1973 SE Resto Project (Warning, LOTS OF PICTURES)

[SG1022]

Where to start. . .

Short Bio,

I am working on restoring my 1973 Charger, and will be needing a ton of help 

My name is Taylor, and I am a 17 year old highschool senior from Oregon.  I do a lot of hunting and shooting, along with building custom Ruger 10/22s.  Some of my  other hobbies include boxing, and reading about Chargers.  From the age of eight I have known that I wanted a charger and wouldn't settle for anything else .

My family owns a new Tahoe, a Honda Civic,a Chevy Astro and a Jeep Cherokee. My father is a software engineer, and I didn't really grow up around engines, and have never truly worked on one other than basic stuff.  An uncle of mine worked for a few mills doing repair and welding.  He has a worldclass shop that I will have access to that I can get almost any fabrication work done in. The problem is he doesn't' have very much free time. I like to think that mechanical things come easy to m  .

So with my very limited knowledge , I am going to have to as ya to pardon my ignorance.


After designating a few months of pay I got from working at my family's Antique store(biggest in the NW!) I came across the right deal on Craigslist.

A 1973 Charger SE with a 318 and 727 in Super Blue for 1,250.


My plan for it is to eventually do a full restoration from the ground up, but the operative word is "eventually".  At the moment I am focusing on getting it drivable .

I think my to do list will look something like this

-Get engine running
-Make sure all essential driving functions are working, I.E.-lights, brakes, dash console
-stripping interior and cleaning inside
-Repairing rust spots and holes, drivers side front pillar an rear quarter, passenger floor pan
-Rewire the car
-new upholstery
-new paint


What I know about the car(other than the stuff that is obvious from the outside):
-Bought it from a guy who wanted to resto a car for his son, he bought it from a guys grandson who listed it on craigslist for him. I know stuff like that isn't always true, but I believe it.  The guy I bought the car from was a good guy who's occupation was car auto body.
-it was stored in a barn with it's windows down since the early 80s
-I do not know why or even if the engine doesn't run at this point
-the passenger side window is missing
-when I plugged in a battery(that was VERY low if not dead) the brake light lit up on the dash and it tried to turn over but sounded like it didn't have enough juice.

Here are the pictures:


















As I mentioned above in my short bio, my resources are very limited, and I will be doing this on my own with the help of this forum(if you are willing to give it). So let the questions begin!

[SG1022]

Current Questions

-What is the best way to open the trunk? The key goes into the lock then just keeps turning
-Once I get a battery, what are some basic steps I can take to diagnose my engine
-What is the best way to repair a rear quarter that has rust holes only on the very bottom
-What is the best way to repair the front driver window pillar(see above picture for holes) with out ruining the.. hollowness? that lets the wires pass through
-Where can I find some blown up diagrams of the doors , neither of my windows roll up , and the locks don't function
-I know that some parts of the car are universal with some other car models and years of related E bodies, such as the dash, what parts are these? do they include body parts?

I am kind of strapped for cash, but I found a 318 that I could possibly trade some of my old auto related signs for,
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/1400031903.html
Does it look like a good idea? it is used, but it runs.  The only aftermarket parts as far as they know are the edelbrock valve covers, and edelbrock intake.  Will I be able to drop this engine in, and will it hook up to my 727?



Many many more to come

And let me give a thanks in advance  

[bordin34]

Nice looking project you've go there.
The best way to open the trunk if the key doesn't work would probably be to remove the back seat, climb into the trunk and remove the lock cylinder. Then you take a long screwdriver and stick it where the cylinder way from the outside and turn it to the right.
Once you get a battery you should, check out the air filter and make sure that rats haven't built a nest up there. I would also at least replace all of the rubber fuel lines and get a new gas tank. Any gas left in the tank is probably varnish by now and the tank could be very rusty. Then I would buy some pb blaster and shoot it in all the spark plug holes and let it sit a day or two. The buy some new plugs. I would also change the oil and filter even if you don't know if it runs.
The best way to repair the quarter will probably be to just replace the entire thing, there will probably be some hidden rust.
To repair that pillar, you will probably need to find a donor car.
I have no idea if such a diagram exists for the door. There may be one in the FSM.

[SG1022]

Nice looking project you've go there.
The best way to open the trunk if the key doesn't work would probably be to remove the back seat, climb into the trunk and remove the lock cylinder. Then you take a long screwdriver and stick it where the cylinder way from the outside and turn it to the right.
Once you get a battery you should, check out the air filter and make sure that rats haven't built a nest up there. I would also at least replace all of the rubber fuel lines and get a new gas tank. Any gas left in the tank is probably varnish by now and the tank could be very rusty. Then I would buy some pb blaster and shoot it in all the spark plug holes and let it sit a day or two. The buy some new plugs. I would also change the oil and filter even if you don't know if it runs.
The best way to repair the quarter will probably be to just replace the entire thing, there will probably be some hidden rust.
To repair that pillar, you will probably need to find a donor car.
I have no idea if such a diagram exists for the door. There may be one in the FSM.

Thanks for the reply

I took out the dipstick, and the oil looked great, does that mean anything? 
Will I need to replace the gas tank or is there anything I can do the current tank instead of finding a whole new one?

[bordin34]

For a quick start up the oil will probably be fine, I would at least replace the filter just in case.
For the gas tank, there isn't really much you can do, once it starts rusting little flakes come off and go into your fuel and clog everything. I think eastwood sells a sealer kit or something like that, you could try that I don't know how well it would work though.

[SG1022]

For a quick start up the oil will probably be fine, I would at least replace the filter just in case.
For the gas tank, there isn't really much you can do, once it starts rusting little flakes come off and go into your fuel and clog everything. I think eastwood sells a sealer kit or something like that, you could try that I don't know how well it would work though.

yeah, sounds like it will be better to just buy a new one.

