Stripped Down for Metal Work, Lots of Questions

[GreenMachine]

   This car was in need of paint and body work 8 years ago when I bought it. Instead, I rebuilt the engine, trans, and rear end and put 32,000 miles on it until a month ago when I finally decided to strip it down. The trunk floor was already cut out when I bought it, and the pass. floor had thin sheetmetal riveted over rust holes. As far as I can figure, the car was repaired/painted sometime in the 80's.
   The pics are:
1. The afternoon before teardown
2. Trunk floor
3. Is this the factory quarter seam?
4. Is there a patch panel available for this? I know there is a full panel assy. for $200, looking for cheaper

[GreenMachine]

More

5. Left front frame damage
6. Wheel well side frame damage
7. Pass. comp. floor
8. Rear window frame

[GreenMachine]

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[GreenMachine]

Questions:

A. I need a full floor replacement, and I'm a beginner as far as body work/welding. I have taken a short night class at the Vo-tech for welding (not auto-body specific). Should I get the full floor or 2 halves?

B. Same question with the trunk floor. I will be replacing the rear valence and both full quarters. And 1 or both trunk extensions.

C. The front left frame I plan on a flush patch on the lower side and scab patches on the other sides, will that work? This frame damage has been there since before I owned the car.

D. What should I get to repair the rear window frame? It has the same damage on both sides.

  I'm trying not to put alot of the cost on credit cards, so it's more of a pay as I go. And I'm not going for factory correct, but would like to when feasible. This car is gonna be driven alot. A stroker is in it's future shortly after I get it back on the road and pay off any accrued debt. After the floors are replaced, I'm going to install US Cartool subframe connectors (or XV, are they the same?) and maybe torque boxes.

  Also, I have this car stripped down to just suspension. Should I have it media blasted now so I can find any other unexpected damage or after I cut out the bad stuff?

[Blown70]

Not a bad project,  AMD, catalog handy?

I would say you have the welding skill, get the new metal and then cut out what you need to... dill the spot welds and tack the new one in.

I would say most of what you need is avail via AMD....

That is the 1/4 along the roof line.

I would pick a spot like the floord do them then move to the next area.

There are threads like 1HotDaytona, has in the Aero that would give you some good reference photos...

Tom

[green69rt]

Questions:

B. Same question with the trunk floor. I will be replacing the rear valence and both full quarters. And 1 or both trunk extensions.

D. What should I get to repair the rear window frame? It has the same damage on both sides.

This sounds like where I was a couple of years ago.  On the trunk floor, you can get a one piece unit in if you're replacing the rear valance.  It will go in through the valance opening like mail in a slot.  Get the one piece, I did the two piece because that's what was available at the time.  The one piece saves a lot of time in fit-up and looks much better.  Be prepared on what you might find under the rest of the trunk floor (frame rail rust or spring hanger rust.)  

The window frame is a bugger because of the bends and layers of metal.  I had some of the same problems.  You might want to look at the rear deck piece from AMD, it includes the bottom portion of the rear window frame, you can go for a complete replace or just cut out the parts you need and trash the rest. (edit) After a second look, I think you could just get a small piece of metal and bend it to shape for the window corners.

As for skill with the welder, do a search on this site, quite a bit of info and others in the same boat as you (including me.)

[charger_fan_4ever]

My full AMD front floor fit like a glove, the time saved from not having to join halves and then finish them was well worth the little extra i paid for the full floor. I bought a full trunck floor aswell, have not got it in yet. With AMD parts being joined at the factory spots there is virtually no finishing to do. Makes a better finished product imo.

[GreenMachine]

   Thanks for the replies, I didn't know about 1HotDaytona's new resto thread, thanks. I have been checking out Cody's "Restorations of member's cars" thread. I plan on going with AMD for most of my parts. There is a dealer a couple of hours away, I plan on calling them next week and see if they can save me money rather than ordering direct from AMD. I'm convinced now I should go with full panels instead of halves.
   There is some sort of undercoating in the trunk area, floorboard, and engine compartment. It's been difficult to remove because it gums up. I haven't tried using stripper yet though. That will make it difficult to find the spotwelds especially since I've never done this before.
   Any ideas on the door frame area? I've seen patch panels on Ebay for the door side, but not for the frame side. I'm certain I could fabricate something but I'm worried it would look like sh*t though. Now that I look at the pic again, I'm sure it couldn't get any worse. Maybe I should just get the replacement panel.

