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Meet Valerie - Supercharged Riot's car - Update 12/13/2012

Started by Supercharged Riot, September 26, 2009, 12:03:09 AM

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greenpigs

Just make sure you get the correct pistons for your application.
1969 Charger RT


Living Chevy free

Cooter

Quote from: Supercharged Riot on May 13, 2012, 11:54:13 PM
Oh yeah, I made a decision about my engine.

Not too much money put into it. Just good enough to bring it back to life.
Run the hell out of it until it blows up and then find a 440 some other time.

Feedback & opinions?  I still got time to decide. Just thought I'd see what you guys say about that?
Any feedback?

Don't worry, stock rods, stock 2-bolt block, and some cast pistons with a blower, (like what looks to have been installed at last rebuild), will certainly attain your goal.

I would at least put good rods, and forged pistons in it, but understand if you have no money and are on a tight budget.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Supercharged Riot

How's it going fellas? Well I've been busy lately so I havent uploaded any pics lately.
I finished class, but I didnt finish my lower end.
That is okay though.
After my experience, I have learned a lot.
Im not afraid to work on my engine.
I just have to buy some more tools thats all
The good news is that I might have a chance to finish during Fall.
The bad news is that I was only able to get as far as boring half of my engine cylinders.
Here are some pictures:

Time to cleans the threads with the tap & die set


Making sure I get as much crud outta there as possible
I understand you really want to use bottom tap cleaning threads, but the school does not have it available for use.












Supercharged Riot

I would like to refrain from boring out the cylinders, so its time to set up the block for honing.

Had to buy and have new oversized pistons in on time before the next class session.
Anyone ever get a chance to take a glance at the quality of these forged pistons from Summit Racing?
They're okay I guess:











Also cleaned up the ol water pump:















Put the main caps back on and torque them to specs




Lets transfer the block to the honing machine


I know its not my engine block, but this is where I ended up honing my cylinders also




By the end of the day, it turned out that my cylinders had to much taper.
Teacher's recomendation: bore it out to .040 over to minimize the amount of metal to be taken off during cylinder boring.
Damn...gotta buy new pistons ASAP


Supercharged Riot

I took the time to file the top deck a little so that there's nothing on the deck that will keep the boring machine from being mounted on my engine


Used this set of dowel pin removers





I also took the time to blast my water pump housing clean




Anyways, engine block must be mounted so that the top deck is leveled in order to keep the boring machine mounted properly




Set the boring machine on the block


Use this (reverse) micrometer to guide the cutter length of the boring machine



This anchor hooks at the bottom of each cylinder
The top 3 fingers keep the anchor centered as a way to properly mount the boring machine.




Feeler gauge used to help keep the boring machineproperly centered over each cylinder


Place the boring machine on the engine block and hook it around the top of the anchor and lock it once it hooks around the anchor





Supercharged Riot

First cut and.........not enough removed from the cylinder walls. which means..............


I have to bore it out to .060 over



Supercharged Riot

Pick the proper centering fingers. Its important to know that these centering fingers allow the boring machine to adjust itself to the center of the cylinder you are cutting.





Set the stone so that it touches the cylinder walls (test at least 3 sides)
Use the feeler gauge to make sure the boring machine is completely centered.
Rotate the cutter so that you can check the feeler gauge against the cutter.
It should be touching on all sides of the cylinder walls
Actually, it should not be going through
If the feeler gauge goes through, then the machine is not completely centered.

Once you are able to determine the boring machine is completely centered, set the cutting stone to my first cutting length,  2.9000

The feeler gauge shouldnt go through the cutting stone


Once you pretty much center the boring machine, get the micrometer tool and adjust it to the first cutting length, in my case 4.290


Loosen the cutter from the rotating assembly
Stab it into the rotating cutter into the rotating assembly and adjust and lock the cutter so that it retains its cutting length (4.290)
Jab the pointed end of the micrometer into the cutting module and adjust the cutter to match the length I set for my cut
Once I lock the cutter in place, then remove it.
As you can see, this micrometer serves as a precision adjustment tool for the cutter on the boring machine




Turn the machine on and Start boring









Supercharged Riot

Once the first cut is done repeat steps and proceed with my next cuts

1st cut:  4.290"
2nd cut: 4.300"
Final cut: 4.306"
leftover for honing: (additional) 0.004"






Supercharged Riot

Time was up for finals.
I only bored half of my engine
I have to come back another time during fall.
Time to take my stuff home


Engine block is now home with the help of my buddy in class.


