Anybody know about REDBORE master cylinders?

[RECHRGD]

Just Suspension advertises them, but I can't find anything about them on their website.  I've done the SSB manual front disc conversion and this looks like it may be the ticket for not having to apply so much pedal pressure to haul the car to a quick stop.  Thanks, Bob

[tan top]

not seen it done !! , but  when the bore is very  corroded , its  bored out  over size & a stainless sleeve fitted & honed to size   lot of messing about  i think , but think its mainly done for  original date coded ones .........

[RECHRGD]

not seen it done !! , but  when the bore is very  corroded , its  bored out  over size & a stainless sleeve fitted & honed to size   lot of messing about  i think , but think its mainly done for  original date coded ones .........

Tan Top,  what I'm talking about is a NEW master cylinder that is marketed by Just Suspensions and claims to give your manual system the power of a modern power assisted system.  I would like to know how they accomplish that, if they in fact do.  Thanks, Bob

[tan top]

oppss Doh Sorry Bob !!!!      thought you said rebore ,  just waiting for my bus  .......

[RECHRGD]

 

[68 RT]

The bore is oversized with a bigger piston intalled.

[RECHRGD]

Well there was finally an article in Mopar Muscle about this.  I'm going to give it a try and I just ordered it.  It utilizes a smaller bore (7/8").  It should be here in 5 days.  I'll let you guys know about it after I get it installed.   Bob

[Long Island RT]

Looks just like this one - which is what I have.  I haven't had a chance to use mine yet.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-8555P/
Remember... smaller bore = more pressure.  If you have the skock calipers, they may need more fluid to flow through them to work properly and a smaller bore will "bottom" out too early.  Willwood makes them at many different bore sizes depending on the recommended application.  I too have a 7/8", but I also have willwood calipers.

Good luck.

[Mike DC]

 
When there is no additional power assist mechanism, then hydraulic manipulation is all about pedal-throw distance and foot-pressure required.  More of one means less of the other. 

[RECHRGD]

Looks just like this one - which is what I have.  I haven't had a chance to use mine yet.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-8555P/
Remember... smaller bore = more pressure.  If you have the skock calipers, they may need more fluid to flow through them to work properly and a smaller bore will "bottom" out too early.  Willwood makes them at many different bore sizes depending on the recommended application.  I too have a 7/8", but I also have willwood calipers.

Good luck.

Well, I just got done installing it and bleeding the system.  BUT, it does feel like its "bottoming out".  I told them what the application was and they said that's what it's designed for.  They're closed now, but I 'll call tomorrow.  bob

[RECHRGD]

Well, they said that it was normal and that the the movement will only go so far.  I've just never felt a definite end to the pedal movement in any car in over 40 years of driving.  I guess if I can go out and lock up the brakes then I'm good to go.  We'll see?  Bob

[Long Island RT]

I have not "officially" driven my car yet - but I can tell you that my pedal feels a bit squishy for manual brakes.  I've tried every type of bleeding possible from bench bleeding the master to gravity feeding, and even plastic hoses all the way back to the master cylinder from the bleeder screws.  I can't get my pedal to bottom out however.... and I never see any air coming out of the bleeders...?

I'm curious to learn of your solution.

If anybody has a fail proof way of bleeding brakes - let me know

[RECHRGD]

Considering the hard pedal I had with the old master, I think the "squishy" feel is a positive sign.  I just don't get the pedal stopping when I really put some panic stop type pressure on it.  Bob

[Long Island RT]

OK - so maybe I'm good too.

Let me know how your test drive goes.

[RECHRGD]

Well, the car stops but not enough pressure to the front discs.  I had a brake shop go through everything yesterday.  When bleeding the rear brakes the peddle would go to the floor and about a two foot stream of fluid would come out.  When doing the front only a small dribble of fluid would come out and the pedal would stop after a couple of inches.  I called Wilwood today and they suggested taking out the factory distribution block (with the safety switch) and just putting in a tee.  My brake guy doesn't think so.  Anybody have any experience doing this?  Thanks, Bob

[Long Island RT]

Geez - I'm using the block for the front as well - I thought it was just a tee inside.  I couldn't find a tee with the right fitting sizes.  My rears were plumbed directly but I put a proportioning valve on the line. 

