1973 SE Resto Project (Warning, LOTS OF PICTURES)

[SG1022]

Where to start. . .

Short Bio,

I am working on restoring my 1973 Charger, and will be needing a ton of help 

My name is Taylor, and I am a 17 year old highschool senior from Oregon.  I do a lot of hunting and shooting, along with building custom Ruger 10/22s.  Some of my  other hobbies include boxing, and reading about Chargers.  From the age of eight I have known that I wanted a charger and wouldn't settle for anything else .

My family owns a new Tahoe, a Honda Civic,a Chevy Astro and a Jeep Cherokee. My father is a software engineer, and I didn't really grow up around engines, and have never truly worked on one other than basic stuff.  An uncle of mine worked for a few mills doing repair and welding.  He has a worldclass shop that I will have access to that I can get almost any fabrication work done in. The problem is he doesn't' have very much free time. I like to think that mechanical things come easy to m  .

So with my very limited knowledge , I am going to have to as ya to pardon my ignorance.


After designating a few months of pay I got from working at my family's Antique store(biggest in the NW!) I came across the right deal on Craigslist.

A 1973 Charger SE with a 318 and 727 in Super Blue for 1,250.


My plan for it is to eventually do a full restoration from the ground up, but the operative word is "eventually".  At the moment I am focusing on getting it drivable .

I think my to do list will look something like this

-Get engine running
-Make sure all essential driving functions are working, I.E.-lights, brakes, dash console
-stripping interior and cleaning inside
-Repairing rust spots and holes, drivers side front pillar an rear quarter, passenger floor pan
-Rewire the car
-new upholstery
-new paint


What I know about the car(other than the stuff that is obvious from the outside):
-Bought it from a guy who wanted to resto a car for his son, he bought it from a guys grandson who listed it on craigslist for him. I know stuff like that isn't always true, but I believe it.  The guy I bought the car from was a good guy who's occupation was car auto body.
-it was stored in a barn with it's windows down since the early 80s
-I do not know why or even if the engine doesn't run at this point
-the passenger side window is missing
-when I plugged in a battery(that was VERY low if not dead) the brake light lit up on the dash and it tried to turn over but sounded like it didn't have enough juice.

Here are the pictures:


















As I mentioned above in my short bio, my resources are very limited, and I will be doing this on my own with the help of this forum(if you are willing to give it). So let the questions begin!

[SG1022]

Current Questions

-What is the best way to open the trunk? The key goes into the lock then just keeps turning
-Once I get a battery, what are some basic steps I can take to diagnose my engine
-What is the best way to repair a rear quarter that has rust holes only on the very bottom
-What is the best way to repair the front driver window pillar(see above picture for holes) with out ruining the.. hollowness? that lets the wires pass through
-Where can I find some blown up diagrams of the doors , neither of my windows roll up , and the locks don't function
-I know that some parts of the car are universal with some other car models and years of related E bodies, such as the dash, what parts are these? do they include body parts?

I am kind of strapped for cash, but I found a 318 that I could possibly trade some of my old auto related signs for,
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/1400031903.html
Does it look like a good idea? it is used, but it runs.  The only aftermarket parts as far as they know are the edelbrock valve covers, and edelbrock intake.  Will I be able to drop this engine in, and will it hook up to my 727?



Many many more to come

And let me give a thanks in advance  

[bordin34]

Nice looking project you've go there.
The best way to open the trunk if the key doesn't work would probably be to remove the back seat, climb into the trunk and remove the lock cylinder. Then you take a long screwdriver and stick it where the cylinder way from the outside and turn it to the right.
Once you get a battery you should, check out the air filter and make sure that rats haven't built a nest up there. I would also at least replace all of the rubber fuel lines and get a new gas tank. Any gas left in the tank is probably varnish by now and the tank could be very rusty. Then I would buy some pb blaster and shoot it in all the spark plug holes and let it sit a day or two. The buy some new plugs. I would also change the oil and filter even if you don't know if it runs.
The best way to repair the quarter will probably be to just replace the entire thing, there will probably be some hidden rust.
To repair that pillar, you will probably need to find a donor car.
I have no idea if such a diagram exists for the door. There may be one in the FSM.

[SG1022]

Nice looking project you've go there.
The best way to open the trunk if the key doesn't work would probably be to remove the back seat, climb into the trunk and remove the lock cylinder. Then you take a long screwdriver and stick it where the cylinder way from the outside and turn it to the right.
Once you get a battery you should, check out the air filter and make sure that rats haven't built a nest up there. I would also at least replace all of the rubber fuel lines and get a new gas tank. Any gas left in the tank is probably varnish by now and the tank could be very rusty. Then I would buy some pb blaster and shoot it in all the spark plug holes and let it sit a day or two. The buy some new plugs. I would also change the oil and filter even if you don't know if it runs.
The best way to repair the quarter will probably be to just replace the entire thing, there will probably be some hidden rust.
To repair that pillar, you will probably need to find a donor car.
I have no idea if such a diagram exists for the door. There may be one in the FSM.