As far as the pillar, is the donar car really the only option?

[bordin34]

I would think that would be the easiest option unless you are really good at fabbing metal.

[Nacho-RT74]

OUCH!!! THE ROOF!!! A and C pillars, but specially C pillars

[Nacho-RT74]

Current Questions

-What is the best way to open the trunk? The key goes into the lock then just keeps turning

pull it out HARDLY... latch and cilinder will jump. If you have somebody able to help, better, one on each side to pull it out. ( thats how thiefs made down here to open trunks LOL ). If cilinder is spinning inside who cares ? you will have to replace anyway.

-Where can I find some blown up diagrams of the doors , neither of my windows roll up , and the locks don't function

http://wichargerguy.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=paint&thread=5345&page=1#35676

-I know that some parts of the car are universal with some other car models and years of related E bodies, such as the dash, what parts are these? do they include body parts?

Dash and plastic parts from just 2 doors B bodies. Some years does have slight changes though. Forgett about E bodies parts. Just suspension is teh same with 71/72

I am kind of strapped for cash, but I found a 318 that I could possibly trade some of my old auto related signs for,
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/1400031903.html
Does it look like a good idea? it is used, but it runs.  The only aftermarket parts as far as they know are the edelbrock valve covers, and edelbrock intake.  Will I be able to drop this engine in, and will it hook up to my 727?

why ? fix your one will cost about the same than get one and check it inside to notice will need job too. Use what You already have. At the end you won't use your car for long time and will get cash to make your engine setup as wished. Don't spend on something you don't need because YOU ALREADY HAVE an engine. Diff stuff would it be if car is in good exterior conditions and just need an engine ready to go to inmediatly use it OR being an engine upgrade ( from SB to BB for example ).

are you sure you got a 727 ? no one 318 got 727 on these years, just 340s

[SG1022]

Current Questions

-What is the best way to open the trunk? The key goes into the lock then just keeps turning

pull it out HARDLY... latch and cilinder will jump. If you have somebody able to help, better, one on each side to pull it out. ( thats how thiefs made down here to open trunks LOL ). If cilinder is spinning inside who cares ? you will have to replace anyway.

-Where can I find some blown up diagrams of the doors , neither of my windows roll up , and the locks don't function

http://wichargerguy.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=paint&thread=5345&page=1#35676

-I know that some parts of the car are universal with some other car models and years of related E bodies, such as the dash, what parts are these? do they include body parts?

Dash and plastic parts from just 2 doors B bodies. Some years does have slight changes though. Forgett about E bodies parts. Just suspension is teh same with 71/72

I am kind of strapped for cash, but I found a 318 that I could possibly trade some of my old auto related signs for,
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/1400031903.html
Does it look like a good idea? it is used, but it runs.  The only aftermarket parts as far as they know are the edelbrock valve covers, and edelbrock intake.  Will I be able to drop this engine in, and will it hook up to my 727?

why ? fix your one will cost about the same than get one and check it inside to notice will need job too. Use what You already have. At the end you won't use your car for long time and will get cash to make your engine setup as wished. Don't spend on something you don't need because YOU ALREADY HAVE an engine. Diff stuff would it be if car is in good exterior conditions and just need an engine ready to go to inmediatly use it OR being an engine upgrade ( from SB to BB for example ).

are you sure you got a 727 ? no one 318 got 727 on these years, just 340s

I thought it was a 727. how do I check?

[jaak]

quickest way to tell is look at the passenger side of the fluid pan, if it buldges out its a 727, if not its a 904.
BTW....cool project 

Jason

[SG1022]

quickest way to tell is look at the passenger side of the fluid pan, if it buldges out its a 727, if not its a 904.
BTW....cool project 

Jason

Thanks much!

I thought 904's were only for bigblocks?

[jaak]

quickest way to tell is look at the passenger side of the fluid pan, if it buldges out its a 727, if not its a 904.
BTW....cool project 

Jason

Thanks much!

I thought 904's were only for bigblocks?

Nope...all big blocks had 727. Small blocks had 904's... except performance models they had a small block 727 trans. Your 318 car more than likely has a 904.

Jason

[69bronzeT5]

Welcome to the site! I'm 16. Looking forward to seeing more of your project

[RD]

nice starting point, i see your 73 SE has the same pivotal rust points as mine thanks to the vinyl roof.  good luck!!!

[Nacho-RT74]

quickest way to tell is look at the passenger side of the fluid pan, if it buldges out its a 727, if not its a 904.
BTW....cool project  

Jason

Thanks much!

I thought 904's were only for bigblocks?

not, likely opposite LOL... as stated...

welcome and you can count on lot of ppl to help

[BROCK]

Eastwood does sell a really good kit for restoring
a gastank that has no holes in it.  I don't think
your gastank will prove usable - but, to be sure,
you can remove it & clean it up with scalding hot
soapy water on the inside & out.  Then you'll know!

New gastanks are pretty reasonable!!

[SG1022]

Eastwood does sell a really good kit for restoring
a gastank that has no holes in it.  I don't think
your gastank will prove usable - but, to be sure,
you can remove it & clean it up with scalding hot
soapy water on the inside & out.  Then you'll know!

New gastanks are pretty reasonable!!

What does their kit include, and do you have a link?

How would you guys suggest I buy hoses and wiring? Are there kits that aren't over priced? Are there any recommended kits?

[TUFCAT]

WELCOME!

It's always cool to see more young guys coming aboard interested in old Mopars.  I wish this forum was invented 25 years when we were kids - unfortunately we had to make our own mistakes.

