1973 SE Resto Project (Warning, LOTS OF PICTURES)

[Smokey Bear]

That would be a beautiful car if restored, and a reasonably ambitious project for a newbie without much resources, however I bought my first 318 powered Charger before I could drive, and it didnt run either. All my dad knew how to do was brake pads and oil changes. Now I've been rebuilding whole cars for almost 30 years. You learn it a little at a time and keep building on it. So get on it!

My advice:
1. Buy a reproduction shop manual (if available) or find an original. It will be worth waaaay more to you than what you pay for it.
2. Join a car club in the area and see if you can get hooked up with some people who can lend advice, and better yet a hand. There are a lot of older guys who want to see younger guys succeed with these cars.
3. Be realistic about time and money. You can do things right, but inexpensively if you have time and are willing to learn, but you can't do it for nothing. This car is going to suck up a lot of your time just to get it roadworthy, let alone complete. 

A few other questions that I don't think have been answered:

1. If the car has been in an unheated barn for 25-30 years and wont turn, the piston rings are likely rusted to the cylinder walls. If you lived in the desert this might not be the case. If you douse the cylinders with penetrating oil for awhile you might be able to free them. Probably not, and if you can free them, the cylinders will be scarred. It would likely still be drivable, but it won't be a peach.
2. How many miles are on it? Most cars don't get parked in the barn because they run great. You can probably expect that there are some unknown problems. 318's are great motors and will go for a long time even with bad rings rings and low oil pressure. In the day, many got parked when the timing chain finally gets so sloppy it skips a few teeth. I picked up a bunch of cheap/free Mopars and put them on the road for the cost of a timing chain set and 4 hours of labor. 
3. That long in a barn is also going to be hell on the brakes. I'm suprised it rolls. You are going to need to go through the system to have safe brakes, probably including master cylinder and slave cylinder work.
4. The gas tank will be bad as mentioned. You can hook a rubber line up to a plastic can for now to get it running.
5. Crank windows and regular locks are fairly simple systems, though they are obscured by the inner door sheet metal. If you take your door panels off you should be able to figure out the windows and locks if you have mechanical sense. Here's where a shop manual comes in handy.
6. You don't need a donor car if you can make friends with a welder and some sheet metal. Anything can be made, but the roof is definitely something you want repaired with strength. The A-pillars (windshield area) are critical to uni-body strength and need to be fixed correctly.

Good luck.

[Smokey Bear]

I had to go back and look at those pics again because something seemed different.....and was really bugging me......

Your SE is a total odd-ball, which is really cool. With the combination of a 318, column shift vinyl bench seat, the cheapest outside mirror option, no air conditioning, manual door locks and windows, no rear defog, and not even the inside hood release. It's like somebody paid for an SE Charger and all they got was the emblem and a lighting package (evidenced by the fender-mounted turn signal lights). Where's all the premium stuff you would expect on to find on an SE Charger?! Maybe I'm jaded because I get off on odd combination like this, but I really like your car    

I'm imagining a prospective Charger SE buyer back in 1973 being shown this car on the dealer lot and finding the /6 WL Charger sitting next to it having more options. WTF?!!  

It does look very stock and unmolested under all that dirt, and that's generally a good thing.  I hope are able to bring it back to life over time.

[SG1022]

Now, what exactly is that material used as trim between the chrome and body? The rubber stuff... it is dried and shrunk, are there kits I can buy to replace it?

Thst is our BIG HEADACHE to all 73/74 owners... OUR HEADACHE is a chronical disease called BUMPER FILLERS. Thats what a federal requirement for small collisions to keep the body a little bit more protected from that made, getting a little bigger gap than earliers between bumper and body. Once the gap was made, then a rubber ( yes they are rubber ) was fit to fill the gap. Thats it was in all brands and models.

No repro yet, sorry. Just QUIETE OFTEN appears somebody selling one repro I think "home made" of the center front bumper filler ( the first comes heavily damaged ) that looks a good option. I think rmemeber is on $150-180 rate.

There was some attemps to make repros of those some time ago, but still waiting wishing and hoping.

What has been made in all these years is remove fronts and get the bumper closer to body once holes on frame rail brackets are enlarged.

On rear the only solution is get 71/72 bumper brackets.

