News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Car dies after it gets hot,after cool down will start???

Started by 268RTs4ME, September 18, 2009, 04:53:36 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

268RTs4ME

My 74 b body 440 thermo. starts good will run for about ten minutes then shut down,  will crank but will not start, let it cool down and will start up again..have changed control box on dash (module box) same thing, anybody got any ideas? Thanks

Ghoste

I did have an ecu fail once and the one I replaced it with was bad out of the box.  Do you have a known good one? (I don't recall it as running for ten minutes and quitting though)

elacruze

1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

BMOTOXSTAR

I have the samep roblem with my 74' Satellite. I replaced all the stuff, coil, ignition box, etc...still does the same thing. I am think it could be the carb? :shruggy:
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

elacruze

How hot does the carb get? Maybe you're heatsoaking and vapor locking the carb.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

Brock Samson

starter hint sink and vapor lock,.. i used to have both problems...

resq302

I had the same problem and it turned out to be the pick up coil inside the distributor.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

268RTs4ME

Have replaced control box, coil, and still about ten minutes just shuts off, carb will still pump gas, gonna put in pick in dist. Any other ideas????

mally69

Quote from: elacruze on September 18, 2009, 05:00:32 PM
Could be as simple as the coil.


I second this, mine just did this same thing about a month ago, i put in a new coil and i had no more trouble  :coolgleamA:

jaak

I had a similar problem in my 69----Bad ECU
Also had similar problem in my 73----Bad Coil

Jason

BMOTOXSTAR

I have done all as well, electrical, fuel, pumps fuel, not over heating.
I am going to try the pick up coil, man that thing looks like a bee-itch to take off the dist.
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

268RTs4ME

So far I have replaced coil, control box ECU, and Pickup in dist, new wires new cap, new rotor, I am beginning to think it might be carb, not fuel to carb, because when it cuts off I am still pumpin fuel when I work throttle??

Nacho-RT74

I'm quite often having starting issue when hot after sometime with car off. Need to quickly get back the key untill I feel some small backfire and then will start up.

However if car is "hot", turn off, but allmost inmediatelly turn back on, will start up right away

Some time ( very weird when that happens ) at first start up in the morning, will turn on when key is released. An not, is not ballast, because if it was ballast, the brake ligh at dash wouldn't keep on ( but dimmed ). Remember cluster and  ECU are being feeded through ballast, not directly from Blue wire like in RUN at START up moment, so if brake light at cluster keeps ON everyhing feed by ballast is being feeded the same and ballast is good.

my two suspicious parts are ECU related. One is ground at ECU, and the other is simply damaged ECU.

Another suspicious stuff is maybe coil... once got a bad dent when once my stock dist got stuck ( bad quality dist shaft bushings ) and vacuum hit the coil.

I have doubts about ground at ECU cause is not anymore loosen from firewall. Firewall holes were striped so I made a notch on firewall to fit a J nut in place of the original ECU hole. Unnoticeable from exterior, unles you notive the small gap between back of ECU and firewall.

just try to share experiences. I don't have the real solution on my or your problem
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

elacruze

Ok, let's get serious.

First find out if you still have spark when the engine quits. Use a spare plug or a screwdriver in the boot and air gap to a valve cover or something.

Next test how much fuel the pump is providing to the carb. The pump takes fuel from the lowest point so you'll squirt fuel even after you've run out at the jets. Don't assume that because you have _some_ fuel to the carb that you have enough volume or any pressure. If you don't know the history of the pump, replace it anyway as they're inexpensive.

If you have good spark and pump delivery, suspect the inlet valve/float. The valve could be plugged with debris, or the float could be stuck.

Do you have any inline fuel filters? Don't overlook the obvious. Replace them if there is any doubt.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

BMOTOXSTAR

Yeah, mine still pumps fuel after it stalls. I believe that 7lbs of pressure is cvorrect out of the stock fuel pump?
I am going to try that pick up coil.
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

268RTs4ME


mally69

Hey what is the configuration of your fuel line from the pump to the carb is there any way it could be vapor locking????  just an idea guys