly new (hence the new suspension clutch and everything written above) and good to drive with a manual gearbox for as little $ possible. Then when im ready in future pull it appart and respray it, put the nice wheels I want, upgrade to 4 wheel Billet discs 12.19 Nascar 6 piston calipers on 15" wheels etc etc (turning it into show car).

I didnt want to buy someone elses restored car for 70k to then pull the whole thing appart to do it how I want later (thats a waste of 70k).

I didnt want an RT as you dont custom anything those cars.

So I wanted a cheap driveable car (solid underneath... might run old suspension but that stuff isnt expensive to buy) that was good and solid, and whocares about how it looked... as long as I can drive it (mechanicaly brand new after parts) (given I can never restore it... least I got a car I can drive not a car that I cant do anything with)

[captnsim]

Are you in the US? If not that changes alot of things...

[G-man]

Australia.

[472 R/T SE]

$20k is a lot for a car needing that much.  It sounds like maybe you paid too much initially.   
For $20k you could have had a car like this & spent that money to change out the tail panel or whatever it was you wanted to do.  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,61012.0.html

That sounds like too much money to me. 

[Charger440RDN]

If you want one to customize the way you want, here is a cheap 68 R/T on ebay for $12,500 with the metal work already done. Just needs paint and assembly.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-Charger-RT-440_W0QQitemZ220500554485QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3356db72f5

[Charger-Bodie]

The guy allready has a ton in shipping one car to Australia....The last thing he likely needs is more money spent shipping another.

I say Continue on with what you have.It may cost a bunch of money ,but so will other cars. If you diidnt have this one already my opinion may be differant,but since you do.......

[motorcitydak]

But if you guys look at the fact that out of that 32 grand, only 13 of it is for labor, then the rest is just parts. I agree that spending 20k on a car that needs another 19k in parts is just nuts. But it may not be that bad of a deal.

Do you have the car now? So you can look it over and agree that all the parts (19 grand worth) are actually needed? I know that it has to kill you with the shipping costs from america, but I cannot think that I could spend 19 grand on new parts for my car. There are complete body kits on ebay w/ new doors, fenders. 1/4's for 3500 iirc. add a new hood and roof skin and I still could not come close to that number. Obviously there are a ton of smaller parts I am not including, but it just seems like a ton in parts

[Charger440RDN]

The guy allready has a ton in shipping one car to Australia....The last thing he likely needs is more money spent shipping another.

I say Continue on with what you have.It may cost a bunch of money ,but so will other cars. If you diidnt have this one already my opinion may be differant,but since you do.......

I agree. If it's in that bad of shape he will never get that money back in this economy. Rusty project cars on ebay are barely selling for $4,000 now. Probably better to stick with the current car.

[Dans 68]

Here is the link to the car when it arrived down under....   http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48838.msg533086.html#msg533086

Dan

[JohnBlu5]

even better, you can buy my car thats for sale for 10k, and its only a small 3-4k worth of restoration work to being in amazingly perfect condition..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220500993300

[G-man]

The parts are not 19 000!

All the labour to do everything will cost near that...

4000 is the chasis OEM replacement panels (not skins)

Then theres 400 or something to do both door hindges...

THen the rest hits up in labour + paint for 2 rear quarters at end (which wont be much for paint)... so really its all the labour cost, welding, grinding... pulling everything out including interior to shell to be able to do this work.


As far as buying that charger of you Johnblue....

No thanks.

Its gotta be a 68 Charger with a A833 on the floor and a big block!

Reason I baught this car when I did... nobody could see those issues until now when its all appart.

2nd: just to get and ship a good A833 would have cost me over 4000 dollars just for that... and to replace a 318 with even a 383 is 5000 here. Thats basicaly 10k just in those 2 things.

So for a car at 20k... when 318 cars with autos sold for that also in USA... i figured 'well i got 10k parts just in that I dont need to buy' so it was pretty good.