Good news:

You're doing the right thing by asking questions. This is the best place to learn about the hobby and get more acquainted with your car. You'll find our members very eager to help you acquire the knowledge needed to rebuild it.

Bad news:

This hobby isn't for the faint of heart. Projects like yours require enormous time and money commitments.  Take inventory of your car, and make a decision of the best course of action. No offense, but unless this car represents a significant sentimental value to you its a parts car. Lot's of cars in worse shape have been brought back from the dead, but 1973 318 Chargers can be owned for a lot less than a "decent" restoration would cost on this one.

[SG1022]

WELCOME!

Good news:

You're doing the right thing by asking questions. This is the best place to learn about the hobby and get more acquainted with your car. You'll find our members very eager to help you acquire the knowledge needed to rebuild it.

Bad news:

This hobby isn't for the faint of heart. Projects like yours require enormous time and money commitments.  Take inventory of your car, and make a decision of the best course of action. No offense, but unless this car represents a significant sentimental value to you its a parts car. Lot's of cars in worse shape have been brought back from the dead, but 1973 318 Chargers can be owned for a lot less than a "decent" restoration would cost on this one.

Well, that was sobering.  I plan on putting all my time and resources into.  At the moment I am focusing on getting it running. 

I believe that the car is better than it looks in the pictures, since I was taking pictures to point out the worse parts of the car.  The body is straight and everything lines up.

The rust under the old vinyl is bad though.

[TUFCAT]

I didn't mean to pee in your pool dude, really!!     I only wish you the best, and no discouragment intended.

[SG1022]

I didn't mean to pee in your pool dude, really!!     I only wish you the best, and no discouragment intended.

No hard feelings!

It will be tough to do on my budget.

[FLG]

Welcome!!

I agree with TUFF but the rest of the car does look decent. Lower quarters look shot but the rest of the body seems OK

Hows the floors/frame??

I know how you feel with budget, Im 20 got my charger 2 years ago, before it i had a ford i put alot into and wound up getting rid of it because it simply wasnt worth it.

Honestly just to get that car in driver shape your looking at a couple grand (depending on how much you do yourself).

No discouragement, but be prepared. This hobby aint cheap.

[SG1022]

Welcome!!

I agree with TUFF but the rest of the car does look decent. Lower quarters look shot but the rest of the body seems OK

Hows the floors/frame??

I know how you feel with budget, Im 20 got my charger 2 years ago, before it i had a ford i put alot into and wound up getting rid of it because it simply wasnt worth it.

Honestly just to get that car in driver shape your looking at a couple grand (depending on how much you do yourself).

No discouragement, but be prepared. This hobby aint cheap.

Yep, I am hoping that by using my uncles shop(and his materials, the raw metal he has layin around), and by doing as much as I possibly can myself I can save some cash.

I'm not going for show quality right now

[Nacho-RT74]

my advice is, if your car is not a need for a driver, make everything ONCE. Think on the best project you can get or you think to get, but spend just once.

for example, having an engine you don't need another engine, get the money on the one you already have and make it as your wish, with performance added if you want. You can get good juice from a 318, close to 300 HP without LOTS of mods and adds ( they are not anchor boats as lot of ppl thinks, they are very reliable engines ), and get dual exhaust for it. Headers if you want. Add mild performance on to an engine will cost allmost the same than a stock rebuilt.

If you think on buckets instead bench, then don't spend fixing the bench cover, go once to buckets and everything related, floor shift and console if you want, even they were available column shifter and buckets with and without buddy seat.

Don't go with a cheap dash cap, go once with dash pad rebuild service. Will cost about 4 times more but you'll be 10 times more satisfied.

etc...

but think on what you have in mind and what are the funds for it ( actually and expected ). Take your time but make it ONCE. If you make something like a first step, try to make it easier to go on to next level. Make your first step is valuable to meet the next one.

As stated this is not a cheap hobby, even less on Mopars, but funny and getting satisfaction when making it right

[Charger440RDN]

Have you pulled back the carpet and checked the floor pans to see if they are rotted? If the floor pan is rotted out and the frame rails it would be better to find another car. These 3rd gen chargers are selling dirt cheap on craigslist right now in running driving condition. As an example here is one in the Chicago area

http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/cto/1403780892.html

And a 74 SE in Los Angeles

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/1403180511.html

Of course these cars may have their own issues too, but you have a lot of options out there with a down economy. Good luck.

[NHCharger]

Welcome to the site. 
Over the years I have become a realist. Before you dump a pile of money and time into this project take the time to go through the car and figure out how much it will cost you to get it to where you want it. Then Double that amount and that's about what it will cost. Trust me on this one, I've been there.

[BROCK]

I could give you a link to the Eastwood kit - but, hey man, you're online
Just Google Eastwood.com & have fun looking through the whole catalogue
I get so many ideas not of what to buy; but, of what if I tried this instead when looking
through catalogues like this & tool catalogues too

I gotta agree with TufCat, though.  Man, you know you have holes all the way through
your A pillars & C pillars.  That's tough sergury there.  You also have, I'm willing to bet,
holes in your dutchman panel right below your back glass, holes in your trunk floor &
holes in your front floorboards.  Be sure to check your frame sections too.

Best advise I've ever heard is this:  Start with a SOLID car.  It's a safety thing. 
So, be sure to inspect the entire car - pull the interior, clean out the trunk & have a
good look.  Write down what you see & circle the little spots with a marker.

