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No need of voltage regulator?

Started by Belgium R/T -68, October 04, 2009, 10:54:20 AM

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Belgium R/T -68

I have an alternator with only one connection to be done, I guess it has a regulator on it. Do I just put the cables forseen for the stock regulator together? :scratchchin:

Per
Charger -68 R/T 500 cui Stroker

A383Wing

What style & brand of alternator? Got a picture of it?

Belgium R/T -68

It's a TuffStuff 100A 1-wire, PN595 Chrysler alternator. The green and red wires are connected already on the alternator.

Per
Charger -68 R/T 500 cui Stroker

A383Wing

Well, it's hard to tell by that picture...is there a regulator mounted on the outside of the alternator? There is nowhere to mount one internally, no room. Where do the green & red wires go to that are connected to the alternator? I would contact the maker of the alternator and verify that you only connect the battery wire to the stud. You mention it's a 100amp unit....is your 40+ year old wiring up to par with that much amperage? Bulkhead connectors are a weak point also

Belgium R/T -68

First of all, thanks for caring. :2thumbs:

The red and green wires are connected to the regulator on the alternator. This text is on a note in the box:

"1-wire alternators require only 1-wire to operate. Reconnect only the main output wire to positive lug and remove or tape off all other excisting wires.
Do not remove plastic cover from regulator terminals on 7127 1-wire models."

For the wiring I have all new harnesses in the car and a rebuilt instrumentcluster by "lilwendal". I did though read that the ampmeter is a weak point. :scratchchin:

Per
Charger -68 R/T 500 cui Stroker

71_deputy

looks like a regular alt- two field wires.. need a better pic of the voltage reg. on the alt!

also your output stud is a little too close to the fuel pump- don't want and short on that puppy- also if it is a 100 amp unit- the wire you show on the output stud looks like a 14 or 12 gauge one- far too small in size to be good for a 100 amp. alt.
just my two cents
1971 Deputy Challenger 383 4bbl-- 1 of 2 made!!
1967 Charger 440/auto
1973 Road Runner 340/4 speed
2000 1500 Ram Van

b5blue

Try Google, I just did a search but couldn't figure out what one you have exactly.  :scratchchin:

Belgium R/T -68

Here it is. The red wire on the stud is from the alternator itself, not the fieldwire I have to attach.

Per

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCH-P595/
Charger -68 R/T 500 cui Stroker

A383Wing

No picture..but they say regulator is internal. I guess connect the battery wire to the alt stud, tape and put the 2 other original field wires out of the way and start it up.

It's either gonna charge or not...then we go from there

elacruze

A 100 amp alternator is capable of putting more load on a single V-belt than it can handle. I had one on a Chebby van I got out of a motor home, and with the single groove it howled and squealed if I ran the rpm up above idle for half a minute or so-after that I wasn't drawing max amps so didn't need it anyway...I was always tightening and replacing the belt due to the overload. Unless I can get two belts on it, I won't bother to go over 80 amps anymore.

Just FWIW. :Twocents:
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

b5blue

OK try this...you got a Tuffstuff alt with a Marsh Perf. serpentine pulley on it. Google "tuffstuff 100amp alt." and you will get several sites with diagrams. Sorry I can't give you a link. 

Nacho-RT74

thats basically a "regular" but high output alt with an attached regulator, that's all. Yes you don't need the OEM regulator, is already there. That's the way how "one wire alts" are made on Mopar setup.

If you attach somehow the OEM regulator to an alt will get same result, with diff the OEM regulator is too big to be attached to alt LOL.

Then, to check about ammeter and wiring stuff, check here:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

and here:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,61947.0.html

to the last thread, will require an upgrade on ammeter taking internals out from a later ammeter.

( what can I say, I'm an ammeter lover  :yesnod: :P )

If you ask me... 80 amps is more than enough on our cars, where electrical parts even being high consumption due the old tech, they are not too many to need that demand
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Belgium R/T -68

Thanks all. :2thumbs: I bought it because of it having the serpentine pulley already, guessed changing pulley would be difficult. :scratchchin:
In worst case, if the output will be a problem I have another one which gives 62A at idle and 94A highwayspeed although I need to change pulley
then. :eek2:

I guess my engineharness will have the connector for the stock regulator, just leave it alone for now? :scratchchin:

Per
Charger -68 R/T 500 cui Stroker