Here's the side I didnt get to


This side just needs honing


Poor Charger. We're getting there some day






bakerhillpins

Thanks for taking the time to post up all those shots of the bore. I haven't ever seen that work done before.  :2thumbs:

Sorry to see that you didn't get to complete the engine work this term and will have to wait until fall.
One great wife (Life is good)
14 RAM 1500 5.7 Hemi Crew Cab (crap hauler)
69 Dodge Charger R/T, Q5, C6X, V1X, V88  (Life is WAY better)
96' VFR750 (Sweet)
Capt. Lyme Vol. Fire

"Inspiration is for amateurs - the rest of us just show up and get to work." -Chuck Close
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits." -Albert Einstein
Go that way, really fast. If something gets in your way, turn.
Science flies you to the moon, Religion flies you into buildings.

Finn

1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

tan top



:yesnod:  good lot of picrures , love looking at this kind of stuff ,   :yesnod:  thanks for sharing  :cheers: :cheers:



Quote from: Finn on June 05, 2012, 02:13:40 PM


Your charger looks bitchin' man.

:yesnod:  yep agreed , that 68 looks a mean mutha  :coolgleamA: :2thumbs:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

69rtse4spd

Looks good, I would say the metal parts that got to your crank came from the front of the motor. It looks like the timing chain was rubbing the block, from the one Pict. when you tore down the motor. You can make a bottom tap out of a starter tap by grinding the point down, but you need to be carefully not to over heat the tap, grind it flat across the face, leave some taper to it (helps to get it started), & stone off the burrs. But then again you have to go buy a new starter tap then, so might as well just buy a bottom tap.
Fascinated by the old school block boring machine, may not be as fast as a newer machines, but sometimes old school rules.  :2thumbs:.

Supercharged Riot

Hey thanks for the replies guys.
I might not reply to everyone, but I certainly read all posts regarding my build.
Im shopping for parts right now  :yesnod:

My class might not be in session, but there's small stuff for me to do while the block is at home. and more Updates of course.


Supercharged Riot

If you pay attention in this picture, I am boring out .010" (ten thousandths of an inch)
This small line you see here is where the boring machine is actually making its cut  :yesnod:


AirborneSilva

Thanks for all the pictures, man that's a  bummer that you have to wait all summer  :rotz: it will give you plenty of time to do all the little things you probably want to do with the Charger but just put off...  I say that because that's what I do  :icon_smile_big:

Supercharged Riot

Yeah, The most ill be able to do is buy an electric grinder and deburr the extra slag on the block and paint the exterior of the engine. which will be fun. Im going with a non traditional look so Ill be painting my engine a different color. stay tuned  :2thumbs:

Supercharged Riot

Anybody know of some good people that does excellent body work on Mopars in southern California?
Im looking to get my underside redone
-New sub frame connectors
-Repaint
-Weld new sheet metal by the console shifter
-Re-weld my rear wheel wells

Finn

Yeah, I know a guy in Palmdale. If that's not too far he does excellent paint and body work. Also know a welder too. And I know a seperate, do it all shop that are excellent fabricators. Great guys but not the cheapest. The second two are in Santa Clarita. If your interested Ill pm you the contact info.
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

FLG

Looking good.

Not to rain on anyone's parade but i would have sonic tested the block before going .060 over  :scratchchin:

Ghoste

It looks good but yeah, a sonic test would have been good insurance too.

Supercharged Riot

I finally got a chance to disassemble my Cylinder head components.
And well.....I think my cylinder heads are done for (or at least one of them).
Here's what happened to my driver side head.









Uuughhh...I dont think that is supposed to look like that....its cracked?


See the tips of my valve guides? CRACKED!?
Can it be saved?
If not then I guess I gotta upgrade to aluminum cylinder heads  :D





















squeakfinder


   I've got a 1975 440 block in my car. It's been bored .060 over, and I just made a second 450 mile trip in it with out any problems. Just sayig, it can be done.
Still looking for 15x7 Appliance slotted mags.....