If anybody can find a 440-4 speed (not original - non R/T) for like 30k with no rust issues... i would consider selling what I got and getting that instead. I can always add 10k to get a new clutch, front end suspension kit, polygraphite bushings, aluminum bushings for super stock springs, super stock springs, 1 1/8th sway bar, 0.96 T-bars and a set of Bilstein Shocks 70/30 valved, 750 HP Holley mechanical secondry carb,, Wieand Action + dual plane manifold, braided holley fuel hoses, pro comp coil...(stuff included in around 6000-7000 dollars) (or sell my car with old parts and stick all those parts already paid for in new car)....

Im sure I can break even on the car as is here... and to fix all that will take 3 months... by then the new 1 could have come without a 35k issue... 30k US (32 000AU with the current dollar maybe 33 000) + shipping... im looking at 40k for the car (440-4 speed if u can find 1 with no hits and issues) + 10k in the entire new mechanical parts and everything mentioned I already baught (written above) can go in that... then its rebuilt my way...

50k done... (440-4 speed at 30k + all my mechanical parts I got + shipping + labour to fit it all in - drive away)

Mine as is with a 383 wont be done for under 70 considering the 35k issue.

Get rid of that issue and im at 42k completed vehicle with all brand new mechanical parts (written above)...

What I cant afford is "Yeah sell it we can find 1 thats great for 30k with a 440 and a 4 speed" to import that over.. and guess what? It has issues similar to the 1 I got here... then im in the same boat just 3 months further in life...

If I can get a 100% gurantee its good and wont have those issues (as in a mechanic inspected the whole vehicle there and there is no 30k chasis issues/former accidents and whatever)

Then Id do that since i already got all the new parts to go.

I dont care for paint... i just want a good driver for good $ that wont be 70+K to be drivable.

What do I do... and anyoneable to help maybe find another??

[teamroth]

even better, you can buy my car thats for sale for 10k, and its only a small 3-4k worth of restoration work to being in amazingly perfect condition..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220500993300

Yeah but that's a 73, eww!  

Just messin with you, it is a nice car, but he has a 68, quite a difference.

G-man, it does seem high, but you are in australia. Is that 32k US money, or pounds? 32k pounds would be a (edited for nevermind) bit crazy. Listen, it all comes down to this, it's your car and if you have the money and are ok with spending it then by all means. Lots of guys do this stuff piece by piece when/if they have money, so your sitution may be different.

[G-man]

Here is the entire parts List of everything baught to this stage so that you all understand perfectly without getting lost in all my trying to explain talk. This includes the car cost and everything...

1968 Dodge Charger                     
Truck Freight MN-LA                  
Boat Shipping to Sydney                  
GST         
Keith Picking car up                  
Stamp Duty                        
Import Approval                     
Seat Belt Set, Exterior Mirror Set               
Shipping Seat belts and mirrors            
Carburetor, timing, oil                     
Petrol Filter                        
Holley Vacuum Secondary springs               
Power Steering Box Leak Fix                  
Stainless steel wiring Lead Set for 383ci            
Inner Right Hand Headlight                  
Fuel sender Unit soldered                  
Fuel Filter inside Fuel Tank                  
4 Door Stoppers                     
Rubber Trunk Seal                     
Contact Cement                     
Fuel Line 1 foot long with clamps               
Emission hose PCV valve                  
Vent Tube                        
Reverse Light Globes                     
Radiator Overflow Bottle                  
Radiator Service                     
Clutch Plate, Pressure plate, Grind Flywheel, Release Bearing   
Wieand Action Plus Dual Plane Manifold            
Holley HP 750cfm Double Pumper Carburetor         
Braided Holley Hose                  
Pro-Comp Coil                     
Starter Motor                     
Manifold Stud Kit                     
Nulon Radiator Coolant                  
Air Cleaner Nut                     
Turpentine                     
300mm long 5/16" Air Cleaner Stud               
Superwash CT18 – 5L               
Penrite HPR 30 Engine Oil – 5L               
5/16" Fuel Filter                     
Z9 Oil Filter                     
Heavy Duty Engine Degrease x12               
Fuel Hose 5/16 – 2 foot                  
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs x8                  
Fuel Hose Clamps x2               
Radiator Hose Clamps x4                  
Power Steering Belt and Fan Belt            
Spigot Bush                        
Reverse Light Switch                  
Clutch Pushrod                  