Thanks for the reply

I took out the dipstick, and the oil looked great, does that mean anything? 
Will I need to replace the gas tank or is there anything I can do the current tank instead of finding a whole new one?

[bordin34]

For a quick start up the oil will probably be fine, I would at least replace the filter just in case.
For the gas tank, there isn't really much you can do, once it starts rusting little flakes come off and go into your fuel and clog everything. I think eastwood sells a sealer kit or something like that, you could try that I don't know how well it would work though.

[SG1022]

For a quick start up the oil will probably be fine, I would at least replace the filter just in case.
For the gas tank, there isn't really much you can do, once it starts rusting little flakes come off and go into your fuel and clog everything. I think eastwood sells a sealer kit or something like that, you could try that I don't know how well it would work though.

yeah, sounds like it will be better to just buy a new one.

As far as the pillar, is the donar car really the only option?

[bordin34]

I would think that would be the easiest option unless you are really good at fabbing metal.

[Nacho-RT74]

OUCH!!! THE ROOF!!! A and C pillars, but specially C pillars

[Nacho-RT74]

Current Questions

-What is the best way to open the trunk? The key goes into the lock then just keeps turning

pull it out HARDLY... latch and cilinder will jump. If you have somebody able to help, better, one on each side to pull it out. ( thats how thiefs made down here to open trunks LOL ). If cilinder is spinning inside who cares ? you will have to replace anyway.

-Where can I find some blown up diagrams of the doors , neither of my windows roll up , and the locks don't function

http://wichargerguy.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=paint&thread=5345&page=1#35676

-I know that some parts of the car are universal with some other car models and years of related E bodies, such as the dash, what parts are these? do they include body parts?

Dash and plastic parts from just 2 doors B bodies. Some years does have slight changes though. Forgett about E bodies parts. Just suspension is teh same with 71/72

I am kind of strapped for cash, but I found a 318 that I could possibly trade some of my old auto related signs for,
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/1400031903.html
Does it look like a good idea? it is used, but it runs.  The only aftermarket parts as far as they know are the edelbrock valve covers, and edelbrock intake.  Will I be able to drop this engine in, and will it hook up to my 727?

why ? fix your one will cost about the same than get one and check it inside to notice will need job too. Use what You already have. At the end you won't use your car for long time and will get cash to make your engine setup as wished. Don't spend on something you don't need because YOU ALREADY HAVE an engine. Diff stuff would it be if car is in good exterior conditions and just need an engine ready to go to inmediatly use it OR being an engine upgrade ( from SB to BB for example ).

are you sure you got a 727 ? no one 318 got 727 on these years, just 340s

[SG1022]

Current Questions

-What is the best way to open the trunk? The key goes into the lock then just keeps turning

pull it out HARDLY... latch and cilinder will jump. If you have somebody able to help, better, one on each side to pull it out. ( thats how thiefs made down here to open trunks LOL ). If cilinder is spinning inside who cares ? you will have to replace anyway.

-Where can I find some blown up diagrams of the doors , neither of my windows roll up , and the locks don't function

http://wichargerguy.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=paint&thread=5345&page=1#35676

-I know that some parts of the car are universal with some other car models and years of related E bodies, such as the dash, what parts are these? do they include body parts?

Dash and plastic parts from just 2 doors B bodies. Some years does have slight changes though. Forgett about E bodies parts. Just suspension is teh same with 71/72

I am kind of strapped for cash, but I found a 318 that I could possibly trade some of my old auto related signs for,
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/1400031903.html
Does it look like a good idea? it is used, but it runs.  The only aftermarket parts as far as they know are the edelbrock valve covers, and edelbrock intake.  Will I be able to drop this engine in, and will it hook up to my 727?

why ? fix your one will cost about the same than get one and check it inside to notice will need job too. Use what You already have. At the end you won't use your car for long time and will get cash to make your engine setup as wished. Don't spend on something you don't need because YOU ALREADY HAVE an engine. Diff stuff would it be if car is in good exterior conditions and just need an engine ready to go to inmediatly use it OR being an engine upgrade ( from SB to BB for example ).

are you sure you got a 727 ? no one 318 got 727 on these years, just 340s

I thought it was a 727. how do I check?

[jaak]

quickest way to tell is look at the passenger side of the fluid pan, if it buldges out its a 727, if not its a 904.
BTW....cool project 

Jason

[SG1022]

quickest way to tell is look at the passenger side of the fluid pan, if it buldges out its a 727, if not its a 904.
BTW....cool project 

Jason

Thanks much!

I thought 904's were only for bigblocks?

[jaak]

quickest way to tell is look at the passenger side of the fluid pan, if it buldges out its a 727, if not its a 904.
BTW....cool project 

Jason

Thanks much!

I thought 904's were only for bigblocks?

Nope...all big blocks had 727. Small blocks had 904's... except performance models they had a small block 727 trans. Your 318 car more than likely has a 904.

Jason

[69bronzeT5]

Welcome to the site! I'm 16. Looking forward to seeing more of your project

[RD]

nice starting point, i see your 73 SE has the same pivotal rust points as mine thanks to the vinyl roof.  good luck!!!

