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Skim coat bondo with fill in glaze sand?

Started by Matthan, September 23, 2009, 08:34:09 AM

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Matthan

Someone told me to Skim coat bondo with fill in glaze sand on my charger can somone explain this to me? 

Silver R/T

they probably ment glazing putty. It's just to fill any pinholes you might have
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

jaak

For someone doing there own bodywork, especially if you are a noobie at it, I would recommend using a polyester primer after completing your filler work. I have a little body work experience, and I doing all my own work on my 69, and I am using it. There are several brands, Evercoat has 'Slicksand' and 'Feather Fill', Marhyde has 'Quicksand' just about every paint brand has there own version of it too.
Polyester Primer is basically Metal glaze/putty that you can spray out of a spray gun (need a big-ass tip, usually a 2.2, but can use a 2.0 if you reduce 10%). It is a thick-high build primer that will fill sandscratches and pinholes left from filler, and can even fill a small ding. Spray on a couple of coats, the apply a guide coat (I like dry guide coat) and grab the long boards and start blocking with 180.

Here is a pic after applying polyprimer on my 69...


Jason

SeattleCharger



Why would you want anything else?  Just give me a Charger and I'll be happy.

elitecustombody

Quote from: jaak on September 23, 2009, 10:58:53 AM
For someone doing there own bodywork, especially if you are a noobie at it, I would recommend using a polyester primer after completing your filler work. I have a little body work experience, and I doing all my own work on my 69, and I am using it. There are several brands, Evercoat has 'Slicksand' and 'Feather Fill', Marhyde has 'Quicksand' just about every paint brand has there own version of it too.
Polyester Primer is basically Metal glaze/putty that you can spray out of a spray gun (need a big-ass tip, usually a 2.2, but can use a 2.0 if you reduce 10%). It is a thick-high build primer that will fill sandscratches and pinholes left from filler, and can even fill a small ding. Spray on a couple of coats, the apply a guide coat (I like dry guide coat) and grab the long boards and start blocking with 180.

Here is a pic after applying polyprimer on my 69...


Jason

pretty good advice from someone who doesn't have alot of bodywork experience, I only want to say, start blocking with 120 grit instead of 180,then switch to 180,it'll make the job much easier, and Slicksand is great primer  :2thumbs:


AMD-Auto Metal Direct  Distributor, email me for all your shetmetal needs

Stefan

The70RT

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Mike DC

 
In the last decade, the line between primers and fillers is getting blurrier all the time. 


They've got new "primer" coats almost thick enough to hit with a cheese-grater.  And they've got new spray-on "filler" layers that work nearly like a primer coat.


jaak

Quote from: elitecustombody on September 28, 2009, 10:51:05 PM
Quote from: jaak on September 23, 2009, 10:58:53 AM
For someone doing there own bodywork, especially if you are a noobie at it, I would recommend using a polyester primer after completing your filler work. I have a little body work experience, and I doing all my own work on my 69, and I am using it. There are several brands, Evercoat has 'Slicksand' and 'Feather Fill', Marhyde has 'Quicksand' just about every paint brand has there own version of it too.
Polyester Primer is basically Metal glaze/putty that you can spray out of a spray gun (need a big-ass tip, usually a 2.2, but can use a 2.0 if you reduce 10%). It is a thick-high build primer that will fill sandscratches and pinholes left from filler, and can even fill a small ding. Spray on a couple of coats, the apply a guide coat (I like dry guide coat) and grab the long boards and start blocking with 180.

Here is a pic after applying polyprimer on my 69...


Jason

pretty good advice from someone who doesn't have alot of bodywork experience, I only want to say, start blocking with 120 grit instead of 180,then switch to 180,it'll make the job much easier, and Slicksand is great primer  :2thumbs:

Thanks man. Yeah before I read this reply, I was looking around on some bodyshop forums, and have decided to use a coarser paper on the poly to get everything leveled out.

Quote from: The70RT on September 28, 2009, 11:39:11 PM
Jaak is that an original quarter?

Yes. My quarters weren't real rusty at all. I had to patch a couple of spots but nothing major. (I cut my patches from a parts car). They were just covered with dents/dings, alot of straightening.

Jason