383ci Sump Seal Gasket                  
18" Electric Fan                     
1.125 Front Sway bar with Polygraphite Bushing         
Front End Kit (2 Upper Ball Joints, 2 Lower Ball Joints,         
2 Strut Rod Bushings, 2 Outer Tie Rod Ends,
2 Stabilizer Links (Bolt and sleeve type links only),
2 Inner Tie Rod Ends, 1 Idler Arm,
4 Polygraphite(r) Upper Inner Control Arm Bushings,
2 Polygraphite(r) Lower Inner Control Arm Bushings(OEM rubber supplied),
2 Polygraphite(r) Sway Bar Bushings,
Control Arm Bumpers, 2 Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves,
4 Upper Cam and Bolt Kits )
U-Bolts                                    
Front Leaf Spring Hangers
Super Stock Springs 3800lbs   
0.960" Torsion Bars      
Pitman Arm                        
18" Radiator Fan Shroud
4 C10 Bolts, 8 C11 bolts for interior seatbelts
NOS 68 Charger Mirrors
Aluminium Super Stock Spring Bushes (front and rear Eye and Shackle Busings)

TOTAL ROUNDED OFF: $38 000AU

with the Labour to fit all that - $42 000AU.

So my car should have been good to drive (perfect infact considering the above) for 42 000 with a 383ci and a A833-4speed (now thats a hell of a deal considering you get rust buckets here for 30 000 and just the 4 speed and big block saved me spending 10 000AU for those 2 things).

Now with this 35 000 dollar WHAT THE issue (frame rail repairs etc)... is over 70 000AU drivable.

Can I find a 440 (possibly) 4 speed for $30 000US with no chasis damage/rust with a good body?

That will mean $48 000 AU (by the time i get it here and add all those parts to it) RAtHER THAN...

the current $38 000AU + 35 000AU more to go in repairs - total $70 000 complete with a 383 4 speed COMPARE TO $48 000 440ci 4-speed (if u can find 1 good for $30 000US)

Understand?

Whole thing is I cant afford what I cant afford... thats pretty much all I own, a car. That 35 000 issue has hit me in the face pretty much so a new 1 is an option if I can be guranteed it wont be 30k... to arrive - to then 3 months down the track when it arrives find out it has the same issue as the 1 I currently have. It needs to be 100% definate like if you were selling your own car that you know for sure is good.

G-

[Dans 68]

G-man,

Hard to believe that Minnesota car had so many issues! It sure looked like a 20k Charger in the photos! My take is that you seem to have looked very hard at the labor and material costs, and are comfortable with the shop, so go do it if you can afford it. Just take or have the shop take lots of pictures of every replacement and/or repair they do. That will save you asking a lot of questions later.

No thanks.

Its gotta be a 68 Charger with a A833 on the floor and a big block!

Good man. Now I know why I like you.     

Dan

[472 R/T SE]

IMO, a 4 gear big block non R/T '68 that's rust free or has had all the rust repaired should be easily attained for $30k.  For that matter I think you should be able to spend what you spent the first time in today's market.

Don't know what you have for patience right now.  Not trying to steer you from the path you're on, just an observation.

[Dans 68]

...IMO, a 4 gear big block non R/T '68 that's rust free or has had all the rust repaired should be easily attained for $30k....

I think "should" is the operative word. I spent 20k to get mine going on two years now, and thought I got a great deal. There are "issues" with it, and it will need work in the future, but overall I am very satisfied.    I do think a rust free big block 4-speed '68 is not easily found for 30K. I'm always on the prowl for these cars and they don't seem to come around very often. Just my  .   

Dan

[472 R/T SE]

...IMO, a 4 gear big block non R/T '68 that's rust free or has had all the rust repaired should be easily attained for $30k....

I think "should" is the operative word. I spent 20k to get mine going on two years now, and thought I got a great deal. There are "issues" with it, and it will need work in the future, but overall I am very satisfied.    I do think a rust free big block 4-speed '68 is not easily found for 30K. I'm always on the prowl for these cars and they don't seem to come around very often. Just my  .  

