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Ok Guys I need replies quickly

Started by G-man, October 27, 2009, 07:00:10 PM

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G-man

#50
October 30, 2009, 02:24:09 AM
Dans68 found it on craigslist... Pocket-Thunder went to look at it with a fine toothcomb... he did mention bondo work (not gobs of it) etc etc... took it for a drive.. said the gearbox shifts upwards not downwards - probbably an alignment issue.

N the rest was "its pretty solid - worth the 20k IMO"

So i baught it.

Well...

Gearbox wasnt not aligned... the shaft on the gearbox was machined as if some1 got a hand grinder and closed there eyes... clutch was totaly hammered, needed a new 1... (now things start making sense why it didnt shift downwards) but that entire bottom smack up job.....

:shruggy:

PS: Whats Allens car like (husk41) ?

It looks good but under the car it looks like the exhausts are rusted and the exhaust mounts are shot and looks like the bottom part of quarters are shot to...

:shruggy:

Belgium R/T -68

#51
October 30, 2009, 02:59:04 AM
I have to agree with the ones saying that if you want to keep the car the 32k isn't an issue. You have people spending 10K a year on
new rearends, tires and engineparts because of the way they use their car and that will in the end cost far moore then a good expensive restoration
for one who just cruises around from time to time. I don't care if my car has costed me 50K in resto because I know I will be able to enjoy it for it's
purpose the rest of my life (hopefully). I have also in my earlier life had cars where I put tons of money into them because they were crap and
needed one thing after another to keep them running but we tend to forget what that car has costed in the end and rather make a problem out of
somebody putting X amount of $ for a onetime good resto.

Per
Charger -68 R/T 500 cui Stroker

loudmouthaussie

#52
October 30, 2009, 03:56:18 AM
sounds like car you bought needs to be turned into salmon tins/used as parts   :pity:

spend decent money on a decent non-messed with car

check it out or get it checked out before purchase

leave it stock or close to like it should be >>>>>>drive and enjoy  :2thumbs:
1970 PLYMOUTH SUPERBIRD. 440/6BBL/BENCH/AUTO/VITAMIN C.
1979 FORD RANCHERO GT 351.
1960 AUSTIN HEALEY MK1 BUGEYE SPRITE 1275/4 SPEED.

charger Downunder

#53
October 30, 2009, 05:30:03 AM
George I cant believe what i am reading,as you know i have driven the car and worked on it for you.Its amaizing what was hidden underneath i must say i never had a good look under the car id say the resto shop put it on a hoist and had a good look around.If i had a pic i would post it up so every one can see the condition as its not a bad car other than for the list that needs doing after all the time your car was at my place i have no pics.If you get another car you will have too many projects i would sell the challenger and put the money in the charger.If you sold the charger as it is you would probably lose money on it.By fixing the charger at least you Know it will be done right with the shop that it is at and once the work is done you will just have to save for that hemi.If you import another car who knows what you will be getting into its a hit and miss exercise unless you go over and inspect the car in person.It looks like the shop went over your car with a fine tooth comb.
If you go with geting the work done now would be the time to do the mini tubs that you wanted.
[/quote]

Back N Black

#54
October 30, 2009, 05:33:44 AM
Man, i feel for ya. I know its too late, but the only way to buy a car is look at it yourself,what someone else think is worth 20K????

PocketThunder

#55
October 30, 2009, 08:34:20 AM
Here is what i looked at on May 21, 2008.
"Liberalism is a disease that attacks one's ability to understand logic. Extreme manifestations include the willingness to continue down a path of self destruction, based solely on a delusional belief in a failed ideology."

PocketThunder

#56
October 30, 2009, 08:35:37 AM
 :popcrn:
"Liberalism is a disease that attacks one's ability to understand logic. Extreme manifestations include the willingness to continue down a path of self destruction, based solely on a delusional belief in a failed ideology."

PocketThunder

#57
October 30, 2009, 08:36:50 AM
 :popcrn:
"Liberalism is a disease that attacks one's ability to understand logic. Extreme manifestations include the willingness to continue down a path of self destruction, based solely on a delusional belief in a failed ideology."

PocketThunder

#58
October 30, 2009, 08:37:47 AM
 :popcrn:
"Liberalism is a disease that attacks one's ability to understand logic. Extreme manifestations include the willingness to continue down a path of self destruction, based solely on a delusional belief in a failed ideology."