You have your mind made up & your vision is sweet:  Just make sure you end up with
a structurally SOLID car

[SG1022]

my advice is, if your car is not a need for a driver, make everything ONCE. Think on the best project you can get or you think to get, but spend just once.

for example, having an engine you don't need another engine, get the money on the one you already have and make it as your wish, with performance added if you want. You can get good juice from a 318, close to 300 HP without LOTS of mods and adds ( they are not anchor boats as lot of ppl thinks, they are very reliable engines ), and get dual exhaust for it. Headers if you want. Add mild performance on to an engine will cost allmost the same than a stock rebuilt.

If you think on buckets instead bench, then don't spend fixing the bench cover, go once to buckets and everything related, floor shift and console if you want, even they were available column shifter and buckets with and without buddy seat.

Don't go with a cheap dash cap, go once with dash pad rebuild service. Will cost about 4 times more but you'll be 10 times more satisfied.

etc...

but think on what you have in mind and what are the funds for it ( actually and expected ). Take your time but make it ONCE. If you make something like a first step, try to make it easier to go on to next level. Make your first step is valuable to meet the next one.

As stated this is not a cheap hobby, even less on Mopars, but funny and getting satisfaction when making it right

Yeah, I hear ya. I don't like doing things half ass.   This car is needed for a driver though, but on the other hand I don't car what it looks like as long as it is structurally sound, and safe to drive.  So I will be taking my time on it, so small cosmetic things can wait.

Have you pulled back the carpet and checked the floor pans to see if they are rotted? If the floor pan is rotted out and the frame rails it would be better to find another car. These 3rd gen chargers are selling dirt cheap on craigslist right now in running driving condition. As an example here is one in the Chicago area

http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/cto/1403780892.html

And a 74 SE in Los Angeles

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/1403180511.html

Of course these cars may have their own issues too, but you have a lot of options out there with a down economy. Good luck.

I have not yet. I just got off work so I will be working on it this weekend.

Welcome to the site.  cheers cheers
Over the years I have become a realist. Before you dump a pile of money and time into this project take the time to go through the car and figure out how much it will cost you to get it to where you want it. Then Double that amount and that's about what it will cost. Trust me on this one, I've been there.

Yes, I am a realist too(sometimes it's a curse), but I also believe there are ways to save money with out cutting corners.  I do know though that I will be putting many more times the cars cost into it(1,250).

could give you a link to the Eastwood kit - but, hey man, you're online shruggy
Just Google Eastwood.com & have fun looking through the whole catalogue 2thumbs
I get so many ideas not of what to buy; but, of what if I tried this instead when looking
through catalogues like this & tool catalogues too coolgleamA

I gotta agree with TufCat, though.  Man, you know you have holes all the way through
your A pillars & C pillars.  That's tough sergury there.  You also have, I'm willing to bet,
holes in your dutchman panel right below your back glass, holes in your trunk floor &
holes in your front floorboards.  Be sure to check your frame sections too.

Best advise I've ever heard is this:  Start with a SOLID car.  It's a safety thing.
So, be sure to inspect the entire car - pull the interior, clean out the trunk & have a
good look.  Write down what you see & circle the little spots with a marker.

You have your mind made up & your vision is sweet:  Just make sure you end up with
a structurally SOLID car popcrn

I checked out eastwood, but I was posting from my phone... kind of a pain in the ass to do too much site navigation on a phone.

Also, I love your 73SE   

I want mine to eventually be black with white interior.

[SG1022]

Does anyone have some recommended steps?

I am trying to get mine together. . .

it sort of feels like impending doom

[Charger440RDN]

I would start with the easiest thing first and that would be taking the interior out, seats, carpet etc. so you can look at the condition of the floors. Leave the dashboard alone for now though  

MAKE SURE you label all scews or parts, put them in zip lock bags 

[SG1022]

I would start with the easiest thing first and that would be taking the interior out, seats, carpet etc. so you can look at the condition of the floors. Leave the dashboard alone for now though 

That's what I was thinking. Better get a section of the garage cleared out for my parts.

I was browsing craigslist and did find these

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/1400683875.html

he says that will fit my car, but my seats don't have that metal.. pin? in the middle on the back part of the seats

[Charger440RDN]

It all depends on if you want the car to have correct charger parts, if so this seat won't look right but you could always get it recovered.

[SG1022]

It all depends on if you want the car to have correct charger parts, if so this seat won't look right but you could always get it recovered.

That's the thing, I want it solid white, and since I would get those recovered anyways might as well use mine.  What is that metal piece for? just decoration?

[Charger440RDN]

yeah those metal inserts are just for decoration. Also you may want to check but I think you may have to go underneath the car to unbolt the seats 4 bolts for each seat, that's how the 68-70 charger seats are, but yours could be different.

[SG1022]

yeah those metal inserts are just for decoration. Also you may want to check but I think you may have to go underneath the car to unbolt the seats 4 bolts for each seat, that's how the 68-70 charger seats are, but yours could be different.

that should be fun with no stands or lifts!!

[FLG]

yeah those metal inserts are just for decoration. Also you may want to check but I think you may have to go underneath the car to unbolt the seats 4 bolts for each seat, that's how the 68-70 charger seats are, but yours could be different.

that should be fun with no stands or lifts!!

Did mine on the floor. If your a skinny guy you should be fine, but looks like you have small rims/tires so might be a little tight. Make sure you get a good set of jack stands. NEVER go under a vehicle with just the jack. If your changing a tire always stuff it under the car until you get the other one on. Dont get those small jack stands with the tiny foot print. Spend the money and get the big guys...always need to be save under these 4,000 pound vehicles.

[SG1022]

yeah those metal inserts are just for decoration. Also you may want to check but I think you may have to go underneath the car to unbolt the seats 4 bolts for each seat, that's how the 68-70 charger seats are, but yours could be different.

that should be fun with no stands or lifts!!

