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timing belt change

Started by Silver R/T, September 17, 2009, 09:35:40 PM

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Silver R/T

Well my mom's car is due for timing belt change. It's 96 lexus es300 with 3.0v6. Shop wants $800 to do it (belt, tensioners, water pump). I can get kit on ebay for $100 or so (belt, tensioners, water pump/gasket)
I've never done one and this car requires for engine to be pulled out to change it out. $800 is quite a bit for us so I'm thinking of doing it myself. I think once engine is out it shouldn't be too hard as far as I can tell from reading online how-to's. I've done brakes, sensors, radiators, axles so I'm somewhat mechanically inclined. You guys think I should go for it?
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

The70RT

Quote from: Silver R/T on September 17, 2009, 09:35:40 PM
Well my mom's car is due for timing belt change. It's 96 lexus es300 with 3.0v6. Shop wants $800 to do it (belt, tensioners, water pump). I can get kit on ebay for $100 or so (belt, tensioners, water pump/gasket)
I've never done one and this car requires for engine to be pulled out to change it out. $800 is quite a bit for us so I'm thinking of doing it myself. I think once engine is out it shouldn't be too hard as far as I can tell from reading online how-to's. I've done brakes, sensors, radiators, axles so I'm somewhat mechanically inclined. You guys think I should go for it?

Check and see if your gonna need any special tools. If it has double overhead cams you may have to lock both cams in place. If you don't you will ruin the engine. If that's the case it will be plenty fun. I had a Caddilac Catera that the special tools were like 600 bucks and to rent them was 200.........I sold the car like it was.
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Silver R/T

good point, I definitely don't want to buy tools that I will only use once
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

elacruze

I have a '96 Pontiac Sunfire with the 2.4L twin cam. It needed a water pump, and the only shop in town that was willing to do the job (clue #1) gave me a price of $500 after moaning what a bastard it was. I priced the pump at NAPA and it was like $30. WTF? Heck, I'm actually a professional mechanic with lots of tools (never did this job tho (clue #2)) so I'll do it myself.

Well, 6 weeks, 8 exhaust valves and a new battery later, I was back on the road. $500 was a bargain.

Moral of the story: Buy a service manual before you start, factory if available. It's not merely good insurance, it's guaranteed to prevent some mishap or another. If you read the manual and decide not to do the job, you're a huge winner.


Well, I did get to have the head ported while it was off so it wasn't a total loss.  :shruggy:
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

TylerCharger69

I've done one....easiest way is to drop the entire engine cradle.....and there is a special tool....for the tensioner to relieve the tension....but you can improvise with basic tools   and a 1/4 inch rill bit to hold it in place.....you'll see.....

Cooter

Quote from: elacruze on September 17, 2009, 10:20:01 PM
I have a '96 Pontiac Sunfire with the 2.4L twin cam. It needed a water pump, and the only shop in town that was willing to do the job (clue #1) gave me a price of $500 after moaning what a bastard it was. I priced the pump at NAPA and it was like $30. WTF? Heck, I'm actually a professional mechanic with lots of tools (never did this job tho (clue #2)) so I'll do it myself.

Well, 6 weeks, 8 exhaust valves and a new battery later, I was back on the road. $500 was a bargain.

Moral of the story: Buy a service manual before you start, factory if available. It's not merely good insurance, it's guaranteed to prevent some mishap or another. If you read the manual and decide not to do the job, you're a huge winner.


Well, I did get to have the head ported while it was off so it wasn't a total loss.  :shruggy:

As a professional mechanic for the past 15 years, I can tell you that that job is a bear to do correctly. I've had to replace a few of these engines when the "Guy they know is good with cars" tried to replace it himself and bent all the valves. Rule of thumb, DOHC engines are very tricky to get right if you don't do them everyday. One wrong move and it's over.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Silver R/T

One shop wants $800 (that's with "discount" cause owner is a brother of co-worker) I don't think I'll be going that route.
Another shop would do it for $505+tax
Then I was suggested another mechanic who does work on a side and he said he'd do it for $230. Apparently he gets parts cheap cause he works for big shop and gets discounts. I think I'm going with the last guy.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

Arthu®

Quote from: Cooter on September 23, 2009, 11:58:24 PM
Quote from: elacruze on September 17, 2009, 10:20:01 PM
I have a '96 Pontiac Sunfire with the 2.4L twin cam. It needed a water pump, and the only shop in town that was willing to do the job (clue #1) gave me a price of $500 after moaning what a bastard it was. I priced the pump at NAPA and it was like $30. WTF? Heck, I'm actually a professional mechanic with lots of tools (never did this job tho (clue #2)) so I'll do it myself.

Well, 6 weeks, 8 exhaust valves and a new battery later, I was back on the road. $500 was a bargain.

Moral of the story: Buy a service manual before you start, factory if available. It's not merely good insurance, it's guaranteed to prevent some mishap or another. If you read the manual and decide not to do the job, you're a huge winner.


Well, I did get to have the head ported while it was off so it wasn't a total loss.  :shruggy:

As a professional mechanic for the past 15 years, I can tell you that that job is a bear to do correctly. I've had to replace a few of these engines when the "Guy they know is good with cars" tried to replace it himself and bent all the valves. Rule of thumb, DOHC engines are very tricky to get right if you don't do them everyday. One wrong move and it's over.

Really it is just all about paying attention and common sense. Mark everything, if you are not sure even take pictures, you have all the time in the world. It's not rocket science, I have done quite a few over the years and I don't work on cars every day. However you just must feel up to the job, it is a job that if you screw up it is going to cost big bucks. Also my experience with special tools is that from a variety of 5 buck discount tools you get at any hardware store you can easily create something that works.

Arthur
Striving for world domination since 1986

ipstrategies

I did wife's LHS 3.5 and not bad because the engine is not sideways. My brother is the mechanic and gave me some direction.
1971 Dodge Charger SE 383 Magnum
1999 Dodge Durango 5.9
1995 Chrysler LHS

Cooter

Quote from: ipstrategies on September 24, 2009, 07:16:27 PM
I did wife's LHS 3.5 and not bad because the engine is not sideways. My brother is the mechanic and gave me some direction.

Just be thankful it wasn't the 2.7 with the Timing chain driven water pump.....Those are really fun with the cam sensor that is VERY touchy about being PERFECTLY in time, or the Check Engine light will be on.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Silver R/T

Quote from: Cooter on September 24, 2009, 07:34:12 PM
Quote from: ipstrategies on September 24, 2009, 07:16:27 PM
I did wife's LHS 3.5 and not bad because the engine is not sideways. My brother is the mechanic and gave me some direction.

Just be thankful it wasn't the 2.7 with the Timing chain driven water pump.....Those are really fun with the cam sensor that is VERY touchy about being PERFECTLY in time, or the Check Engine light will be on.

If it's timing chain why do you need to replace it in the first place?
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

dpm68

Perhaps he meant timing BELT. But if he didn't, then, timing chains DO stretch out and get the notion to jump.

Silver R/T

Quote from: dpm68 on September 25, 2009, 01:00:16 AM
Perhaps he meant timing BELT. But if he didn't, then, timing chains DO stretch out and get the notion to jump.

ya but they last much longer than timing belts do and usually people get rid of the car before timing chain needs to be changed
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

ipstrategies

Only 3.5s v6s  for me. Sister had a 2.7 nothing but problems (time she bought new until she sold it) brother in-law tried to get the 3.2 upgrade which would have been the better choice. 3.5 in LHS has been good so far, daughter has 300m 3.5 with 170,000 been ok.

1971 Dodge Charger SE 383 Magnum
1999 Dodge Durango 5.9
1995 Chrysler LHS

Silver R/T

Ended up paying $240 which is not bad for parts and labor by a mechanic. You have to have high skills to work on car like that with so much stuffed into engine bay.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

derailed

Sounds like you got a damn good deal on that job.