Dan

Right off the top of my head Allen's car is for sale.  He could get someone to put a 4 gear in it for him.  For that matter Allen may even be able to help him out.  What would that cost with labor?  I wouldn't think more than $4k.

G-man didn't say any thing about whether it needed to be an original 4 gear or not.  And with that I stand by my original statements.  Remember he's customizing it so originality isn't key here.

[Dans 68]

No, not original (G-man's car was a 318 originally). Just for laughs (and edification) what would Allen's car sell for with a 4-speed installed? Always willing to be proven incorrect (o.k., wrong. )

Dan

[G-man]

Ok guys this is how it is.

Cars gotta sell.

I dont have 30 000 to fix all this.

Originality is definately not what I want as I want to customize the car dash and other things down the track (this includes mini tub for 15" wide hoosiers on the rear... may not.... I will see...)

Gotta break even.

Well... I know I can save on parts if someone who (allen?) or w/e has the car... by buying all the parts i baught for this charger and fitting it all in the states... then I dont have to spend $$$ on parts shipping.

30 000US is what id be looking at for a 440-4 speed... (is it possiblke to be a A833 OD or not? if yes do it, if not, whocares as long as its A833)

Mines getting fitted with everything then put on market.

Hope you guys find something.

I wanted my car for my wedding (22 november) looks like that just went out the window

G-

[Charger440RDN]

Here is a cheap non-R/T 68 Charger on craigslist for $7,500 but it looks like you would have to add the 4 speed to it though, body looks good. Not sure if it's an original rust free California car which would be a plus.

Sorry this link expired, I think it is in other California cities on CL though

[loudmouthaussie]

hey g-man!
where in Oz are you? Im brisbane w/ '70 model (500)
sounds like you got alot of work to get done whatever the cost.
shopping it around aint a bad idea. someone might charge $32K and do a shit job while another will put in time and charge alot less i guess.
finding a good/honest panel shop is half the battle.
good luck 

[Troy]

Ok, so if you're modifying the heck out of it why mess with a rare car to start with? Buy a 318 base model that's had a 440 and 4-speed installed (or at least a 440 and have a 4-speed conversion shipped with it). Way cheaper than finding an original 4-speed car and it will likely be in better shape (not beat on all its life). I think the money to fix yours is ridiculous - especially if you're going to modify it later. I know importing another car is not a great solution but it seems like a better deal in the long run. If your car is still complete you should be able to recover a large portion of what you paid correct? Didn't you sell a Challenger for like $60k? It seems like it'd make more sense to have the car built here and shipped complete. Those labor rates are awfully high and shipping a ton of parts means you'll pay more than double.

Troy

[PocketThunder]

Maybe skip the wedding and put that money into your Charger?...?  I'm just saying...    

[twodko]

G-Man, short and sweet, don't do this. Unless you have sentimental attachment to this car or light cigars with $100 bills, sell it off. $32k will buy you a beautifully finished car. Think hard about this but get the car out of the shop while you're pondering your next move.
Come on buddy, that's way too much money.

Tom

[aone415]

I would like to see in writting what there planning to do.....I own a body and resto shop and know how much it can take to do a job right. If they are doing 33k worth of work and you fell fine about having that in the car then I say go for it! If your plan is to flip it or even be in it for less than its value,then Id say no.


This thing people say about a rare or valuable car being the only ones worthy of doing right is bull in my opinion.......These things are personal toys just like hot rods custom bikes ...whatever and they are worth any amount of money a given individual is willing to spend.period

Agreed... I know for a fact that my dad's ride was NOT a high value/rare car but he dropped major coin into it because it has value to HIM.  so the question you should have for yourself is, how much does the car mean to you.  If it means a lot and money isnt a huge issue... forge ahead. However if you;re looking for something to flip, I'd pass as you'd never get your money out of it 

[G-man]

Its getting fitted with the parts attained and then sold.