Charger440RDN

#59
October 30, 2009, 09:29:44 AM
OMG!! I'm no appraiser but it  looks like a $30k car to me! If this car has that many problems then I will never buy one completely restored :rotz:

charger_fan_4ever

#60
October 30, 2009, 11:24:49 AM
I'm curious to know what the sticker price was on that 68 r/t.
:popcrn:

Armudster

#61
October 30, 2009, 11:29:06 AM
 Car seem solid from the pictures, isn't it possible that the shop you took it want to make an easy money on your behalf, that kind of stuff happens all the time, if I were you I would look for a second shop's opinion before taking any decision, just my  :Twocents:

Back N Black

#62
October 30, 2009, 11:42:44 AM
Quote from: PocketThunder on October 30, 2009, 08:35:37 AM
:popcrn:

Yep, i with ya on that one it definitely looks like a 20 K car.

moparstuart

#63
October 30, 2009, 01:13:14 PM
Quote from: Armudster on October 30, 2009, 11:29:06 AM
Car seem solid from the pictures, isn't it possible that the shop you took it want to make an easy money on your behalf, that kind of stuff happens all the time, if I were you I would look for a second shop's opinion before taking any decision, just my  :Twocents:
get another opinion   :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod:
GO SELL CRAZY SOMEWHERE ELSE WE ARE ALL STOCKED UP HERE

Charger440RDN

#64
October 30, 2009, 01:16:46 PM
If the shop has not done anything yet, I would get that car out of there NOW! Contact some of the Mopar flippers here in the U.S. like Texas toy box or Volo car museum, to see what they would pay you for it and hope they haven't been reading this thread :D. You also mentioned that it can be sold in your own country at a good price, I would advertise it for sale there also.

This car looks to good to allow some shop to rip it apart, especially with the money you have put in it already. A car in this condition should sell for a minimum of $20k even in this market.

Armudster

#65
October 30, 2009, 01:38:14 PM
 Your car is a lot more solid than my Dart, which had a lot of bondo, rust and toasted front frame rails, I got a shop to do it al for me for US$4000,00 including a two stage PPG paint all over the car, so don't be stuck with one place.

HPP

#66
October 30, 2009, 01:44:55 PM
So much  in this thread where to begin...

Lets not forget that G-Man is in New South Wales, which may limit his ability to have multiple shops look at things easily. I'm not familiar with the geography of the region either, but I'm thinking it isn't a particularly population dense region. Also, G-man is paying for all of this. He does not do his own work which is always going to drive the cost up exponentially.

Lets see if I have this right, you bough the car for $20k and it will take another $30k to make it perfect? That puts you at $50k and I believe earlier in the thread you said it could be sold for $70k. Sounds like fixing it to be right is still money ahead.

Even if you sell the car for $30k and then flip that money in to a $30k car, there is still no guarantee that you will be getting a more solid car. Heck, from the pictures and account of this car, it should have been very, very good to begin with. Your also limiting your choices of cars to select from, so that will drive the price up as well since it HAS to be a '68, 440, non R/T, four speed. I can hook you up with a guy who has an uber solid 440 car for $30-35k, but it is a 70, R/T, 6 pak, automatic. I'm not saying it is impossible, just more difficult, particularly when you look at the total production numbers for the years.

Another question, is the shop quoting all this work doing it as a concourse restoration, everything perfectly original? Some of the problems you have listed could be corrected with some cutting, grinding and welding and since you are doing a modified car anyway, is it necessary to make it all factory correct? No need to replace major parts and pieces if some work with the welder will make it solid. While some of the cross members are riveted in, it doesn't take much work to weld them. Heck the car was driving around Minnesota when you bought it and you did do some driving with it initially when you received it, so I'd say it isn't a basket case by any stretch. I hope the shop isn't playing in to a little fear mongering to extract cash from you.

Others have also made the point that when you start modifying cars, they never really get done and you always find new ways to spend money on them. $20k to buy, $30k to solidify, and that is only a starting point. Change to a Hemi down the line $30k. Add dual efi on a tunnel ram, $5000, upgrade rolling stock for another $5000, start chroming parts, $10k, redo the interior for $5000, it never really ends and it is easy to end up with a car in the six figures. Add up all the receipts, and I'm sure we have some members on here who are well up in the dollar amount on their cars.

moparstuart

#67
October 30, 2009, 02:06:18 PM
Quote from: HPP on October 30, 2009, 01:44:55 PM
So much  in this thread where to begin...

