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What does it cost to have metal work done?

Started by Charger440RDN, October 22, 2009, 06:53:20 PM

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Charger440RDN

It seems like metal work is the most expensive part of the restoration. What do most shops charge lets say to put in a floor pan, trunk pan, frame rails, wheel houses, quarter panels? Do most of them have a set price depending on the part to be welded in? For instance what would be the typical cost to install a full quarter panel?

69charger440

Well I have asked around for the same thing down here in San Diego. Most just quote by the hour! I had on shop tell me they would install both quarters for $2,000. I had to supply quarters! Seemed high to me! So I will keep looking!
1969 Charger 540 Blown Hemi 1000HP, 69 Road Runner 500 Stroker 665 HP

Charger440RDN

Quote from: 69charger440 on October 22, 2009, 07:07:36 PM
Well I have asked around for the same thing down here in San Diego. Most just quote by the hour! I had on shop tell me they would install both quarters for $2,000. I had to supply quarters! Seemed high to me! So I will keep looking!

$2,000 for two quarter panels?!??  :o If you need floor pan, trunk pans, frame rails you could be looking at $15,000 in just metal work.  :rotz:

FLG

I spent about $1,300 on floors and frame connectors.

Silver R/T

It is very time consuming and you do want it to fit nicely when done. If you're building a show car it's money well spent. Otherwise get some tools and do it yourself.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

Charger440RDN

I am thinking about taking some welding courses. I would love to learn how to do the welding and just let a real body shop do the painting. From what people say painting is a skill that takes years to perfect, but welding is something most people can learn quickly.  :shruggy:

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: Charger440RDN on October 22, 2009, 07:52:01 PM
I am thinking about taking some welding courses. I would love to learn how to do the welding and just let a real body shop do the painting. From what people say painting is a skill that takes years to perfect, but welding is something most people can learn quickly.  :shruggy:


Every step of the job is just as important as any other, some are just lower on the skills needed leval. If you do decide to do any part of it yourself  make sure to follow through with the best you can do. It all matters,and needs to be right.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

65post

Previously owned Daytona XX29L9B423239 - f8 - white int. - power windows.

charger_fan_4ever

On the 1/4's

I'm not an expert. I'd say 20 hours a side would be reasonable. By the time you drill all the spotwelds, sandblast and prep the surprises underneath, place the new 1/4 panel on and weld it all in place 20 hours would go by quick. I'm sure something would need to be done with the trunk extensions, outter wheelhouses. In that case probably more than 1000 a side. If you go  what someone may thing is the "cheap" way with the crappy 1/2 quarters the bodyman will have to bondo the panel full length. On a second generation chanches are sail panels are rotted near the window. Patch or replace sail panel area and finsh you'll be in for more hours than a full 1/4 job and end up with a mediocure finished product.

My buddies shop is $40 an hour plus you got to pay the government. Right around $1000 per side with tax for full 1/4 install.

His shop he try's to stray away from restorations, as most of the time the customers have no idea whats involved and once done find it way too much $$$ and can't understand why so many hours. He only does it by the hour with biweekly payments and has the client come by EVERY week to see whats been done. Also documents it all with lots of photos. With a car that has paint on it its almost impossible to quote a price as who knows whats been done underneath.

Got stung once after a 3 month job and the guy said I don't have that much I figured it would only be X amount.

Blown70

Quote from: Charger440RDN on October 22, 2009, 07:52:01 PM
I am thinking about taking some welding courses. I would love to learn how to do the welding and just let a real body shop do the painting. From what people say painting is a skill that takes years to perfect, but welding is something most people can learn quickly.  :shruggy:

Take your time get some of the same thinkness sheetmetal and practice.... you can do it, just take a bit of time....That is my suggestion.....

Tom

Mike DC

If the car needs subframe rails then I wouldnt attempt it as an amateur.  But if you're just talking trunkfloors & quarters then you might wanna consider learning welding and going for it. 