I was getting full fluid flow out of the front calipers when I was bleeding - and the pedal would easily go all the way down to the floor. Do you have a proportioning valve possibly on the front line?

One thing I've learned:
50% of the time The word "Aftermarket" = "Does not work on your car"
The other 50% of the time - "Aftermarket" = "Will work on your car after you spend 50% more money to make it work"

[RECHRGD]

Well the distribution block has something in it that senses low fluid pressure for either the front or rear system and then turns on the red brake system light at the dash.  But I think they were the same for both drum brake cars and front disc cars.  Something sure is stopping the flow, but I'm not sure if what's in the block is doing it.  I'd like to try and bypass it for a test though.  Bob

[ply72rr]

Well the distribution block has something in it that senses low fluid pressure for either the front or rear system and then turns on the red brake system light at the dash.  But I think they were the same for both drum brake cars and front disc cars.  Something sure is stopping the flow, but I'm not sure if what's in the block is doing it.  I'd like to try and bypass it for a test though.  Bob

If you were getting fluid to the calipers with the original master cylinder than the distribution block isn't the problem. Either the master cylinder is not bled properly or it's defective.

[werner]

I have the red bore on 69 charger(Manual brakes).Its just a Wilwood mater cylinder. Had all the same problems you are experiencing.Will save you a kot of grief , spent 2 weeeks on the phone with Just Suspenssion. My pedal was soft, once pumped up was good. Not enough volume of fluid. You need residual pressure check valves as well even though Just Suspension says no. I ficxed mine believe it or not jsut back setting uop the brake shoe adjusters. 1.5 turns on adjusters on all 4 brakes problem fixed. Hard pedal , car stops good. The pressure check valves would help also by keepping a little pressure in the line so that the shoes are just touching the drum. The brake wheel cylinders will be held out by the check valves
Would never have believed that the little adjustment I did fixed the problem. Bleed my brakes by hand at least 10 times as well as haveing power bleed to no avail
good luck after all the problems works good now just ahev to convert to front disc to stop the 528 hemi

[Long Island RT]

I have 4 wheel discs - I don't think you need a residual valve for that.  Not sure about RECHRGD rears?

I Probably still have air somewhere......

[werner]

According to Wilwood you need residual for disc especially as well but it is a different pressure rating. Phone the Wilwood Tech line thay will help you out. Your bleeders for calipers shopuld be at the top of caliper, if at bottom sometimes very hard to get trapped air out of calipers. Good luck. please keep us updated

[Long Island RT]

Werner,

Not to hijack this thread - but I noticed you have 528 hemi with TKO 5 speed.  What gears you running?  What tire size in the Rear?
We have similar taste - Other than the hemi (read jealous)- same rad, same master, you even hid your MSD in the same spot. (coincidence?)
My car used to be yellow too.....

[RECHRGD]

According to Wilwood you need residual for disc especially as well but it is a different pressure rating. Phone the Wilwood Tech line thay will help you out. Your bleeders for calipers shopuld be at the top of caliper, if at bottom sometimes very hard to get trapped air out of calipers. Good luck. please keep us updated

I've got discs on the front and drums out back.  I call Wilwood again and see what they come up with.  Just Suspensions is no help.  Shame on them for just putting a RedBore decal on a standard Wilwood unit, then advertising it as something special and charging $100.00 more for it.   Bob

[werner]

Mine didnt even have redbore decal on it. Looks like the opicture above with red plate on top to Wilwood badging on plate.It had Wilwood cast in the housing. They even painted the lid red with paint, not powder coat. the brake fluid starting removing the paint from the lid after 2 or 3 days. Ended up striping all paint off myself.Had to weld in a small piece of plate to fill in a hole in the plate on firewall that the adapter plate does not cover.
Im running Mosier 60 with traclock and 3:73 gears.Runs strong. Great on hwy with 5th gear.
Tire size in rear is 295/45/18.

[RECHRGD]

The port for the front brakes on the stock MC is fed from the rear port.  The RedBore MC is fed from the front port.  Man, do I feel stupid.  I'll do the fix in a couple of days.  I'm sure that's the problem.  Bob