30k to fix.. I rang up a different body/resto place... 25k (its still more than I can afford - 25k for frame rail repair... that could have been spent on a 528 Hemi!)

SO where can I get a 68 Charger for 30k US 440 - 4speed that hasnt got some 30k issue lieing underneath it? (or 25k 440-auto and then that leaves me 5k to get a 4-speed)

[Dans 68]

We'll keep an eye or two out.  And as others have said, think about having any needed modifications done here. What does a round trip ticket cost you? 

Dan

[G-man]

No clue what it costs for me to go over there + then where to stay etc... cant see it happening any less than 4000.

The only work id need done (if this car could go with a new front end suspension kit etc)

PST - Polygraphite front end kit
0.92" T-bars (had the 0.96 on mine but i am trying to get street/drag - and when i get an alloy motor, it wont need the harder t bar as its less weight up front so i figure 0.92 is good)
1 1/8th F/sway bar
4 -speed if it was an auto car (if possible A833 OD rather than non OD -depending on what the extra $$ would be)
(oil leaks if any... for 30k.. i dont see why it would have especially if its something you guys know/own)

Bilstein Shocks il get here
Super stock springs I have here saved - not putting them in - keeping them for new 1

Pretty much the mechanical side of stuff minus a few things... and maybe it wont even need all that done as it may be good already... thats just an example of what can be done over there...

On the other hand... can source all the parts, put them in the boot (trunk) and send with the car so i save on shipping parts after. Then when it gets here I can get it all assembeled in.

[loudmouthaussie]

spending 'charger money' id go to the states and see it for yourself. have bought on ebay and been dissappointed in the past.

i bought my 70 from a dealer on gold coast. if i went to states i might have gotten it 10K cheaper but i wasnt that keen and i had an impala to trade in.

depends how much you got to spend too. plenty of fixer uppers already in the country if you look at places like dodge city conversions in melb or a couple of the mustang & chevy dealers that advertise in just cars   

[PocketThunder]

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/1439078219.html

Here is a nice 68 automatic car.  Take this over to RollingThunder's shop and have him put a manual tranny in for you then ship it home...?..  


Here is a guy on moparts.com who often ships cars to Australia   http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showprofile.php?Cat=0&User=5923&Board=Test&what=ubbthreads&page=0

[moparstuart]

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,61012.msg702922.html#new


  buy alan's car a member here  nice nice car  on ebay now .   only 20 k  gives you 10 k to put a 440 and 4 speed in it .   

[PocketThunder]

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,61012.msg702922.html#new


  buy alan's car a member here  nice nice car  on ebay now .   only 20 k  gives you 10 k to put a 440 and 4 speed in it .   

Yes, it is a nice car.  and you can have moparstuart put a 440 and 4-speed in it!   

(stu i think i remember him always wanting a black Charger, it'd be a crime to repaint Alans car)

[G-man]

[/quote]

Yes, it is a nice car.  and you can have moparstuart put a 440 and 4-speed in it!   

(stu i think i remember him always wanting a black Charger, it'd be a crime to repaint Alans car)
[/quote]

Yeah but considering everything I doubt id ever have the $ to do it cause id do a hemi first and wheels and breaks.. so paint... dont see that happening. 

[G-man]

Ok

Heres the list of work needed I got from them.

OSF outside Chassis Rail Has 4" x 6" plate welded on - what is this hiding?

Trans X member replaced - welded over original at sills, O/S inner sill rusted where welded (1 1/2" hole) & rest off sill is paper

NSF rail to inner guard pannel cracked near firewall

Seat mount studs missing load spreading plates under floor

Both rear quarter panels not secured to sills inner rear quarters.

Severly rusted inner rear wheel arches on both sides - some places have bee completely cut out

Boot floor & lower inner quarters replaced (poor job)

Rear leaf spring mounts have been removed & refitted - poor quality welds, parts of mounts are missing

Spring mounts not welded to inner beaver pannel

Beaver pannel severely rusted & sections missings

OSR rail has large visible rust bubble

NSR rail has cracks & rust holes around rear spring mount. ALso has areas of very thin metal (OSR already patched at this place)

Rear shock X member pop rivetted to chasis rails

1 1/2" x 1 1/4" hole in floorpan at front of NSR wheel housing near spring mount

Bumper bar mount brackets cut out during boot floor replacement and not refitted

NSR exhaust hanger bracket rusted & not propperly secured

Rear spring shackles twisted & damaged

NS rear axle seal leaking

G/box imput shaft welded up & not propperly machined causing binding with crankshaft.