Lets not forget that G-Man is in New South Wales, which may limit his ability to have multiple shops look at things easily. I'm not familiar with the geography of the region either, but I'm thinking it isn't a particularly population dense region. Also, G-man is paying for all of this. He does not do his own work which is always going to drive the cost up exponentially.

Lets see if I have this right, you bough the car for $20k and it will take another $30k to make it perfect? That puts you at $50k and I believe earlier in the thread you said it could be sold for $70k. Sounds like fixing it to be right is still money ahead.

Even if you sell the car for $30k and then flip that money in to a $30k car, there is still no guarantee that you will be getting a more solid car. Heck, from the pictures and account of this car, it should have been very, very good to begin with. Your also limiting your choices of cars to select from, so that will drive the price up as well since it HAS to be a '68, 440, non R/T, four speed. I can hook you up with a guy who has an uber solid 440 car for $30-35k, but it is a 70, R/T, 6 pak, automatic. I'm not saying it is impossible, just more difficult, particularly when you look at the total production numbers for the years.

Another question, is the shop quoting all this work doing it as a concourse restoration, everything perfectly original? Some of the problems you have listed could be corrected with some cutting, grinding and welding and since you are doing a modified car anyway, is it necessary to make it all factory correct? No need to replace major parts and pieces if some work with the welder will make it solid. While some of the cross members are riveted in, it doesn't take much work to weld them. Heck the car was driving around Minnesota when you bought it and you did do some driving with it initially when you received it, so I'd say it isn't a basket case by any stretch. I hope the shop isn't playing in to a little fear mongering to extract cash from you.

Others have also made the point that when you start modifying cars, they never really get done and you always find new ways to spend money on them. $20k to buy, $30k to solidify, and that is only a starting point. Change to a Hemi down the line $30k. Add dual efi on a tunnel ram, $5000, upgrade rolling stock for another $5000, start chroming parts, $10k, redo the interior for $5000, it never really ends and it is easy to end up with a car in the six figures. Add up all the receipts, and I'm sure we have some members on here who are well up in the dollar amount on their cars.
maybe he should get a quote for labor only and sorce the parts him self 
GO SELL CRAZY SOMEWHERE ELSE WE ARE ALL STOCKED UP HERE

bull

#68
October 30, 2009, 02:45:13 PM
I've seen this before and it always baffles me. People start talking about their car as if it got bent in half and stuck in a tree during a 150 mph car chase and then when you see pics it looks like it could win a show trophy. Is the thing really that bad? Does it turn and drive and stop? What started all this taking it to the shop business? If it runs good and drives decent let it go. Just drive the figgin' thing and enjoy it.

bull

#69
October 30, 2009, 02:55:12 PM
Quote from: Magnumcharger on October 27, 2009, 07:20:34 PM
Tell them to forget it.
The only Charger worthy of spending that kind of coin, would have to be one of the following:
1. Hemi Charger R/T
2. Charger 500
3. Charger Daytona
4. Sixpack Charger R/T
5. Panther Pink R/T

And maybe a few others. In a word: if it isn't a high dollar car, don't spend high dollars on it.

That being said, if you can do the job yourself, to save the labor costs, then do so.

You're joking, right? If not :slap: :spank: :down: :fu: :nutkick: :2guns: :icon_bs: :coocoo: :badidea: :soapbox: :image_294343:

Steve P.

#70
October 30, 2009, 05:20:18 PM
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

charger Downunder

#71
October 30, 2009, 05:32:15 PM
Yep there the pics of the car thanks for posting you see the car isnt in too bad a shape other than for the work needed underneath.I drove it around on the road for a little bit.The resto shop that its at does good work and dosnt cut corners.If it was me i would fix it.We get killed on shipping charges in Australia thats why the resto is not cheap.
Once the works done at least you will have a rebuilt car that you know.
[/quote]

G-man

#73
November 01, 2009, 05:40:39 AM
The other opinion is this is not possible for under 20 000 in labour charge.

Most people/shops/beaters etc have said to get rid of it and start again (with something that isnt stuffed) cause this is just gonna end up 1 big huge $$$ for something that you coulda got alot more than for same $$$.

So its getting fitted (almost completed fitting)

And then its going.
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