So, when I get the 71/72 brackets will it close the gap when I bolt it on? or will I need new bumpers also?

That would be a beautiful car if restored, and a reasonably ambitious project for a newbie without much resources, however I bought my first 318 powered Charger before I could drive, and it didnt run either. All my dad knew how to do was brake pads and oil changes. Now I've been rebuilding whole cars for almost 30 years. You learn it a little at a time and keep building on it. So get on it!

My advice:
1. Buy a reproduction shop manual (if available) or find an original. It will be worth waaaay more to you than what you pay for it.
2. Join a car club in the area and see if you can get hooked up with some people who can lend advice, and better yet a hand. There are a lot of older guys who want to see younger guys succeed with these cars.
3. Be realistic about time and money. You can do things right, but inexpensively if you have time and are willing to learn, but you can't do it for nothing. This car is going to suck up a lot of your time just to get it roadworthy, let alone complete.

A few other questions that I don't think have been answered:

1. If the car has been in an unheated barn for 25-30 years and wont turn, the piston rings are likely rusted to the cylinder walls. If you lived in the desert this might not be the case. If you douse the cylinders with penetrating oil for awhile you might be able to free them. Probably not, and if you can free them, the cylinders will be scarred. It would likely still be drivable, but it won't be a peach.
2. How many miles are on it? Most cars don't get parked in the barn because they run great. You can probably expect that there are some unknown problems. 318's are great motors and will go for a long time even with bad rings rings and low oil pressure. In the day, many got parked when the timing chain finally gets so sloppy it skips a few teeth. I picked up a bunch of cheap/free Mopars and put them on the road for the cost of a timing chain set and 4 hours of labor.
3. That long in a barn is also going to be hell on the brakes. I'm suprised it rolls. You are going to need to go through the system to have safe brakes, probably including master cylinder and slave cylinder work.
4. The gas tank will be bad as mentioned. You can hook a rubber line up to a plastic can for now to get it running.
5. Crank windows and regular locks are fairly simple systems, though they are obscured by the inner door sheet metal. If you take your door panels off you should be able to figure out the windows and locks if you have mechanical sense. Here's where a shop manual comes in handy.
6. You don't need a donor car if you can make friends with a welder and some sheet metal. Anything can be made, but the roof is definitely something you want repaired with strength. The A-pillars (windshield area) are critical to uni-body strength and need to be fixed correctly.

Good luck.

I have been looking for a chiltons, but haven't been able to find one other than generic engine manuals.

I am also looking for a club to join, any recommendations on a club that has local chapters around the states(PDX oregon)?

I had to go back and look at those pics again because something seemed different.....and was really bugging me......

Your SE is a total odd-ball, which is really cool. With the combination of a 318, column shift vinyl bench seat, the cheapest outside mirror option, no air conditioning, manual door locks and windows, no rear defog, and not even the inside hood release. It's like somebody paid for an SE Charger and all they got was the emblem and a lighting package (evidenced by the fender-mounted turn signal lights). Where's all the premium stuff you would expect on to find on an SE Charger?! Maybe I'm jaded because I get off on odd combination like this, but I really like your car  2thumbs  

I'm imagining a prospective Charger SE buyer back in 1973 being shown this car on the dealer lot and finding the /6 WL Charger sitting next to it having more options. WTF?!!  lol

It does look very stock and unmolested under all that dirt, and that's generally a good thing.  I hope are able to bring it back to life over time.

Hey, but the emblem sure is a nice one!!  

Even I found it a bit weird.




New Questions
-If I do go with a 440/727 , what other changes will I need to make other then mounts/brackets?  I.E. my cousin wanted a lift kit on his jeep.  We put it on , then the wheels looked funny with  a bigger lift, so we had to buy bigger wheels and tires.  Once we had that on we had some legality issues with under sized mud flares, so we had to replace those.  So what should I be looking for?will it snowball into a HUGE conversion?

-Although I am not going to be able to do any serious resto work , I am going to be buying the parts and putting together parts/to do lists.  The first thing I wanted to do was rewire the car, redo all the lines, fuel etc, and replace the gas tank/ interior dash among other things. Keep in mind that if I do(and I am pretty set on this) get a 440/727 for my car it will be a combo pulled from a car that runs with in a week of me buying it, so we can assume that the engine is working.