Thats the list of stuff to do/buy + repainting rear quarters... masking up the inside... that means taking all interior out also (all added stuff to do the above)

25-35k

Also car may be twisted as its clearly been in a rear end hit and possibly a side hit cause the driver door where it closes (that pannel that has the lock for door to close on) is all stuffed... also has an incorrect passenger door (69) and was hacked up to fit/close and can not be opened from outside (missing the latch mechanism inside that locks it up)

so thats basicaly it.

[bull]

There's a couple different theories at play in this thread. One is the simple cost of things and while everyone agrees that $42k is a higher number than $30k there are other factors to consider. For one, I've lost count of how many times I've read threads on this site about the guy who got a great deal on a Charger for $20k-$30k before finding duct tape and chicken wire under three inches of bondo. By the time they get done fixing the mess they've spent way more had they purchased a rust bucket for $5k and spent $30k restoring it. So, if you decide to sell this car and buy another one you had better be very sure you know what you're getting so you don't become another member who starts a chicken wire and duct tape thread. In that sense the extra $12k is cheap insurance in my book, so long as the resto shop you're going with is reputable. I'm sort of in that $5k + $30k boat, and while I often bemoan that fact there is something to be said about knowing what has gone into a car as opposed to gambling on a $30k car that could be a chicken wire bondo mobile. And that gamble comes with even worse odds when shopping overseas. FWIW

[69bronzeT5]

Quick question, not sure if you've said this or not but did you properly check out the car before you bought it? Or atleast got someone to do that? How could somebody miss all that hackjob stuff on the underside. When I bought my Duster, the FIRST thing I checked was the underside.

[G-man]

Dans68 found it on craigslist... Pocket-Thunder went to look at it with a fine toothcomb... he did mention bondo work (not gobs of it) etc etc... took it for a drive.. said the gearbox shifts upwards not downwards - probbably an alignment issue.

N the rest was "its pretty solid - worth the 20k IMO"

So i baught it.

Well...

Gearbox wasnt not aligned... the shaft on the gearbox was machined as if some1 got a hand grinder and closed there eyes... clutch was totaly hammered, needed a new 1... (now things start making sense why it didnt shift downwards) but that entire bottom smack up job.....



PS: Whats Allens car like (husk41) ?

It looks good but under the car it looks like the exhausts are rusted and the exhaust mounts are shot and looks like the bottom part of quarters are shot to...

[Belgium R/T -68]

I have to agree with the ones saying that if you want to keep the car the 32k isn't an issue. You have people spending 10K a year on
new rearends, tires and engineparts because of the way they use their car and that will in the end cost far moore then a good expensive restoration
for one who just cruises around from time to time. I don't care if my car has costed me 50K in resto because I know I will be able to enjoy it for it's
purpose the rest of my life (hopefully). I have also in my earlier life had cars where I put tons of money into them because they were crap and
needed one thing after another to keep them running but we tend to forget what that car has costed in the end and rather make a problem out of
somebody putting X amount of $ for a onetime good resto.

Per

[loudmouthaussie]

sounds like car you bought needs to be turned into salmon tins/used as parts   

spend decent money on a decent non-messed with car

check it out or get it checked out before purchase

leave it stock or close to like it should be >>>>>>drive and enjoy 

[charger Downunder]

George I cant believe what i am reading,as you know i have driven the car and worked on it for you.Its amaizing what was hidden underneath i must say i never had a good look under the car id say the resto shop put it on a hoist and had a good look around.If i had a pic i would post it up so every one can see the condition as its not a bad car other than for the list that needs doing after all the time your car was at my place i have no pics.If you get another car you will have too many projects i would sell the challenger and put the money in the charger.If you sold the charger as it is you would probably lose money on it.By fixing the charger at least you Know it will be done right with the shop that it is at and once the work is done you will just have to save for that hemi.If you import another car who knows what you will be getting into its a hit and miss exercise unless you go over and inspect the car in person.It looks like the shop went over your car with a fine tooth comb.
If you go with geting the work done now would be the time to do the mini tubs that you wanted.