Did mine on the floor. If your a skinny guy you should be fine, but looks like you have small rims/tires so might be a little tight. Make sure you get a good set of jack stands. NEVER go under a vehicle with just the jack. If your changing a tire always stuff it under the car until you get the other one on. Dont get those small jack stands with the tiny foot print. Spend the money and get the big guys...always need to be save under these 4,000 pound vehicles.

I am 6 foot and 210 lbs, the back of the car only has 4.5 inches of clearance, don't think I am gonna make it  .  I will probably end up making some

[FLG]

Yep guess that answers that question. Im 6ft and 155, i can usually get just about anywhere under it without a jack 

[SG1022]

Yep guess that answers that question. Im 6ft and 155, i can usually get just about anywhere under it without a jack 

haha, lucky you


Now, what exactly is that material used as trim between the chrome and body? The rubber stuff... it is dried and shrunk, are there kits I can buy to replace it?

[NHCharger]

I guess tools will be another item to add to your must buy list. Nice thing about our Charger's is there are no metric nuts and bolts on them. A decent jack and a set of jack stands is a must for working on a car. I will not get under a car if it is only supported by a jack.
As mentioned above remove the seats, rug, headliner and interior trim to inspect for rust. An easy way to look for rust holes is once you remove the rug, trunk mat and gas tank wait until it's dark and stick a light inside the car and then get underneath the car. I did this after I bought my 72 Charger and the trunk floor looked like the milky way galaxy.

[SG1022]

I guess tools will be another item to add to your must buy list. Nice thing about our Charger's is there are no metric nuts and bolts on them. A decent jack and a set of jack stands is a must for working on a car. I will not get under a car if it is only supported by a jack.
As mentioned above remove the seats, rug, headliner and interior trim to inspect for rust. An easy way to look for rust holes is once you remove the rug, trunk mat and gas tank wait until it's dark and stick a light inside the car and then get underneath the car. I did this after I bought my 72 Charger and the trunk floor looked like the milky way galaxy.

Milky Way Galaxy, at least it made a cool picture eh? 


On a side note, my oil dipstick , and the oil smells like gas... but definitely has oil properties

[FLG]

If the rings are a little worn sometimes the oil will get some gas washed into it from the cylinders. Also could be a broken fuel pump spraying oil into the engine.

[Charger440RDN]

Any progress made on the interior yet? 

[SG1022]

Any progress made on the interior yet? 

Not yet, had to work, and now I am trying to make room in the garage.

I did have a battery hooked up, and the brake light lit up, but nothing else...

Me and my uncle tried turning the motor and it wouldn't budge, we think it might be frozen.  I was looking at other engines, and what is the difference between a short and long block 318?  Will a 340 drop in and work?

[Charger440RDN]

If you have to rebuild the 318 you might as well go with a 440 engine. REAL muscle. Here is one on craigslist from 1967 which is before they dropped the compression ratio in the early 70's. I'm not sure about the 727 transmission fitting in your car though, you could ask him if he would separate it doesn't fit. Only $700, it's in Oregon and it runs  

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/1407397243.html

[SG1022]

If you have to rebuild the 318 you might as well go with a 440 engine. REAL muscle. Here is one on craigslist from 1967 which is before they dropped the compression ratio in the early 70's. I'm not sure about the 727 transmission fitting in your car though, you could ask him if he would separate it doesn't fit. Only $700, it's in Oregon and it runs  

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/1407397243.html

Yeah, I wanted another small block since they are generally cheaper, and would be easier to get running.

I did call a local shop an they have a few 360s

[Charger440RDN]

If you have to rebuild the 318 you might as well go with a 440 engine. REAL muscle. Here is one on craigslist from 1967 which is before they dropped the compression ratio in the early 70's. I'm not sure about the 727 transmission fitting in your car though, you could ask him if he would separate it doesn't fit. Only $700, it's in Oregon and it runs  

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/1407397243.html

Yeah, I wanted another small block since they are generally cheaper, and would be easier to get running.

I did call a local shop an they have a few 360s

Keep looking, i've seen several cheap, running 440 motors on craigslist like this one for less than $400 lately

[SG1022]

If you have to rebuild the 318 you might as well go with a 440 engine. REAL muscle. Here is one on craigslist from 1967 which is before they dropped the compression ratio in the early 70's. I'm not sure about the 727 transmission fitting in your car though, you could ask him if he would separate it doesn't fit. Only $700, it's in Oregon and it runs  

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/1407397243.html

Yeah, I wanted another small block since they are generally cheaper, and would be easier to get running.

I did call a local shop an they have a few 360s

Keep looking, i've seen several cheap, running 440 motors on craigslist like this one for less than $400 lately

Yeah, a 440 conversion does sound appealing actually.


Well I just got off the phone with my grandma, and she will be getting surgery and won't be able to get around for 3 months.... So I will be working for 6 days a week at our store, between work during the day and school during the night I won't have time to work on my car.

I think I am going to haul it to my uncles shop so it stays nice and dry until January when I can start on it again.

[Nacho-RT74]

Now, what exactly is that material used as trim between the chrome and body? The rubber stuff... it is dried and shrunk, are there kits I can buy to replace it?

Thst is our BIG HEADACHE to all 73/74 owners... OUR HEADACHE is a chronical disease called BUMPER FILLERS. Thats what a federal requirement for small collisions to keep the body a little bit more protected from that made, getting a little bigger gap than earliers between bumper and body. Once the gap was made, then a rubber ( yes they are rubber ) was fit to fill the gap. Thats it was in all brands and models.

No repro yet, sorry. Just QUIETE OFTEN appears somebody selling one repro I think "home made" of the center front bumper filler ( the first comes heavily damaged ) that looks a good option. I think rmemeber is on $150-180 rate.

