Advice about the Electric system...Batt and Alt combo concern, and links related

[Nacho-RT74]

Thinking on our charging system and the risky situations I can think on HOW AND WHY the stock systems become on get weak day after day, beside the Chrysler engineers fail on the design.

THE TIPICAL HIGHER AMPERAGE BATT UPGRADE without think on how you are affecting the rest.

An extra advice I can give you is think on the batt. Is better to have a low amps batt and high output alt than opposite!!! the tipical mistake made for everybody and what increases the burnt spots is get a high amp batt with stock alt... here is why:

-High amp batt with low output alt----- will take FOREVER to get the battery charged back. If you think stock alt doesn't feed at iddle, then batt will get charge just reving up, then begins the burning process at EVERY SPOT ( bulkhead and ammeter ). THATS THE MOMENT when the gauge becomes on a weak point together with bulkhead terminals, with a playing needle back and forth.

-High output alt with low amps batt---- On an accidental batt discharge, the alternator will give you allmost an INSTANT recharge process getting full the batt quick, and the car will be feeded by the alt at the same time. On this status, the ammeter just will play WITH A DISCHARGED BATT and just for the time the batt is being recharged BUT NOT on the regular car operation.

You can have a BIG BATT with a BIG ALT without problem, or a MED BATT with a BIG ALT, or a MED ALT with a stock amperes batt but what you can't get ever on your car is a battery BIGGER than the alternator capacity. THAT IS the killer setup to our system, and by fail on design, is what we got from factory ( 400 to 500 batts with 35 to 50 amperes alts ) with increased risk when you upgraded only the batt... plus the GIANT pulley on alt.

If you ask me for opinion, a good and ENOUGH combo to our cars is close to 700 amps batt with a 65 to 80 amps alt ( the closer to 80 amps, the better ). This will hold also AC, newer stereos setups, and halogen headlights upgrades without problem and still with some headroom.

1000 amps alt ? maybe just if you add electric fans and water pumps ( and biiiiiig stereos powerplants ), but not necesarilly on a stock system with just some adds on like estated previously. You can get a 1000 amps alt if you want, but car will never demand that so will never get that output. Output is ONLY provided by demand of the system. If car and accesories demands just 80 amps, a 1000 amps alt will provide just those

I'm right now playing with 900 amps batt and 60 amps alternator, but just because I can't find the right 27 group batt with lower amps reserve and a better STOCK alt, but working on get 80 amps alt somehow ( locally, whithout buy from USA an internals upgrade kit ).

as stated is couple of threads before, if you get an alt able to feed the car without take power from batt, the system will be safe.

several good readings with some discussions and opinions

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,61947.0/all.html

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=4667031&an=&page=0&vc=1

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=4646894&an=&page=0&vc=1

you are free to choose what you want to make to make any electrical upgrade!   Myself, I like to keep ammeter working and I think and work to keep it but safe!

[Belgium R/T -68]

One of the most underestimated and important subjects. We do nothing else then to discuss our engines and bodywork but
tend to forget what can easyly kill any car if not taken care of in a proper way. Just my 

Per

[Nacho-RT74]

Also once everything is fixed to hold upgrades NEEDS TO TAKE CARE on hook correctly the relays upgrades.

ALLWAYS ON ALT SIDE, to keep this upgrades out of the ammeter play.

Relays hooked on Batt side will work like a discharged batt, allways sucking power from alt THROUGH AMMETER, without need for that.

Remember, ammeters reads battery status, and must read JUST BATTERY status. Devices hook on batt will give you wrong readings on ammeter like batt is sucking power from alt. It's a load that doesn't need to be there on ammeter.

Of course, when an alt gets broken, then all the load to feed the car will go through ammeter from batt including all the relays and equipment upgrades. THAT WILL BE A REAL SITUATION AND READING. And of course is BAD that happens to the ammeter specially being low rate ammeter ( 40 amps ), but the right procedure is reduce all the unneeded power consumption to minimun, just to the basic to keep car working up to home or a mechanic shop and fix. that Is not an ammeter fault.

[ZSmithersCharges]

Nacho, if I were to buy you a cape would you wear it?  Thank you!

[FLG]

Nacho, if I were to buy you a cape would you wear it?  Thank you!

[ZSmithersCharges]

Nacho, if I were to buy you a cape would you wear it?  Thank you!

Maybe a different color I don't think red suits him