[green69rt]

4. Is there a patch panel available for this? I know there is a full panel assy. for $200, looking for cheaper

This actually doesn't look as bad as some of the other parts (IMO).  Just get a flat piece of 16 Ga from Lowes or Home depot and cut it to fit and weld it in.  Make sure you make a pattern of the holes and placement before you start cutting.  Shouldn't be that hard.  Anyone else done this??

[hemi-hampton]

There is a easy solution for fixing those ripped out door latches on door & Jamb. Just check out the Article in MOPAR MUSCLE November 2009 Issue on Page 26. Problem Solved. LEON.

[green69rt]

There is a easy solution for fixing those ripped out door latches on door & Jamb. Just check out the Article in MOPAR MUSCLE November 2009 Issue on Page 26. Problem Solved. LEON.

Link
Second try, look around on the page.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/mopar_car_history/index.html

[hemi-hampton]

Yeah, I see it's on there in Related Articles all the way down. Door Jamb Fix by Dynamic Renovation. LEON.

[GreenMachine]

   Thanks for the link, looks easy enough, I ordered one for both sides.

[GreenMachine]

   Update:

  I got the floor replaced, I didn't realize how much of a pain the removal would be. I started with a spot weld drill bit, but with the condition of the floor as bad as it was, the spot welds were hard to find. What worked best for me was to weaken them with a grinder and then use a spot weld chisel in an air hammer to pop them.
  The AMD floor fit OK, but there wasn't very much material to weld to the firewall with. And I had to beat it down quite a bit to meet with the seat mount brackets that are attached to the rocker. When I went to install my US Cartool subframe connectors, there were some gaps. I'm sure an experienced bodyman could've handled it alot better than I did.

[GreenMachine]

   I've got the right quarter off, along with 99% of the trunk floor and most of the rear valance. The only rust I found was the ends of the rear crossmember and the outer wheel wells. I found some crossmember reinforcement brackets that I think will work for the crossmember.
   Does anyone know a source for a patch panel for the lip of the outer wheel well? I don't want to replace the whole thing and I'd rather not buy the whole thing just to cut out the edge.

[tan top]

  been busy  , floor looks good     keep the pictures coming ! love looking at stuff like this 

[Charger-Bodie]

   I've got the right quarter off, along with 99% of the trunk floor and most of the rear valance. The only rust I found was the ends of the rear crossmember and the outer wheel wells. I found some crossmember reinforcement brackets that I think will work for the crossmember.
   Does anyone know a source for a patch panel for the lip of the outer wheel well? I don't want to replace the whole thing and I'd rather not buy the whole thing just to cut out the edge.

You will either need to buy an outer wheel house or fab some new pieces to patch the one you have. I reccoment buying one from AMD.

[green69rt]

  I've got the right quarter off, along with 99% of the trunk floor and most of the rear valance. The only rust I found was the ends of the rear crossmember and the outer wheel wells. I found some crossmember reinforcement brackets that I think will work for the crossmember.
  Does anyone know a source for a patch panel for the lip of the outer wheel well? I don't want to replace the whole thing and I'd rather not buy the whole thing just to cut out the edge.

Actually, since you have the quarter off, replacing the outer wheel well is not that hard.  I know there are several layers of metal where it flanges up with the inner well and the door panel but you don't need to split those welds to do the job.  Just cut the outer well back to the flange, etc and then just weld the new well on top of the combined layers of metal.  The 1/16" or so that it will add to how far the well sticks out will make no difference in the final quarter fit up.  I just did it on mine and it worked fine.  Look under my posts. Much better than trying to cut a patch and but weld it in.

[Silver R/T]

Good job on the car, looks like you're moving right along with resto just fine

[GreenMachine]

   Thanks for the reponses, I'll have to put the outer wheel houses on order. I was hoping for a cheaper way out, but what's another $300 when I'll probably have spent $10,000 by the time I get it back on the road.