There was some attemps to make repros of those some time ago, but still waiting wishing and hoping.

What has been made in all these years is remove fronts and get the bumper closer to body once holes on frame rail brackets are enlarged.

On rear the only solution is get 71/72 bumper brackets.

[Smokey Bear]

That would be a beautiful car if restored, and a reasonably ambitious project for a newbie without much resources, however I bought my first 318 powered Charger before I could drive, and it didnt run either. All my dad knew how to do was brake pads and oil changes. Now I've been rebuilding whole cars for almost 30 years. You learn it a little at a time and keep building on it. So get on it!

My advice:
1. Buy a reproduction shop manual (if available) or find an original. It will be worth waaaay more to you than what you pay for it.
2. Join a car club in the area and see if you can get hooked up with some people who can lend advice, and better yet a hand. There are a lot of older guys who want to see younger guys succeed with these cars.
3. Be realistic about time and money. You can do things right, but inexpensively if you have time and are willing to learn, but you can't do it for nothing. This car is going to suck up a lot of your time just to get it roadworthy, let alone complete. 

A few other questions that I don't think have been answered:

1. If the car has been in an unheated barn for 25-30 years and wont turn, the piston rings are likely rusted to the cylinder walls. If you lived in the desert this might not be the case. If you douse the cylinders with penetrating oil for awhile you might be able to free them. Probably not, and if you can free them, the cylinders will be scarred. It would likely still be drivable, but it won't be a peach.
2. How many miles are on it? Most cars don't get parked in the barn because they run great. You can probably expect that there are some unknown problems. 318's are great motors and will go for a long time even with bad rings rings and low oil pressure. In the day, many got parked when the timing chain finally gets so sloppy it skips a few teeth. I picked up a bunch of cheap/free Mopars and put them on the road for the cost of a timing chain set and 4 hours of labor. 
3. That long in a barn is also going to be hell on the brakes. I'm suprised it rolls. You are going to need to go through the system to have safe brakes, probably including master cylinder and slave cylinder work.
4. The gas tank will be bad as mentioned. You can hook a rubber line up to a plastic can for now to get it running.
5. Crank windows and regular locks are fairly simple systems, though they are obscured by the inner door sheet metal. If you take your door panels off you should be able to figure out the windows and locks if you have mechanical sense. Here's where a shop manual comes in handy.
6. You don't need a donor car if you can make friends with a welder and some sheet metal. Anything can be made, but the roof is definitely something you want repaired with strength. The A-pillars (windshield area) are critical to uni-body strength and need to be fixed correctly.

Good luck.

[Smokey Bear]

I had to go back and look at those pics again because something seemed different.....and was really bugging me......

Your SE is a total odd-ball, which is really cool. With the combination of a 318, column shift vinyl bench seat, the cheapest outside mirror option, no air conditioning, manual door locks and windows, no rear defog, and not even the inside hood release. It's like somebody paid for an SE Charger and all they got was the emblem and a lighting package (evidenced by the fender-mounted turn signal lights). Where's all the premium stuff you would expect on to find on an SE Charger?! Maybe I'm jaded because I get off on odd combination like this, but I really like your car    

I'm imagining a prospective Charger SE buyer back in 1973 being shown this car on the dealer lot and finding the /6 WL Charger sitting next to it having more options. WTF?!!  

It does look very stock and unmolested under all that dirt, and that's generally a good thing.  I hope are able to bring it back to life over time.

[SG1022]

Now, what exactly is that material used as trim between the chrome and body? The rubber stuff... it is dried and shrunk, are there kits I can buy to replace it?

Thst is our BIG HEADACHE to all 73/74 owners... OUR HEADACHE is a chronical disease called BUMPER FILLERS. Thats what a federal requirement for small collisions to keep the body a little bit more protected from that made, getting a little bigger gap than earliers between bumper and body. Once the gap was made, then a rubber ( yes they are rubber ) was fit to fill the gap. Thats it was in all brands and models.

No repro yet, sorry. Just QUIETE OFTEN appears somebody selling one repro I think "home made" of the center front bumper filler ( the first comes heavily damaged ) that looks a good option. I think rmemeber is on $150-180 rate.

There was some attemps to make repros of those some time ago, but still waiting wishing and hoping.

What has been made in all these years is remove fronts and get the bumper closer to body once holes on frame rail brackets are enlarged.

On rear the only solution is get 71/72 bumper brackets.

So, when I get the 71/72 brackets will it close the gap when I bolt it on? or will I need new bumpers also?

That would be a beautiful car if restored, and a reasonably ambitious project for a newbie without much resources, however I bought my first 318 powered Charger before I could drive, and it didnt run either. All my dad knew how to do was brake pads and oil changes. Now I've been rebuilding whole cars for almost 30 years. You learn it a little at a time and keep building on it. So get on it!

My advice:
1. Buy a reproduction shop manual (if available) or find an original. It will be worth waaaay more to you than what you pay for it.
2. Join a car club in the area and see if you can get hooked up with some people who can lend advice, and better yet a hand. There are a lot of older guys who want to see younger guys succeed with these cars.
3. Be realistic about time and money. You can do things right, but inexpensively if you have time and are willing to learn, but you can't do it for nothing. This car is going to suck up a lot of your time just to get it roadworthy, let alone complete.