Wiring-painless performance 12 circuit wiring harness. I like this product because it seems like as simple an installation as one can get, an some new friends of mine who happen to own multiple self-restored mopars(their son is also a proffesional restorer) said it is a great product.  Any opinions on it? it is pretty spendy

Fuel lines/hoses-How does one usually go about doing this? pulling their old line and finding an aftermarket line that will fit online or at an auto parts store? Is there some kind of total line replacement I can buy for my car similar to the painless performance wiring harness for the electrics?

parts I haven't found, and or need help finding a reliable quality manufacturer that will fit my 1973 SE(assuming it has a 440 and  a727 in it)
-Gas tank
-Air filter
-Carb
-Exhaust system
-battery
-gas filters
-oil filter
-spark plugs
-replacement dash, with pad. Is this the best way to go?

I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask people who had direct experience with mopar , and mopar restorations... instead of asking my local napa employee.

[Charger440RDN]

Great choice of engine and tranny Might as well build it once and go all out, you won't be dissapointed with the 440. 

[SG1022]

Great choice of engine and tranny Might as well build it once and go all out, you won't be dissapointed with the 440. 

Thanks!

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/1414272016.html

looks pretty good 

[Charger440RDN]

That engine does look good Good price on that combo too!! Clean it up and drop it in 

Here is a little motivation

[SG1022]

That engine does look good Good price on that combo too!! Clean it up and drop it in  

Here is a little motivation

And that is motivation enough!!

Now.. to clean it up and what paint to use...

[SG1022]

Hmm, kinda leaning towards this one now

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/1417582646.html


earlier block, with forged instead of cast crank. Also, 200 dollars off!

[Nacho-RT74]

So, when I get the 71/72 brackets will it close the gap when I bolt it on? or will I need new bumpers also?

Just the brackets, no need for the bumper, however couple of holes for the corner fillers studs on top of bumper COULD IT BE slightly visible once mounted. You can fill them up with small chromed bolts like the bumper ones if too much visible to your taste, or also change the bumper... it's all up to you

[SG1022]

Just Found these on CL

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/1440873350.html

Will those bolt on to my stock 73 ?

What problems will I run into?

[Rayzor]

There is a fair 74 charger sitting in the junkyard down in springfield. Interior is decent but black. Car has a 400 BB in it. Might be a source for parts for ya. Its at springfield auto wreckers. By the way, welcome to the board.

[SG1022]

There is a fair 74 charger sitting in the junkyard down in springfield. Interior is decent but black. Car has a 400 BB in it. Might be a source for parts for ya. Its at springfield auto wreckers. By the way, welcome to the board.

Hey, Thanks much! I will have to look into that. Are you affiliated with them, or know them well?

[Rayzor]

Nope, have only bought parts there before. I have a 68 that I been working on past few years on a .00 budget so I thought the info might help someone starting out. I live down near albany and have a few Charger buddies in the area so we all kinda network on parts etc. in the area. Unless we are busy searching for 22 shells to feed the 10/22.

[SG1022]

Nope, have only bought parts there before. I have a 68 that I been working on past few years on a .00 budget so I thought the info might help someone starting out. I live down near albany and have a few Charger buddies in the area so we all kinda network on parts etc. in the area. Unless we are busy searching for 22 shells to feed the 10/22.

Called them today and they are going to send me some pictures     Thanks for the heads up!

Anychance you guys will drive any of your chargers to the albany swap meet ont he 14th? Last one of the year.

I recently got a few bricks of Aguila bulk for 20$ a brick(about 10-15$ off)   At the Canby Gunshow, need anything for your 10/22?

[Rayzor]

My buddies 74 has the motor out etc. while we paint it and my 68 is waiting on a new driveshaft and disc brakes so no drive time for us. As far as 10/22 goes, I scored some new Rem GB,s the other day so I am good there. I think I have done every mod you can think of and still kept the factory carbine look. I just did the bolt radius the other day and it was worth it. Never can tell when zombies may try and steal the charger and I dont wanna lose it for lack of not shootin back!  