[Back N Black]

Man, i feel for ya. I know its too late, but the only way to buy a car is look at it yourself,what someone else think is worth 20K?

[PocketThunder]

Here is what i looked at on May 21, 2008.

[PocketThunder]

 

[PocketThunder]

 

[PocketThunder]

 

[Charger440RDN]

OMG!! I'm no appraiser but it  looks like a $30k car to me! If this car has that many problems then I will never buy one completely restored

[charger_fan_4ever]

I'm curious to know what the sticker price was on that 68 r/t.

[Armudster]

 Car seem solid from the pictures, isn't it possible that the shop you took it want to make an easy money on your behalf, that kind of stuff happens all the time, if I were you I would look for a second shop's opinion before taking any decision, just my 

[Back N Black]

Yep, i with ya on that one it definitely looks like a 20 K car.

[moparstuart]

Car seem solid from the pictures, isn't it possible that the shop you took it want to make an easy money on your behalf, that kind of stuff happens all the time, if I were you I would look for a second shop's opinion before taking any decision, just my 

get another opinion   

[Charger440RDN]

If the shop has not done anything yet, I would get that car out of there NOW! Contact some of the Mopar flippers here in the U.S. like Texas toy box or Volo car museum, to see what they would pay you for it and hope they haven't been reading this thread . You also mentioned that it can be sold in your own country at a good price, I would advertise it for sale there also.

This car looks to good to allow some shop to rip it apart, especially with the money you have put in it already. A car in this condition should sell for a minimum of $20k even in this market.

[Armudster]

 Your car is a lot more solid than my Dart, which had a lot of bondo, rust and toasted front frame rails, I got a shop to do it al for me for US$4000,00 including a two stage PPG paint all over the car, so don't be stuck with one place.

[HPP]

So much  in this thread where to begin...

Lets not forget that G-Man is in New South Wales, which may limit his ability to have multiple shops look at things easily. I'm not familiar with the geography of the region either, but I'm thinking it isn't a particularly population dense region. Also, G-man is paying for all of this. He does not do his own work which is always going to drive the cost up exponentially.

Lets see if I have this right, you bough the car for $20k and it will take another $30k to make it perfect? That puts you at $50k and I believe earlier in the thread you said it could be sold for $70k. Sounds like fixing it to be right is still money ahead.

Even if you sell the car for $30k and then flip that money in to a $30k car, there is still no guarantee that you will be getting a more solid car. Heck, from the pictures and account of this car, it should have been very, very good to begin with. Your also limiting your choices of cars to select from, so that will drive the price up as well since it HAS to be a '68, 440, non R/T, four speed. I can hook you up with a guy who has an uber solid 440 car for $30-35k, but it is a 70, R/T, 6 pak, automatic. I'm not saying it is impossible, just more difficult, particularly when you look at the total production numbers for the years.

Another question, is the shop quoting all this work doing it as a concourse restoration, everything perfectly original? Some of the problems you have listed could be corrected with some cutting, grinding and welding and since you are doing a modified car anyway, is it necessary to make it all factory correct? No need to replace major parts and pieces if some work with the welder will make it solid. While some of the cross members are riveted in, it doesn't take much work to weld them. Heck the car was driving around Minnesota when you bought it and you did do some driving with it initially when you received it, so I'd say it isn't a basket case by any stretch. I hope the shop isn't playing in to a little fear mongering to extract cash from you.

Others have also made the point that when you start modifying cars, they never really get done and you always find new ways to spend money on them. $20k to buy, $30k to solidify, and that is only a starting point. Change to a Hemi down the line $30k. Add dual efi on a tunnel ram, $5000, upgrade rolling stock for another $5000, start chroming parts, $10k, redo the interior for $5000, it never really ends and it is easy to end up with a car in the six figures. Add up all the receipts, and I'm sure we have some members on here who are well up in the dollar amount on their cars.