A few other questions that I don't think have been answered:

1. If the car has been in an unheated barn for 25-30 years and wont turn, the piston rings are likely rusted to the cylinder walls. If you lived in the desert this might not be the case. If you douse the cylinders with penetrating oil for awhile you might be able to free them. Probably not, and if you can free them, the cylinders will be scarred. It would likely still be drivable, but it won't be a peach.
2. How many miles are on it? Most cars don't get parked in the barn because they run great. You can probably expect that there are some unknown problems. 318's are great motors and will go for a long time even with bad rings rings and low oil pressure. In the day, many got parked when the timing chain finally gets so sloppy it skips a few teeth. I picked up a bunch of cheap/free Mopars and put them on the road for the cost of a timing chain set and 4 hours of labor.
3. That long in a barn is also going to be hell on the brakes. I'm suprised it rolls. You are going to need to go through the system to have safe brakes, probably including master cylinder and slave cylinder work.
4. The gas tank will be bad as mentioned. You can hook a rubber line up to a plastic can for now to get it running.
5. Crank windows and regular locks are fairly simple systems, though they are obscured by the inner door sheet metal. If you take your door panels off you should be able to figure out the windows and locks if you have mechanical sense. Here's where a shop manual comes in handy.
6. You don't need a donor car if you can make friends with a welder and some sheet metal. Anything can be made, but the roof is definitely something you want repaired with strength. The A-pillars (windshield area) are critical to uni-body strength and need to be fixed correctly.

Good luck.

I have been looking for a chiltons, but haven't been able to find one other than generic engine manuals.

I am also looking for a club to join, any recommendations on a club that has local chapters around the states(PDX oregon)?

I had to go back and look at those pics again because something seemed different.....and was really bugging me......

Your SE is a total odd-ball, which is really cool. With the combination of a 318, column shift vinyl bench seat, the cheapest outside mirror option, no air conditioning, manual door locks and windows, no rear defog, and not even the inside hood release. It's like somebody paid for an SE Charger and all they got was the emblem and a lighting package (evidenced by the fender-mounted turn signal lights). Where's all the premium stuff you would expect on to find on an SE Charger?! Maybe I'm jaded because I get off on odd combination like this, but I really like your car  2thumbs  

I'm imagining a prospective Charger SE buyer back in 1973 being shown this car on the dealer lot and finding the /6 WL Charger sitting next to it having more options. WTF?!!  lol

It does look very stock and unmolested under all that dirt, and that's generally a good thing.  I hope are able to bring it back to life over time.

Hey, but the emblem sure is a nice one!!  

Even I found it a bit weird.




New Questions
-If I do go with a 440/727 , what other changes will I need to make other then mounts/brackets?  I.E. my cousin wanted a lift kit on his jeep.  We put it on , then the wheels looked funny with  a bigger lift, so we had to buy bigger wheels and tires.  Once we had that on we had some legality issues with under sized mud flares, so we had to replace those.  So what should I be looking for?will it snowball into a HUGE conversion?

-Although I am not going to be able to do any serious resto work , I am going to be buying the parts and putting together parts/to do lists.  The first thing I wanted to do was rewire the car, redo all the lines, fuel etc, and replace the gas tank/ interior dash among other things. Keep in mind that if I do(and I am pretty set on this) get a 440/727 for my car it will be a combo pulled from a car that runs with in a week of me buying it, so we can assume that the engine is working.

Wiring-painless performance 12 circuit wiring harness. I like this product because it seems like as simple an installation as one can get, an some new friends of mine who happen to own multiple self-restored mopars(their son is also a proffesional restorer) said it is a great product.  Any opinions on it? it is pretty spendy

Fuel lines/hoses-How does one usually go about doing this? pulling their old line and finding an aftermarket line that will fit online or at an auto parts store? Is there some kind of total line replacement I can buy for my car similar to the painless performance wiring harness for the electrics?

parts I haven't found, and or need help finding a reliable quality manufacturer that will fit my 1973 SE(assuming it has a 440 and  a727 in it)
-Gas tank
-Air filter
-Carb
-Exhaust system
-battery
-gas filters
-oil filter
-spark plugs
-replacement dash, with pad. Is this the best way to go?

I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask people who had direct experience with mopar , and mopar restorations... instead of asking my local napa employee.

[Charger440RDN]

Great choice of engine and tranny Might as well build it once and go all out, you won't be dissapointed with the 440. 

[SG1022]

Great choice of engine and tranny Might as well build it once and go all out, you won't be dissapointed with the 440. 

Thanks!

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/1414272016.html

looks pretty good 

[Charger440RDN]

That engine does look good Good price on that combo too!! Clean it up and drop it in 

Here is a little motivation

[SG1022]

That engine does look good Good price on that combo too!! Clean it up and drop it in  

Here is a little motivation

And that is motivation enough!!

Now.. to clean it up and what paint to use...

[SG1022]

Hmm, kinda leaning towards this one now

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/1417582646.html


earlier block, with forged instead of cast crank. Also, 200 dollars off!

[Nacho-RT74]

So, when I get the 71/72 brackets will it close the gap when I bolt it on? or will I need new bumpers also?

Just the brackets, no need for the bumper, however couple of holes for the corner fillers studs on top of bumper COULD IT BE slightly visible once mounted. You can fill them up with small chromed bolts like the bumper ones if too much visible to your taste, or also change the bumper... it's all up to you

[SG1022]

Just Found these on CL

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/1440873350.html

Will those bolt on to my stock 73 ?

What problems will I run into?

[Rayzor]

There is a fair 74 charger sitting in the junkyard down in springfield. Interior is decent but black. Car has a 400 BB in it. Might be a source for parts for ya. Its at springfield auto wreckers. By the way, welcome to the board.

[SG1022]

There is a fair 74 charger sitting in the junkyard down in springfield. Interior is decent but black. Car has a 400 BB in it. Might be a source for parts for ya. Its at springfield auto wreckers. By the way, welcome to the board.