[SG1022]

My buddies 74 has the motor out etc. while we paint it and my 68 is waiting on a new driveshaft and disc brakes so no drive time for us. As far as 10/22 goes, I scored some new Rem GB,s the other day so I am good there. I think I have done every mod you can think of and still kept the factory carbine look. I just did the bolt radius the other day and it was worth it. Never can tell when zombies may try and steal the charger and I dont wanna lose it for lack of not shootin back!  

You feed your baby golden bullets!!! 

If you haven't gotten your bolt/reciever jeweled I will do it for free for ya as soon as I get my new brushes.

[Rayzor]

The GB's group really well for me and no issues. I cant get it to eat feds for nothing though. Thanks for the offer on the jeweling. I have already planned on doing it just need to repolish it first. But Ihave all winter to get fat and play with the toys. I have not had the charger going in almost 6 years so its getting my time this winter. Just bought a new radiator today. My car started out as a slant six, and now has a 440 in its place. If you go the big block route, do yourself a favor. Draw up a budget and time frame. Then triple it just before you throw that out the window.

[SG1022]

The GB's group really well for me and no issues. I cant get it to eat feds for nothing though. Thanks for the offer on the jeweling. I have already planned on doing it just need to repolish it first. But Ihave all winter to get fat and play with the toys. I have not had the charger going in almost 6 years so its getting my time this winter. Just bought a new radiator today. My car started out as a slant six, and now has a 440 in its place. If you go the big block route, do yourself a favor. Draw up a budget and time frame. Then triple it just before you throw that out the window.

You know what, I have actually heard some good things about the VERY recent lots of GBs.  Me personally if I am shooting bulk I like to shoot aguila or federal.  Don't want to put GB in my 1,400 dollar .2-You probably don't want to put gas into your charger from a 50 year old can you found in your dads barn or something.

Although, I did grow up shooting rem GBs and lightnings out of my single shot bolt action    , it's just a few years ago I bought a few bricks and ended up getting 4-5 out FTFs out of my 25 round magazine in a perfectly tuned .22.  I looked at one and it was completley missing the primer 
Let me know if you want some custom finishing jobs.  Hopefully I can use my rifle finishing skills on some car pieces !

[71_Charger_R/T]

Hey, Welcome to the site! Nice to see you wanting to bring another 3rd generation Charger back from the brink. Here's some good reading to give you a little inspiration to keep going if you get discouraged. These kids started out with very little knowledge and a lot of zeal and have proven many "Nay Sayers" wrong on the budget aspect of their project, although they admit they missed the mark on their schedule. They have learned a ton of stuff on their journey to restore this car and have become quite skilled at it if I might say so!  
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=3637595&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
Again...Welcome, and don't hesitate to ask about anything you don't know about, There's a ton of knowledge and experience these guys and gals possess.

[SG1022]

Hey, Welcome to the site! Nice to see you wanting to bring another 3rd generation Charger back from the brink. Here's some good reading to give you a little inspiration to keep going if you get discouraged. These kids started out with very little knowledge and a lot of zeal and have proven many "Nay Sayers" wrong on the budget aspect of their project, although they admit they missed the mark on their schedule. They have learned a ton of stuff on their journey to restore this car and have become quite skilled at it if I might say so!  
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=3637595&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
Again...Welcome, and don't hesitate to ask about anything you don't know about, There's a ton of knowledge and experience these guys and gals possess.

Thanks alot for the inspirational words 

I am on page 3, and am thoroughly enjoying this thread.  Looks like I will have to register there.


Looking through their thread, looks like they have a great shop, and some great tools to work with! What I wouldn't give to have acess to those . Also looke like they have alot more knowlege than me, time to hit the books!

I am going tomorrow to pick up some tools from my grandpa that he says he won't be needing anymore(Former Mopar Mechanic) , 1.6 million miles on his diesel ram, with only one engine swap at 600k    I can't believe they got that donor car for 300     I know people who pay over 300 for sheet metal!

[Rayzor]

Yea the GB's dont have the best rep. But in the past 4-5 thousand rounds I have not had one issue with them in the 10/22. My marlin will not even look at them. But I have taken so manny coyote and several bobcat that I just shoot what I know what works for me. Hey thats nice gun work, I would be afraid to drag that threw the brush, it would be like taken a charger 4 wheeling.