You DO need to learn to weld, though.  Like take a class or something.  Sometimes as you're learning, your welds might reach the point of looking good before they are holding good.  You need to constantly weld test scraps onto a larger chunk of metal and then try knocking them off with a hammer.  You'll find out what's holding and what isn't. 




suntech

I do not see the welding part as the biggest problem, but i used to be a welder for many years, so that might be the reason. What i mean is that as long we are talking about spotwelds and so on, it is not really that hard to learn, assuming you have right equipment, proper guidance, and NOT in possetion of 10 thumbs!!!
To do seams, buttweld panels and stuff like that is a completly differenet ballgame. That needs much more practice and skills, to do right.
The BIGGEST thing, as i see it, is to get the quarters on in the right place, with correct gaps, flush with doors and trunklid etc, and car still straight. That needs proper planning, doing things in correct order, etc.
The way i see it, is that you can fix a spotweld, but it is a shitload of work to take off a quarter, that is nicely welded on..................in the wrong position!!!! :Twocents:
Since we only live once, and all this is not just a dressed rehearsal, but the real thing............ Well, enjoy it!!!!

Charger440RDN

Whenever I learn to weld, I want to buy a Charger parts car and attempt to weld in all new panels where needed. I know this car would take years to complete but it would be fun to do.

It would be my second Charger though because I plan to buy a rust free 68 charger this winter to drive next summer. Even if I buy a Charger that is "Done" I get bored and I need a car to work on to keep me occupied.

Troy

As for prices, it's dependent on the area. Shops here have lower rates than on either coast. I know my limitations (and my lack of equipment) so it's actually cheaper to pay someone to do it (assuming I'm easily 2-4 times slower than a professional and my time is limited). I saw quoted rates a while back from a shop north of me. They were charging a flat rate of around $3,000 (maybe $3500?) to replace both full quarters, full trunk pan, rear valence, valence corners and trunk extensions - coated in epoxy primer with time estimates of 4-6 weeks. I think they wanted $750 for either full floors or trunk pan alone. I honestly didn't think those rates were bad considering I'd need $1,000 in equipment a couple hundred in materials, and about 3-4 months just to get started myself.

Another alternative, there are lots of paint/body guys who advertise on Craigslist for side jobs and they'll usually cut the shop's labor rate in half. I've found a guy locally who works for $25 per hour. He has some of my fenders and other miscellaneous parts right now and estimated about 4 hours per fender to repair (dents, rust in back, supports, marker light movement, extra holes, etc.).

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

69bronzeT5

I got a quote about a year ago for my Charger. Quarters, one rear frame rail, front floor pans, torsion bar crossmember, possibly trunk floor, outer wheelhouses, trunk extensions, door post repair on one side, rear crossmember, rear valance, rockers plus repair all the keymarks in the hood....it came to "$16,000 CAD atleast" (in the guy's exact words) and that was only labour. Didn't include the sheetmetal, supplies, taxes etc
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Charger440RDN

Quote from: 69bronzeT5 on October 26, 2009, 10:00:56 PM
I got a quote about a year ago for my Charger. Quarters, one rear frame rail, front floor pans, torsion bar crossmember, possibly trunk floor, outer wheelhouses, trunk extensions, door post repair on one side, rear crossmember, rear valance, rockers plus repair all the keymarks in the hood....it came to "$16,000 CAD atleast" (in the guy's exact words) and that was only labour. Didn't include the sheetmetal, supplies, taxes etc

WOW!!  $16,000 ?!?? :o  That is steep for just labor!

69bronzeT5

Quote from: Charger440RDN on October 28, 2009, 01:05:04 AM
Quote from: 69bronzeT5 on October 26, 2009, 10:00:56 PM
I got a quote about a year ago for my Charger. Quarters, one rear frame rail, front floor pans, torsion bar crossmember, possibly trunk floor, outer wheelhouses, trunk extensions, door post repair on one side, rear crossmember, rear valance, rockers plus repair all the keymarks in the hood....it came to "$16,000 CAD atleast" (in the guy's exact words) and that was only labour. Didn't include the sheetmetal, supplies, taxes etc

WOW!!  $16,000 ?!?? :o  That is steep for just labor!

Yeah, I thought the same thing. Brian (1HotDaytona) gave me a rough estimate and I liked it much better!
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic