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guys with custom dash's

Started by c00nhunterjoe, August 22, 2009, 08:53:35 PM

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c00nhunterjoe

to all of you with the custom dash's. i am trying to get my ducks in a row before i tear into this project. how do you get around the vaccum from the headlight switch when you do a custom dash????

Rolling_Thunder

I have seen the headlights be converted to electric (Norway Charger) -  I plan on using the old vac system but utilizing a relay to trip a vac solenoid - allowing air to pass through and then close to hold the doors open...    still in progress though
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

c00nhunterjoe

come on! anybody! i have searched for norway's topic with no success. what have you guys done with your dash lights after the conversion

chargerhunter

Linear motors to open and close the doors. This is what Norway did, I think his motors were a little "overkill" but that's kinda like having too much fun! I'll try and find the name of the company that sells everything to do it...I bought a few parts from them already.

Autoloc is the name of the company, get a catalog from them. The linear motors have different travel per say and you wouldn't want one that would rip the door off the headlight surround.. :RantExplode:
68 Charger R/T clone 440/4spd
converted to '69 General Lee

68 Charger 383/727

Rolling_Thunder

agreed...    linear actuators are what you're looking for...   with 2" of travel...   the only ones i find are EXPENSIVE
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

jar1292

WHAT! im confused im doing a costom dash in my 70' and i didnt know about no vacume! wtf please tell me the 70' didnt have this or am i juust jumping to conclusions  I thought i had enough problems and not this!!!!:brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:
Restoring a charger is like a saying I heard along time ago "I never said it would be easy, I only said it would be worth it".... Jesus I wish I could remember who said that...

jar1292

Wiat are we talking about the hidaway doors? cuz mine were opening and closing with a toggle switch under the dash the previaus wing nut before me installed
Restoring a charger is like a saying I heard along time ago "I never said it would be easy, I only said it would be worth it".... Jesus I wish I could remember who said that...

c00nhunterjoe

68-69 were vaccum operated doors, in 70 i beleive they are electric

jar1292

Restoring a charger is like a saying I heard along time ago "I never said it would be easy, I only said it would be worth it".... Jesus I wish I could remember who said that...

Blown70

Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on September 17, 2009, 07:36:05 PM
68-69 were vaccum operated doors, in 70 i beleive they are electric

They are with a some what centally located motor with shafts.....

chargerhunter

I bought one of the repop grilles and have some of the parts for vac. headlights, it will be cheaper to buy linear motors and make them work. A guy near me that built a winged car used old Honda electric headlight motors to open the doors on it. I think those would have to use a limit switch to make work on a 68-69 though..
68 Charger R/T clone 440/4spd
converted to '69 General Lee

68 Charger 383/727

TylerCharger69

Why not fabricate the switch into the custom dash itself??  I mean...using the existing switch and relocating it wherever you please....That's what I'm going to do.

dkn1997

whats with everyone being so quick to dump the vacuum headlights?  I have NEVER seen a car where they DIDNT work.. not once. not ever.  simple technology. mine are 40 years old and work like a champ.  even after being fully disassembled and put back together after my accident. 

use whatever switch you want and do what the previous poster said and get some sort of vacuum relay.  simple and cheap.
RECHRGED

Rolling_Thunder

exactly...   vac is a nice thing - the only PITA is mounting a reservoir - if the doors are hooked directly to vac without it the doors have a tendancy to close over WOT passes...    at least that is what happened to my boss's Superbird...       but the bird doors are a LOT heavier than our plastic doors...     

I plan on using the electric vac solenoids simply so i can use a different switch IF I want...      I plan on using the stock controls but Do not want vac lines running to the dash...     lets me get rid of that big firewall grommet...    I plan to remount the stock reservoir behind the grille and the vac lines will merely need to travel from the engine to the can - then to the headlight system...         - simple, effective, and cheap.        :D
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Long Island RT

As you know - I made a custom dash, but I used the stock switches by welding on some nuts to the back of my new dash.  To me it was the easiest solution.

Good luck.
1969 Dodge Charger RT Restomod<br />Triple Black, 512 stroker, Tremec TKO600 5-speed<br />2005 Dodge Magnum RT - Brilliant Black - Lowered

chargerhunter

I would need vaccum motors, lines, vaccum portion of the switch..a whole heap of parts just to make the doors work..unless that is I keep my other car. I would then have a repop grille in that car and keep all the factory stuff.
68 Charger R/T clone 440/4spd
converted to '69 General Lee

68 Charger 383/727