[moparstuart]

So much  in this thread where to begin...

Lets not forget that G-Man is in New South Wales, which may limit his ability to have multiple shops look at things easily. I'm not familiar with the geography of the region either, but I'm thinking it isn't a particularly population dense region. Also, G-man is paying for all of this. He does not do his own work which is always going to drive the cost up exponentially.

Lets see if I have this right, you bough the car for $20k and it will take another $30k to make it perfect? That puts you at $50k and I believe earlier in the thread you said it could be sold for $70k. Sounds like fixing it to be right is still money ahead.

Even if you sell the car for $30k and then flip that money in to a $30k car, there is still no guarantee that you will be getting a more solid car. Heck, from the pictures and account of this car, it should have been very, very good to begin with. Your also limiting your choices of cars to select from, so that will drive the price up as well since it HAS to be a '68, 440, non R/T, four speed. I can hook you up with a guy who has an uber solid 440 car for $30-35k, but it is a 70, R/T, 6 pak, automatic. I'm not saying it is impossible, just more difficult, particularly when you look at the total production numbers for the years.

Another question, is the shop quoting all this work doing it as a concourse restoration, everything perfectly original? Some of the problems you have listed could be corrected with some cutting, grinding and welding and since you are doing a modified car anyway, is it necessary to make it all factory correct? No need to replace major parts and pieces if some work with the welder will make it solid. While some of the cross members are riveted in, it doesn't take much work to weld them. Heck the car was driving around Minnesota when you bought it and you did do some driving with it initially when you received it, so I'd say it isn't a basket case by any stretch. I hope the shop isn't playing in to a little fear mongering to extract cash from you.

Others have also made the point that when you start modifying cars, they never really get done and you always find new ways to spend money on them. $20k to buy, $30k to solidify, and that is only a starting point. Change to a Hemi down the line $30k. Add dual efi on a tunnel ram, $5000, upgrade rolling stock for another $5000, start chroming parts, $10k, redo the interior for $5000, it never really ends and it is easy to end up with a car in the six figures. Add up all the receipts, and I'm sure we have some members on here who are well up in the dollar amount on their cars.

maybe he should get a quote for labor only and sorce the parts him self 

[bull]

I've seen this before and it always baffles me. People start talking about their car as if it got bent in half and stuck in a tree during a 150 mph car chase and then when you see pics it looks like it could win a show trophy. Is the thing really that bad? Does it turn and drive and stop? What started all this taking it to the shop business? If it runs good and drives decent let it go. Just drive the figgin' thing and enjoy it.

[bull]

Tell them to forget it.
The only Charger worthy of spending that kind of coin, would have to be one of the following:
1. Hemi Charger R/T
2. Charger 500
3. Charger Daytona
4. Sixpack Charger R/T
5. Panther Pink R/T

And maybe a few others. In a word: if it isn't a high dollar car, don't spend high dollars on it.

That being said, if you can do the job yourself, to save the labor costs, then do so.

You're joking, right? If not

[Steve P.]

Just for your thoughts:  http://www.racingjunk.com/category/1063/Dodge/post/1697052/68-Charger-Procharged.html

[charger Downunder]

Yep there the pics of the car thanks for posting you see the car isnt in too bad a shape other than for the work needed underneath.I drove it around on the road for a little bit.The resto shop that its at does good work and dosnt cut corners.If it was me i would fix it.We get killed on shipping charges in Australia thats why the resto is not cheap.
Once the works done at least you will have a rebuilt car that you know.

[d/ur/t]

hows the car going.

[G-man]

The other opinion is this is not possible for under 20 000 in labour charge.

Most people/shops/beaters etc have said to get rid of it and start again (with something that isnt stuffed) cause this is just gonna end up 1 big huge $$$ for something that you coulda got alot more than for same $$$.

So its getting fitted (almost completed fitting)

And then its going.