Hey, Thanks much! I will have to look into that. Are you affiliated with them, or know them well?

[Rayzor]

Nope, have only bought parts there before. I have a 68 that I been working on past few years on a .00 budget so I thought the info might help someone starting out. I live down near albany and have a few Charger buddies in the area so we all kinda network on parts etc. in the area. Unless we are busy searching for 22 shells to feed the 10/22.

[SG1022]

Nope, have only bought parts there before. I have a 68 that I been working on past few years on a .00 budget so I thought the info might help someone starting out. I live down near albany and have a few Charger buddies in the area so we all kinda network on parts etc. in the area. Unless we are busy searching for 22 shells to feed the 10/22.

Called them today and they are going to send me some pictures     Thanks for the heads up!

Anychance you guys will drive any of your chargers to the albany swap meet ont he 14th? Last one of the year.

I recently got a few bricks of Aguila bulk for 20$ a brick(about 10-15$ off)   At the Canby Gunshow, need anything for your 10/22?

[Rayzor]

My buddies 74 has the motor out etc. while we paint it and my 68 is waiting on a new driveshaft and disc brakes so no drive time for us. As far as 10/22 goes, I scored some new Rem GB,s the other day so I am good there. I think I have done every mod you can think of and still kept the factory carbine look. I just did the bolt radius the other day and it was worth it. Never can tell when zombies may try and steal the charger and I dont wanna lose it for lack of not shootin back!  

[SG1022]

My buddies 74 has the motor out etc. while we paint it and my 68 is waiting on a new driveshaft and disc brakes so no drive time for us. As far as 10/22 goes, I scored some new Rem GB,s the other day so I am good there. I think I have done every mod you can think of and still kept the factory carbine look. I just did the bolt radius the other day and it was worth it. Never can tell when zombies may try and steal the charger and I dont wanna lose it for lack of not shootin back!  

You feed your baby golden bullets!!! 

If you haven't gotten your bolt/reciever jeweled I will do it for free for ya as soon as I get my new brushes.

[Rayzor]

The GB's group really well for me and no issues. I cant get it to eat feds for nothing though. Thanks for the offer on the jeweling. I have already planned on doing it just need to repolish it first. But Ihave all winter to get fat and play with the toys. I have not had the charger going in almost 6 years so its getting my time this winter. Just bought a new radiator today. My car started out as a slant six, and now has a 440 in its place. If you go the big block route, do yourself a favor. Draw up a budget and time frame. Then triple it just before you throw that out the window.

[SG1022]

The GB's group really well for me and no issues. I cant get it to eat feds for nothing though. Thanks for the offer on the jeweling. I have already planned on doing it just need to repolish it first. But Ihave all winter to get fat and play with the toys. I have not had the charger going in almost 6 years so its getting my time this winter. Just bought a new radiator today. My car started out as a slant six, and now has a 440 in its place. If you go the big block route, do yourself a favor. Draw up a budget and time frame. Then triple it just before you throw that out the window.

You know what, I have actually heard some good things about the VERY recent lots of GBs.  Me personally if I am shooting bulk I like to shoot aguila or federal.  Don't want to put GB in my 1,400 dollar .2-You probably don't want to put gas into your charger from a 50 year old can you found in your dads barn or something.

Although, I did grow up shooting rem GBs and lightnings out of my single shot bolt action    , it's just a few years ago I bought a few bricks and ended up getting 4-5 out FTFs out of my 25 round magazine in a perfectly tuned .22.  I looked at one and it was completley missing the primer 
Let me know if you want some custom finishing jobs.  Hopefully I can use my rifle finishing skills on some car pieces !

[71_Charger_R/T]

Hey, Welcome to the site! Nice to see you wanting to bring another 3rd generation Charger back from the brink. Here's some good reading to give you a little inspiration to keep going if you get discouraged. These kids started out with very little knowledge and a lot of zeal and have proven many "Nay Sayers" wrong on the budget aspect of their project, although they admit they missed the mark on their schedule. They have learned a ton of stuff on their journey to restore this car and have become quite skilled at it if I might say so!  
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=3637595&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
Again...Welcome, and don't hesitate to ask about anything you don't know about, There's a ton of knowledge and experience these guys and gals possess.

[SG1022]

Hey, Welcome to the site! Nice to see you wanting to bring another 3rd generation Charger back from the brink. Here's some good reading to give you a little inspiration to keep going if you get discouraged. These kids started out with very little knowledge and a lot of zeal and have proven many "Nay Sayers" wrong on the budget aspect of their project, although they admit they missed the mark on their schedule. They have learned a ton of stuff on their journey to restore this car and have become quite skilled at it if I might say so!  
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=3637595&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
Again...Welcome, and don't hesitate to ask about anything you don't know about, There's a ton of knowledge and experience these guys and gals possess.

Thanks alot for the inspirational words 

I am on page 3, and am thoroughly enjoying this thread.  Looks like I will have to register there.


Looking through their thread, looks like they have a great shop, and some great tools to work with! What I wouldn't give to have acess to those . Also looke like they have alot more knowlege than me, time to hit the books!

I am going tomorrow to pick up some tools from my grandpa that he says he won't be needing anymore(Former Mopar Mechanic) , 1.6 million miles on his diesel ram, with only one engine swap at 600k    I can't believe they got that donor car for 300     I know people who pay over 300 for sheet metal!

[Rayzor]

Yea the GB's dont have the best rep. But in the past 4-5 thousand rounds I have not had one issue with them in the 10/22. My marlin will not even look at them. But I have taken so manny coyote and several bobcat that I just shoot what I know what works for me. Hey thats nice gun work, I would be afraid to drag that threw the brush, it would be like taken a charger 4 wheeling.