Bleed the brakes

[Belgium R/T -68]

Are there any specific order of which wheel (brakecylinder) should be bleeded first when doing it with an empty system?

Per

[lisiecki1]

i was always taught to bleed the furthest point from the master first and then continue on with the next furthest and so on....so...passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front, driver front, in that order.

Randy

[bull]

i was always taught to bleed the furthest point from the master first and then continue on with the next furthest and so on....so...passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front, driver front, in that order.

Randy

That's what I was taught too. So far it's always worked out well. So basically you start with the RR, then LR, RF and LF last. Usually you have to repeat this process 2-3 times, or at least I always do to make sure all the air is out.

[b5blue]

No on a new system you bleed the master first and then move to farthest away. If the whole system is empty you better have a vacuum bleeder ready though....it's a pain in the butt sometimes.

[lisiecki1]

based on the question I assumed the master was already taken care of.

[Belgium R/T -68]

Please don't fight over this, I wasn't clear in my question.

So what do you mean by bleeding the master? The front wheels first then or?

Per

[b5blue]

Install or "bench bleed" the master by filling it up and running lines back up and into the reservoir so fluid circulates as you pump the piston. This clears all air out of the master. I meant no insult to others I just had one hell of a time recently with lines that were empty all the way to the back of the car and I believe the problem was a bubble in the master. (I ended up getting a bleeder that uses compressed air to generate vacuum)       

[FLG]

Install or "bench bleed" the master by filling it up and running lines back up and into the reservoir so fluid circulates as you pump the piston. This clears all air out of the master. I meant no insult to others I just had one hell of a time recently with lines that were empty all the way to the back of the car and I believe the problem was a bubble in the master. (I ended up getting a bleeder that uses compressed air to generate vacuum)       

The only thing i disagree with is running the lines back up to the reservoir. Better to let the fluid go out of the master to clean it, by  running the fluid back around your not cleaning it of any contaminates your just putting them back in.

[lisiecki1]

Please don't fight over this, I wasn't clear in my question.

So what do you mean by bleeding the master? The front wheels first then or?

Per

no fighting intended Per, just making a statement 

[Belgium R/T -68]

Bad joke from my side.

I checked the servicemanual on how to bleed the master, just like B5 says but I also agree that you drive any contamination back in the
system.

Per

[lisiecki1]

i would leave the lines out and flush for a couple of good pumps and then put the lines in to bleed and then install.....

[Belgium R/T -68]

When removing the lines at the distributor block I can bleed the master for the rear circuit but not the front I use my bleederpump
but the only thing coming out of the brakeline is small airbubbles. Any suggestions?

Per

[b5blue]

You might try pumping at the pedal to purge the air from the line. 

[Belgium R/T -68]

Tried at the mastercylinder and then it works, could it be that the pump doesn't have enough strength with the line mounted?
It's only about 10" difference from bleeding directly at the mastercylinder but maybe a weak pump.

Per

[b5blue]

Too much air...it's what I ran into when my lines were dry from front to back, I think the volume of air expands reducing suction (?) try getting gravity bleed action going and the bubbles seem to stop it. Can you hook a rubber hose to the line and squirt fluid in there to get you started maybe?  I ended up with a compressor air driven vacuum bleeder and even it I had to modify to pull harder, pain in the rump!   

[THERAMMAN]

fl...fr..rl..rr  that is the correct order
theramman.................the mopar brake answer man

[resq302]

fl...fr..rl..rr  that is the correct order
theramman.................the mopar brake answer man

Has the process changed from when I was in Auto shop in high school?  It always had been start with the furthest away from the master cylinder meaning the right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.  Of course this is after you bench bleed the master cylinder if you are putting a new one of them in.

[b5blue]

 

[lisiecki1]

fl...fr..rl..rr  that is the correct order
theramman.................the mopar brake answer man

that is exactly the reverse of how you should bleed it......i'll give you 50% credit.....

[Belgium R/T -68]

Have finally managed to bleed the mastercylinder but can't build up any pressure in the pedal to bleed the rest, found a leak at one
fitting and checked the rest without result. Even if it's air in the system, shouldn't it be possible to build up pedalpressure?
Any good advices on how to find a leak in new fittings?

Per

[b5blue]

Crack open a bleeder and let gravity get you going

[Belgium R/T -68]

Ok, but why is the pedal always hitting the floor?

Per

[b5blue]

Per I just got a new master cylinder for my car, in the instructions it said to plug the output lines and pump the master till bubbles stop appearing in reservoir, then bleed the master, I've never done this before but I going to try it. For gravity bleed you just leave it, no pumping.

[resq302]

The pedal is probably always hitting the floor because you probably have a lot of air still in the lines.  Air compreses, fluid does not, hence whey you have no pedal.  I would try doing a gravity bleed to at least get all the fluid going to each wheel.  Be sure you keep the master cylinder topped off, otherwise you will get air into the lines and have to start all over again.  What I did was I purchased a power bleeder kit.  Basically you have a bottle with a reservoir that you pump up with air pressure and it power bleeds the brakes pretty much forcing the fluid through the lines until the air is all bled out.

[maxwellwedge]

fl...fr..rl..rr  that is the correct order
theramman.................the mopar brake answer man

I always go RR, LR, RF and LF ... BUT... if you read the 69 FSM under the Disc Brake section, it does say to bleed the fronts first. I wonder if that has anything to do with the plunger in the metering block?