[Nacho-RT74]

quickest way to tell is look at the passenger side of the fluid pan, if it buldges out its a 727, if not its a 904.
BTW....cool project  

Jason

Thanks much!

I thought 904's were only for bigblocks?

not, likely opposite LOL... as stated...

welcome and you can count on lot of ppl to help

[BROCK]

Eastwood does sell a really good kit for restoring
a gastank that has no holes in it.  I don't think
your gastank will prove usable - but, to be sure,
you can remove it & clean it up with scalding hot
soapy water on the inside & out.  Then you'll know!

New gastanks are pretty reasonable!!

[SG1022]

Eastwood does sell a really good kit for restoring
a gastank that has no holes in it.  I don't think
your gastank will prove usable - but, to be sure,
you can remove it & clean it up with scalding hot
soapy water on the inside & out.  Then you'll know!

New gastanks are pretty reasonable!!

What does their kit include, and do you have a link?

How would you guys suggest I buy hoses and wiring? Are there kits that aren't over priced? Are there any recommended kits?

[TUFCAT]

WELCOME!

It's always cool to see more young guys coming aboard interested in old Mopars.  I wish this forum was invented 25 years when we were kids - unfortunately we had to make our own mistakes.

Good news:

You're doing the right thing by asking questions. This is the best place to learn about the hobby and get more acquainted with your car. You'll find our members very eager to help you acquire the knowledge needed to rebuild it.

Bad news:

This hobby isn't for the faint of heart. Projects like yours require enormous time and money commitments.  Take inventory of your car, and make a decision of the best course of action. No offense, but unless this car represents a significant sentimental value to you its a parts car. Lot's of cars in worse shape have been brought back from the dead, but 1973 318 Chargers can be owned for a lot less than a "decent" restoration would cost on this one.

[SG1022]

WELCOME!

Good news:

You're doing the right thing by asking questions. This is the best place to learn about the hobby and get more acquainted with your car. You'll find our members very eager to help you acquire the knowledge needed to rebuild it.

Bad news:

This hobby isn't for the faint of heart. Projects like yours require enormous time and money commitments.  Take inventory of your car, and make a decision of the best course of action. No offense, but unless this car represents a significant sentimental value to you its a parts car. Lot's of cars in worse shape have been brought back from the dead, but 1973 318 Chargers can be owned for a lot less than a "decent" restoration would cost on this one.

Well, that was sobering.  I plan on putting all my time and resources into.  At the moment I am focusing on getting it running. 

I believe that the car is better than it looks in the pictures, since I was taking pictures to point out the worse parts of the car.  The body is straight and everything lines up.

The rust under the old vinyl is bad though.

[TUFCAT]

I didn't mean to pee in your pool dude, really!!     I only wish you the best, and no discouragment intended.

[SG1022]

I didn't mean to pee in your pool dude, really!!     I only wish you the best, and no discouragment intended.

No hard feelings!

It will be tough to do on my budget.

[FLG]

Welcome!!

I agree with TUFF but the rest of the car does look decent. Lower quarters look shot but the rest of the body seems OK

Hows the floors/frame??

I know how you feel with budget, Im 20 got my charger 2 years ago, before it i had a ford i put alot into and wound up getting rid of it because it simply wasnt worth it.

Honestly just to get that car in driver shape your looking at a couple grand (depending on how much you do yourself).

No discouragement, but be prepared. This hobby aint cheap.

[SG1022]

Welcome!!

I agree with TUFF but the rest of the car does look decent. Lower quarters look shot but the rest of the body seems OK

Hows the floors/frame??

I know how you feel with budget, Im 20 got my charger 2 years ago, before it i had a ford i put alot into and wound up getting rid of it because it simply wasnt worth it.

Honestly just to get that car in driver shape your looking at a couple grand (depending on how much you do yourself).

No discouragement, but be prepared. This hobby aint cheap.

Yep, I am hoping that by using my uncles shop(and his materials, the raw metal he has layin around), and by doing as much as I possibly can myself I can save some cash.

I'm not going for show quality right now

[Nacho-RT74]

my advice is, if your car is not a need for a driver, make everything ONCE. Think on the best project you can get or you think to get, but spend just once.

for example, having an engine you don't need another engine, get the money on the one you already have and make it as your wish, with performance added if you want. You can get good juice from a 318, close to 300 HP without LOTS of mods and adds ( they are not anchor boats as lot of ppl thinks, they are very reliable engines ), and get dual exhaust for it. Headers if you want. Add mild performance on to an engine will cost allmost the same than a stock rebuilt.

If you think on buckets instead bench, then don't spend fixing the bench cover, go once to buckets and everything related, floor shift and console if you want, even they were available column shifter and buckets with and without buddy seat.

Don't go with a cheap dash cap, go once with dash pad rebuild service. Will cost about 4 times more but you'll be 10 times more satisfied.

etc...

but think on what you have in mind and what are the funds for it ( actually and expected ). Take your time but make it ONCE. If you make something like a first step, try to make it easier to go on to next level. Make your first step is valuable to meet the next one.

As stated this is not a cheap hobby, even less on Mopars, but funny and getting satisfaction when making it right